/ 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR 
IN A MOTOR 



Digitized by the Internet Archive 
in 2011 with funding from 
The Library of Congress 



http://www.archive.org/details/womansworldtouriOOfish 



..Jjjfrs. 





H. H., THE MAHAKAJA OF BENARES 

Page 146 



A WOMAN'S 

WORLD TOUR IN 

A MOTOR 



By 



HARRIET WHITE FISHER 



WITH 70 ILLUSTRATIONS 




PHILADELPHIA & LONDON 

J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY 

1911 






COPYRIGHT, 191 I, BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY 



PUBLISHED NOVEMBER, I9II 



PRINTED BY J. B- LIPPINCOTT COMPANY 

AT THE WASHINGTON SQUARE PRESS 

PHILADELPHIA, U. S. A. 



^ 



'©CLA300611 



To My Friend 
MRS. ISAAC DUDLEY FLETCHER 

I DEDICATE THIS ACCOUNT OF MY TRIP 
AROUND THE WORLD IN AN AUTOMO- 
BILE, IN MEMORY OF THE PLEASANT 
JOURNEYS WE HAVE HAD TOGETHER 




UNDER ORIENT SKIES 



PREFACE 



IN presenting this book, I make a direct appeal 
to my readers. Many and elaborate works of 
travel are already at the disposal of the read- 
ing public ; but it may be that 1 have a story to tell 
which will engage the interest of folk who care for 
the unusual, the romantic, the practical and the ad- 
venturous. I expect no favors from flippant re- 
viewers of the sort whose aim is to appear smart — 
often at the expense of truthfulness, and always 
at the expense of gentleness. From readers gen- 
erally, I crave the same consideration which I shall 
give to them in the following pages. If I tell my 
story fairly, accurately, without exaggeration, and 
win the attention of readers whose humanity and 
interest in all things human I count one with my 
own, I shall be happy. 

It is perfectly true that I run an anvil and vise 
factory in Trenton, New Jersey. Except for the 
yearly vacation customarily spent in my villa at 

7 



PREFACE 

Lake Como, Italy, nothing else so consistently 
engages my time and energy. In the book which I 
now offer to the public I have only the plain unvar- 
nished tale to tell of my trip around the world in a 
motor-car; the trip of a woman who had grown a 
little weary of the details of a useful but somewhat 
heavy business, and sought recreation under India's 
burning sun, in Ceylon, China, Japan, in many 
places where no motor-car had ever taken man or 
woman before. 

Never have I cared inordinately for a display 
of frills. In a recent journey to the western part 
of these United States, which, unfortunately, I was 
obliged to make by train instead of motor, I encoun- 
tered at a number of hotels a peculiar sort of dimin- 
utive apron — a cross between a dress-shield and a 
chrysanthemum, in appearance. It was affixed to 
all waitresses in the hotel dining-room, and was a 
truly frilly article. After many days I confessed 
my curiosity to a head waitress. 

" Them? Oh, them! Why, cer'nly, ma'am; 
them is th' apron that's the' o-fficial badge of th' 
Waitresses' Union! We all wears 'em." 

I fear I have no membership in the Authors' 
Union. I cannot flaunt the Literary Frill. I can 
only try unpretentiously to give you a true account 
of the things which seemed to me remarkable in the 
course of thirteen months' motoring which I en- 
joyed with my loyal little party — including my 
Devoted Dog. 



PREFACE 

More than six hundred letters, received from all 
parts of the world since the completion of my trip, 
have led me to believe that these enthusiastic in- 
quirers would like to see their questions answered 
at length. Motorists, generally, will perhaps also 
be interested. 

A number of letters were from people who 
wanted to know the total cost of the trip; how I 
had crated my car; how man} 7 different parts I had 
carried to make necessary repairs; the condition of 
the roads; where and how to obtain gasoline; how 
we did our cooking — all of which are answered in 
the book, except the cost. That, of course, depends 
entirely upon how one travels, and what one wishes 
to spend. 

A wealthy woman in California wrote, asking if 
there had been published any account of the cooking 
utensils, sleeping accommodations, etc., carried on 
my car ; if the people were courteous ; if I had met 
with any disagreeable adventures in the way of 
impertinence from people who disliked motor-cars. 
She said that it was her ideal way of travelling, but 
that she had not dared think of it until she had read 
an account of my trip in the papers. 

I feel that I shall be justified in contributing 
what I can to the sum total of knowledge as to the 
possibilities of the modern motor-car. I shall be as 
practical and as plain as possible. 

When one from the Western world visits the 
strange scenes of the Far East, there is very much 

9 



PREFACE 

more to be noted than mere guide-book details. 
There is indeed much more to be felt. The mind, 
as well as the eye, is entranced. The mystic quality 
of India — that wonderful magic of atmosphere and 
antiquity — is impressive. It is none the less impres- 
sive with a motor-car as means of transportation. 

The strangely mingled beauties and horrors of 
the land, the pathos of human life and suffering, 
the oddities of custom, and the marvels of Oriental 
grandeur — these may not be described adequately 
by pen, much less by mine. But I have much to tell 
you of adventure, and not a little about the human 
beings, high and low, who made my world tour a 
memorable experience. 

Harriet White Fisher. 

Trenton, New Jersey, May 1, 1911 



CONTENTS 

CHAPTER PAGE 

I. The Start and the Car 15 

II. Good-by to Paris 24 

III. The Caution of the Swiss 31 

IV. Beautiful Como 39 

V. Toward the Far East 52 

VI. Bombay and Honk-Honk 61 

VII. Across India in a Motor-Car 71 

VIII. Banquet at Gwalior — On to Agra 87 

IX. Historic Delhi 99 

X. The Grandeur of an Oriental Home Ill 

XI. The Sacred Ganges 128 

XII. His Highness the Maharaja of Benares 139 

XIII. Under India's Burning Sun 151 

XIV. A Narrow Escape from Brigands 165 

XV. Missionaries, Goats, and Opium 173 

XVI. Calcutta's Hospitable Reception 185 

XVII. Wonderful Little Ceylon 204 

XVIII. From Colombo to Shanghai 221 

XIX. Japan 236 

XX. The Mikado's Palace 25 1 

XXI. An Exciting Time in the Fugi Rapids 271 

XXII. Camping Close to Death 284 

XXIII. Hospitality of The Princess Ito 291 

XXIV. Yokohama to Honolulu 305 

XXV. American Soil Again 311 

XXVI. Rough Roads and Tough Hotels 317 

XXVII. The Irresponsible Mr. McBluff 334 

XXVIII. Mr. Ketchum, of Sandusky, Ohio 342 

XXIX. A Royal Welcome Home 352 

Appendex. Foreign Touring 359 



11 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE L- 

H. H., The Maharaja of Benares Frontispiece 

In Bengal Title Page 

Under Orient Skies 7 

The Horn 15 

Ready for the Start, Trenton 17 

The Trial of tHe Tent in Place Vendome, Paris 22 

Our First Hold-up 24 

Mrs. Fisher's Car in France Receiving Prize 27 

The Devil's Bridge 31 

Villa Raimondi ' 39 

Villa Carlotta 40 

Our Friends at Villa Trotti 42 

The Gardens at Villa Trotti 43 

The Sister-in-law of Bismarck in Her Car 47 

Casa Brocca, Magenta 50 

On the Banks of the Nile 52 

Returning from the "Feast of the Dead," Cairo 58 

The Car Arriving at Bombay 61 

Held Up for Toll 64 

In the Caves of Karli 66 

A Bullock Cart 71 

Chattie Bottle and Bowl 75 

Through the Sand at Tapti River 77 

Ferrying the Car at Ghambal River 87 

The Pearl Mosque, Agra 93 

The Monument at Cawnpore 99 

The Palace, Delhi 103 

Judge Nehru's Home at Allahabad Ill 

We Ride the Elephant to the Ganges 128 

One of the Sights at the Ganges 131 

A Fanatic at the Ganges 133 

Mrs. Fisher and Judge Nehru's Daughters in Hindu Dress 137 

In the Maharaja of Benares' Dandie 139 

The Princess Indraraja of Baroda, India 140 

13 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

Benares 141 

At the Residence of His Highness of Benares 146 

Pig-sticker Invented by His Highness of Benares 149 

Getting Ready to Cross the Sone River 151 

The Burning Ghats, Benares, India 153 

The Bathing Ghats, Benares, India 157 

An East Indian Road 165 

Major Agabeg in His 15 h. p. Humber 173 

A Portion of Major Agabeg's Grounds 181 

Figurines of East Indian Castes 185 

Our Calcutta Friends — Mr. Jenkins in Centre 188 

Darjeeling, India 191 

Bathing the Elephants, Ceylon 204 

A Crossing in Ceylon 208 

"Billikins," the Monkey 221 

The Willow Pattern Bungalow, Shanghai 229 

The Inland Sea of Japan 236 

Billikins at Home 245 

At Nagoya 251 

A Japanese Crowd 252 

Nara 261 

H. H. the Maharaja of Baroda 267 

The Landing, Fugi River 271 

Camp "Death" 284 

Honkie to the Fore 291 

With a Literary Man of Japan 301 

The Crated Car at Yokohama. 305 

After the Farewell Luncheon with the Princess of Baroda 311 

Hot Creek Ranch 317 

A Mid-day Rest in California 320 

On the American Desert 326 

The Mormon Temple, Salt Lake City 331 

In Medicine Bow 334 

At Sandusky 342 

At La Salle Hotel, Chicago 345 

The Triumphant Car : 352 



THE HORN 



I 

THE START AND THE CAR 

ALL our lives are made up of the adventures, 
great and small, which mark the years and 
leave memories. The humdrum of life is not 
necessarily its dross, and should not be. It is the 
uniform, even tenor of our ordinary days, which 
far outnumber the extraordinary ones, that gives 
appetite and zest for adventure and pleasure, and 
makes the greater delights possible. I shall not 
forget the happiness of anticipation, nor the joy 
of preparing for the long trip I had determined 
to take — a trip almost literall} 7 around the world 
in a motor-car. I was to use a forty-horse-power 
Locomobile stock roadster, the only extras being 
a large gasoline-tank under the rear seat, and a 
larger oil-tank than ordinarily used. A few 
duplicate parts were added, and on April 29, 1909, 
I started out for a trial trip, going as far as 
Cleveland, Ohio, by way of Baltimore, Washing- 
ton, Pittsburg and Youngstown, returning by way 
of Erie, Buffalo, and the Catskills, to New York. 

15 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

The chief excitement of this trip was the crossing 
of the Susquehanna River from Perryville to 
Havre de Grace. This was accomplished by means 
of a little ferry-boat propelled by a small gasoline 
engine. There was a gale blowing, and it was only 
by constant coaxing that the engine was induced to 
take us sufficiently near the shore to enable the 
boatman to throw a line to the crowd which had 
gathered on the bank, attracted, no doubt, by the 
antics of the ferry-boat in midstream. We thought 
this quite an experience at the time, but we were to 
meet far more exciting and hair-raising adventures, 
and far greater perils, in our trip around the world. 

I felt grieved to see the magnificent forests of 
the Alleghany and Laurel Hill mountains disap- 
pearing. You can mark the path of the portable 
saw-mills, stretching in every direction, and leaving 
the mountains as bare of timber as I afterward 
found the rocks and hills in India. Here and there 
were great piles of sawdust, showing where the 
monarchs of the forest had been offered up for 
commercial purposes. Forest fires have also de- 
stroyed much of the timber. We were able to find 
now and then on the mountain-side a bubbling 
spring, where we could rest and make our tea. The 
water, at least, had not yet been confiscated by man. 
This trial trip was a success, and proved that 
my car was satisfactory; so I began to arrange for 
the shipping of it, and attend to the many details 
necessary for a long absence from home. 

16 



THE START AND THE CAR 

Friends gave a luncheon for me at the Auto- 
mobile Club in New York City, and wished me 
bon voyage. 

I had decided to ship my car by express, and 
to take only three triptyques, one for France, one 
for Switzerland, and one for Italy. Making this 
outlay for triptyques means tying up a large sum 




READY FOR THE START, TRENTON 



of money, and this is not at all necessary, for by 
applying for your triptyque before entering a coun- 
try, and getting it cashed upon leaving the frontier, 
there is a great saving. 

After all preparation possible to secure the 
safety of my car in transportation, it was run from 
Trenton, New Jersey, to New York, and finally 
packed into a large crate, like an immense drygoods 

17 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

box, and shipped to Paris by express to await my 
arrival. 

I sailed on the New York on Saturday, July 17, 
1909, bound for Cherbourg. My party for this 
world tour consisted of Mr. Harold Fisher Brooks, 
who acted as my chauffeur; Albert, an English 
servant who can cook a good dinner or write a busi- 
ness letter; and Maria, my Italian maid, typical of 
her country, always bright, cheerful, and sunny. 

Arriving in Paris, we found that our car had 
arrived and would be unpacked as soon as the 
customs officers had checked it off. When this was 
done, we were notified that the car would have to 
be taken before the Engineer of Mines for exami- 
nation, and that Mr. Brooks would have to present 
a photograph of himself and one of the car. A 
photograph of the car and one of its driver must 
always be attached to the triptyques, one for each 
country you intend to visit. 

Three days after our arrival, we received notice 
from the department of police, making an appoint- 
ment for eleven o'clock that morning, for Mr. 
Brooks to take the car and give a sample of his 
driving. 

Imagine what excitement I felt in finding 
myself seated in my own car, rolling through the 
streets of Paris, that same old Paris that I had 
visited so many times in previous years in the ordi- 
nary way, depending upon that very necessary evil, 
the cabby, as a means of locomotion, with his never- 



THE START AND THE CAR 

failing squabble over the amount of his pourboire 
at the end of the journey. 

However, my pleasure was brought to a sudden 
end by a policeman coming up and shaking his fist 
at us. None of us understood French very well, 
and especially French spoken in such violent tones, 
so we were at a loss to comprehend what the trouble 
was about, until by his gesticulations we discovered 
that he was pointing to the smoke coming from the 
exhaust. The car having been many days exposed 
to the salt air, Mr. Brooks had put in an extra 
quantity of oil, and this we had no chance of burning 
off before we started. The hour of our engagement 
with the Engineer of Mines was at hand, and we 
still had some distance to go; but that policeman 
would neither let us go on nor stand still and burn 
off the oil. A crowd having gathered around, how- 
ever, he became occupied with them, and we turned 
a sharp corner and were lost to his view in our own 
smoke. We reached our destination in time to keep 
our appointment, and when in front of the office of 
the Engineer, we let the engine out and burned off 
oil until things looked clearer. 

A serious-looking man in uniform examined our 
car. The numbers were compared, he looked at 
the engine closely, nodded with a look of approval, 
and then intimated in broken English that he would 
take a drive. So we started off, he directing us 
through the most crowded parts and thoroughfares 
of Paris, across the Seine and around the Bon 

19 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

Marche, turning in and out among the traffic and 
around corners, in fact, taking quite a nice little 
drive, then directing us back again to the office. 
Upon our return, he expressed his approbation and 
admiration of our machine, at the same time giving 
us our numbers, and saying that in two or three 
days we would get our permit. 

We started off rejoicing, feeling that we had 
done our duty, when lo and behold, we found our- 
selves on the same corner with our old friend the 
policeman, who still discovered a small trail of his 
specialty coming from the exhaust. He appeared 
more violent than ever, although we tried to explain 
that we had been all around the city and no one had 
stopped us; but it had no effect upon him, and, 
seeing that matters were getting desperate, I 
pointed to the American flag that was floating from 
our dashboard, and shook my fist at him. At this 
he shrugged his shoulders and turned his back, and 
we went on our way. 

We were to have another shock before long. 
Thinking to take a drive around the Bois de Bou- 
logne, we passed through some gates, and two men 
came rushing after us. Then I remembered that 
we were outside the city, and had passed an octroi 
without stopping to get our gasoline measured and 
receive a receipt. Outside of Paris you can buy 
gasoline, or petrol, as it is called in France, for a 
few centimes less than you can inside the gates, so 
you must have the petrol measured both going out 

20 



THE START AND THE CAR 

and returning, and on your return you must have 
a little less than when you went out — it does not 
seem to make any difference how little, but it must 
be less than you took with you. Otherwise, you are 
obliged to pay a tax and a fine, and may possibly 
be delayed two or three hours. 

That day we started on a shopping expedition 
for a camping outfit suitable for our future needs. 
We found Vuitton, of the Rue Scribe, helpful with 
suggestions, and ready to carry out my idea for the 
tent, which was to combine capacity with lightness 
and strength, and at the same time be rain-proof. 
He also directed us to an army supply house, where 
we found pneumatic sleeping-bags, lined with flan- 
nel. These folded into a very small space. Water 
canteens were procured, and the indispensable 
thermos bottle, without which we should have fared 
badly. 

When we had been in Paris five days, I had 
learned more about the city, its streets, and its many 
interesting suburbs, than I had known in previous 
years after visits of w r eeks at a time. To be in Paris 
is always a pleasure; but it is bliss indeed to glide 
along the beautiful streets, to be able to visit Fon- 
tainebleau and the many places of interest about 
Paris, in your own car, at your own time and pleas- 
ure — not feeling that you must hurry or you will be 
left, or that you must be crowded into trolley-cars 
and pushed and jostled. 

Before leaving Paris, I wished to see my tent 

21 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

put up. This would mean a loss of several hours 
if we had to go out into the country, so, gaining the 
consent of a policeman on the corner of the Place 
Vendome, my tent was erected there. It was 
evidently the first time anything of this kind had 
been seen in this wonderful old place that had wit- 
nessed such frightful scenes during the Revolution, 




THE TRIAL OF THE TENT IN PLACE VENDOME, PARIS 



for this little experiment attracted multitudes of 
people, nearly frightening me out of my desire to 
see my tent erected anywhere except in a wilder- 
ness. 

When we finally loaded up the car, our equip- 
ment consisted of two small steamer trunks, a hat- 
box which was fastened in our front extra tire, an 
extra tool box which could also be used as a seat 

22 



THE START AND THE CAR 

for a guide or any extra person, a canvas bag fitted 
up with a lock and key, a laundry bag, a waterproof 
sack for our beds, and an extension cot which was 
folded up and put on our bumper in front to give 
all the room possible. We also took our rope, which 
we hoped never to have to use, but which we were 
very glad to have later on. This we wound around 
the front of the bumper, fastening the cot to that, 
and making it look like a large umbrella-case. This 
also helped distribute the weight of the car. Inside 
we carried rugs suitable for the time of year, toilet 
articles, two suit-cases, one for each of the men of 
our party, another waterproof bag for sheets, 
pillow-cases, and my two pillows, which are small, 
but without which I never travel, and have always 
found a great comfort. 

There was little room left in the car after we 
had taken our seats. Honk-Honk, a Boston bull- 
terrier, which had been presented to me as a mascot 
before leaving America, was an important pas- 
senger. I had been told that his existence would be 
cut very short, for no dog had ever been around the 
world in an automobile before. Indeed, we were 
warned that we would have difficulty in getting him 
into the different countries. I decided to take the 
risk, however, and Honk-Honk as well. 





OUB FJRsr HOLD-UP 



II 

GOOD-BY TO PARIS 

WHEN once we were on our way to Con- 
trexeville, it was like a continuous trip 
through a beautiful park. The trees line 
both sides of the road, and for miles and miles 
ahead you can see a clear road before you, with 
the exception of now and then a cart, or a 
few peasants. One thing that interested me 
greatly was the way the roads were kept in 
constant repair. On each side of the road was a 
pile of stones, piled up evenly and neatly, and you 
would see old men, boys, and even women in some 
cases, breaking them. These stones are brought 
there in their natural shape by employees of the 
road commissioner, and these people break them 

24 



GOOD-BY TO PARIS 

into small pieces. In many instances the workers 
would otherwise be objects of charity; but having 
this to do in their own time, they earn enough to 
keep them in comfort, while the traveller gets the 
benefit of having good, smooth roadways. By each 
pile of stones is a pile of sand, and this also is piled 
up very neatly, so it does not disfigure the roadway 
or interfere with traffic. Every few miles you will 
meet an old man with a two-wheeled cart and horse, 
who will take a shovelful of the stones and a little 
of the sand, and from his water bucket in the cart he 
will mix the two materials and fill up any holes in 
the roadway. To all appearances this acts the same 
as a cement, making a solid concrete road. 

At every corner are sign-posts, so that one is 
always able to tell in what direction to go, and every 
two miles you will find a milestone giving the num- 
ber of miles between villages. In fact, a guide- 
book is hardly necessary if you know the names of 
the places you desire to reach. Always, in the 
smallest villages, you will be able to obtain a decent 
lunch or dinner. As for sleeping, that is a different 
matter, and it is always wise to select a city or a 
good-sized village in which to spend the night, in 
order to find comfortable sleeping quarters. 

It is a pleasure to roll along these beautiful 
roads, turning in and out of the narrow, crooked 
streets, in and through the little French villages, 
where you never fail to see from one to a dozen girls 
and old women with their cushions in front of them, 

25 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

making lace or knitting. After four o'clock you 
will find in these same little villages, sheep or cattle 
huddled together in front of their owner's door, 
sharing, in fact, the same quarters with their mas- 
ters and mistresses. I asked if they did not consider 
this unhealthful, and they smilingly answered, 
' You see grandmama over there? She has lived 
here all her life in this way, and she is now over 
eighty." And a more bonny, sunny, healthy-look- 
ing old face one would never wish to see. 

One of their reasons for having the animals so 
close to them is that they cannot then be stolen, and 
another is that the warmth from their bodies helps 
to keep warm the rooms of the human inhabitants. 

Our first stop was at Troyes, where we spent 
the night. The hotel bill there was forty-one francs, 
which included dinner, lodging, and breakfast for 
four people, and accommodations for my motor. 

We arrived in Contrexeville on August 5th, 
passing through Rouen and Chaumont. Even at 
this time of the year the air was so cool that I was 
obliged to put on two coats and a shawl, and felt 
none too warm. I remained at the Grand Hotel 
d'Etablissement for nearly three weeks, taking the 
cure there. 

From Contrexeville we made several trips, 
visiting different places of interest, among them 
the birthplace of Jeanne d'Arc. One of our trips 
was especially interesting; from Contrexeville to 
Vittel, five kilometres; from Vittel to Mirecourt, 

26 



GOOD-BY TO PARIS 

twenty- three kilometres ; from Mirecourt to Nancy, 
forty-seven kilometres, making seventy-five kilo- 
metres in all. 

The second week we were in Contrexeville 
they gave a fete called a Gymkana. I was invited 
to take part with my motor-car, which invitation I 
accepted, my car being the only American repre- 
sentative among about forty cars of foreign make. 
I was indeed proud when my car took the first prize 
for artistic decoration and graceful manoeuvres in 
this floral fete. One of the tests to which we were 
put was balancing the car on two long planks placed 
upon a raised centre; the one able to balance the 
car the longest received the first premium. Another 
test was for smooth driving. A lady in each car 
carried a glass filled with water. The cars were 
driven over a very rough course, and the one 
bringing in the glass containing the most water at 
the end of the drive received the first prize. This 
premium also I had the pleasure of winning. 

On August 26th we had to say farewell to Con- 
trexeville, and after our different pieces of baggage, 
the tent, etc., were packed on the motor, we started 
for Basle, bearing bunches of roses from our 
friends. We had not proceeded very far on our 
road when we met with our first hold-up. As we 
were passing one of the farm-houses where we had 
enjoyed many pleasant dejeuners, we were sud- 
denly stopped by a line of men and women extend- 
ing across the road. Their faces, however, ex- 

29 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

pressed only merriment and not danger, and we 
soon found ourselves seated at a table spread under 
an apricot tree, with a bountiful lunch before us. 
This surprise had been prepared for us by these 
friends in memory of the many pleasant occasions 
of the same kind that we had before experienced. 
Speeches were made, and bon voyage was drunk in 
the good old wine of the country; and I found a 
large basket had been packed for us containing 
chicken, bread and butter, a plum tart, and good 
French cake. 

At every hotel at which we stopped on the way, 
we were warned about the mischievous children, and 
were told to be sure and carry a long whip with us, 
so as to keep order in the small towns and villages 
through which we were to pass. We did not arm 
ourselves with this whip, however, and I am happy 
to say we met with no accidents. Neither did we 
cause any. On the contrary, I would greet the 
people with " Gutentag " as we passed them, and 
the peasants would doff their hats, while the chil- 
dren threw little bunches of wild flowers into the 
car. 




THE DEVIL S BRIDGE 



o 



III 

THE CAUTION OF THE SWISS 

X arriving at Luzerne, bound for Bru- 
ennen, we learned that there were only 
certain hours in which motorists could 
take the drive winding about the lake of Luzerne 
to Bruennen. These strict rules were made be- 
cause motorists used to frighten horses and pedes- 
trians, and so made it unsafe for them to use the 
road. The pedestrians and teamsters now take 
the risk themselves if they venture out on this road 
between five and ten o'clock in the morning, as 
these hours are given over to the motor-cars. 

I would suggest to motorists that instead of 
going directly through to Goschenen, they stop and 
have dejeuner at any of the beautiful little spots on 
the shores of Lake Luzerne between Bruennen and 
Goschenen, and then go on later in the afternoon, 

31 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

reaching Goschenen in time to go through the pass 
up St. Gothard, as here again the motors are held 
up, and are permitted to go through the gates only 
between the hours of five and seven in the afternoon. 
Only one car at a time is permitted to pass through 
the gate at this station, having to follow on behind 
coaches, baggage-wagons, or any teams that choose 
to go ahead. On account of the narrow and dan- 
gerous road, a motor-car is never allowed to pass 
any of these teams. 

I suspect the thrifty Swiss have more than one 
idea in making these rules, for we were informed 
that we could go up at any time by having horses 
pull our car up the mountain, and that we could 
engage the horses necessary to do this for about 
fifty marks, or ten dollars. This price in itself does 
not seem much for the use of four horses ; but it is 
a strain on the car, and it also takes away a bit of 
the pride of the motorist to see horses doing what 
he knows he can accomplish with his own engine. 

After every coach and cart has started up the 
mountain, giving them fifteen minutes' start, a 
guard makes his appearance, and, after paying fifty 
cents toll, you receive a ticket. On this ticket is 
marked the time you leave the foot of the mountain, 
and when you pass through the gate at the top the 
time is again punched on the ticket, so there is no 
chance of escape. Three-quarters of an hour is 
allowed each motor-car to make the trip up through 
the pass, over the Devil's Bridge, to very nearly the 

32 



THE CAUTION OF THE SWISS 

top of the mountain. If you arrive at the top five 
minutes ahead of this time, you are fined for trav- 
elling too fast; if you arrive five minutes behind, 
you are also fined. These rules seem to me rather 
ridiculous, but I presume the Swiss know their 
business, and it is wiser to be over-careful than to 
be reckless. 

Having made the trip direct through Luzerne 
and on to Goschenen, we here had dinner, then 
walked around admiring the snow-capped moun- 
tains, and the water dashing through the ravine and 
over the rocks. We picked a number of wild flow- 
ers, and then cranked up our machine and started 
around to get in line and be the first to go through 
the pass. As we drew up in front of the gate at the 
foot of the pass, however, a fine-looking Swiss 
guard came out and said in German: ' Why are 
you here so early? Don't you know you can only 
leave here at five o'clock, and it is now fifteen 
minutes to five? " I replied: " Well, yes, I know 
we are early; but I heard there was a handsome- 
looking officer up here, and I thought I would 
prefer to sit and look at him for awhile rather than 
wait at the hotel." 

This I said in German, and he smiled, braced 
back his shoulders, and pulled down his uniform 
coat ; and he certainly was a good-looking man ! I 
then began a conversation as to why these rules were 
made, and asked if it would not be better to let the 
motor-cars go ahead of the carts, and let them take 
s 33 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

as much time as they desired. He shrugged his 
shoulders, and replied: " Well, I do not make the 
laws. I am simply here as a paid servant to see 
that they are obeyed, and there would not be much 
misunderstanding with the carts and the motors if 
people only understood the language. But I am 
not paid enough to learn all the languages of the 
motorists that go along here. We have French, 
English, and Americans. If the Americans would 
only speak English, and not attempt German, it 
would not be so hard; but they do not understand 
me, and I do not understand them, and conse- 
quently, we both get as mad as the devil! " 

He was very much interested in my car, seeing 
it so heavily loaded. I explained to him that this 
was the beginning of a trip around the world, and 
he opened his eyes wide. This intelligent-looking 
man had never been outside of his own country, and 
to think of a woman making a trip around the 
world was something beyond his comprehension. 
He remarked that he would like to go with us, but 
did not understand these machines. He admitted 
that he was afraid of them, and had never even had 
a ride in one. I immediately suggested that if he 
had the time, he should jump in the car and take 
a ride up to the top of the pass. He looked at me 
and said, " Do you mean it? Will that car take me, 
too?" I replied that I did mean it, and that the 
car would surely carry him as well as the rest of 
the load. 

34 



THE CAUTION OF THE SWISS 

When I explained to Mr. Brooks what I had 
offered to do, he looked very black and asked what 
I thought the car could do; but I insisted that if 
the car could not do all I wanted of it, I would leave 
it ; so there was nothing for him to do but to give the 
engine more oil, and you never saw a slow-moving 
person get such life and motion in a short time as 
did this officer at the thought of having a trip on a 
motor-car up the St. Gothard pass. He imme- 
diately closed up business — one other car arriving 
just in time to get through. He was so excited 
that he did not even give me a ticket, and he told 
every one in the neighborhood where he was going. 
We started out, and he called out to the coaches 
that had preceded us : " Get out of the way. Here's 
a lady of great consequence. Make way there!" 
And when they saw the Chief of Police (for such 
he proved to be ) on my car, they did make way, and 
the drivers doffed their hats. One unfortunate 
man, not recognizing the tone of command from 
this great man, did not pay attention as soon as the 
Chief thought he should; and he called out to him, 
and wrote his name down, and I fear the poor man 
had to pay a fine when he reached the gate, for he 
was reported with great dignity as having dared 
disobey the commands to get out of the way. 

The Chief was greatly interested in the drive, 
and gave us directions in regard to the sharp turns, 
so as to give us plenty of room. As we passed the 
mountain falls, going over the Devil's Bridge, the 

35 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

roar of the water made such a noise one could 
scarcely hear one's own voice. The scenery on 
every hand was striking as the car climbed upward, 
puffing a little, it is true, but doing the work finely. 
I shall never forget our view of the setting sun 
over this mass of white-capped mountains. The 
black rocks standing out seemed to say, " Who 
dares trespass here? " 

The j3easants were surprised to see their chief 
officer, and he informed me that once every six 
months he went up this mountain to get reports, 
but that he did it on foot. Our Swiss friend not 
only guided us up the mountain safely, but escorted 
us to a friendly Swiss hotel, where, he told us, they 
had not yet learned the charges to which Americans 
usually are subjected. I found this hotel was kept 
by a German widow, and she immediately pro- 
ceeded to make us comfortable, the buxom Swiss 
maids coming out and tackling our trunks as 
though they were baskets of cabbages. 

Upon entering my room, a crackling fire greeted 
me, which was welcome, for at this height the 
thickest fur coat is none too warm. A cover for the 
motor was also found, and we were soon seated at 
table, enjoying roast chicken with all accessories, 
and with a delicious omelet for dessert. Our Swiss 
guide had informed me that the prices at this hotel 
would be far less than at some of the other places, 
and I was astonished at the bill. I inquired why it 
was that they charged four dollars for one chicken, 

36 



THE CAUTION OF THE SWISS 

and the head waiter replied, " Madame, these 
chickens all come from Paris, and they have to be 
hauled up the mountain by horses." 

" Do you mean to tell me that you do not raise 
chickens up here, with all this lovely green grass? " 
I inquired. We were soon informed that the sea- 
sons were very short up there, and that chickens 
would not live; that only dead chickens were car- 
ried up there. I must add that I did not see a live 
chicken while on the top of the mountain. We went 
up so high that all vegetation ceased, with the 
exception of gray moss and Alpine roses. Nothing 
but black rocks met our view. 

In this hotel we found many guests, some of 
whom said they had walked all the way from 
Luzerne. The road leading up from Luzerne to 
St. Gothard is decidedly narrow, but for many 
hundred years the German tourist, the English, and 
in fact all nationalities have been in the habit of 
taking this walk. Lovers of nature and adventure 
will find a grand opportunity here to test their 
walking and climbing abilities ; and it is an outrage 
for a motor-car to pass these people without show- 
ing any regard for their comfort or safety. Timid 
women will cling to the sides of the rocks, or will 
rush madly into dangerous spots, not realizing that 
these snorting, monstrous-looking things can be 
stopped within a foot of them if necessary. I shall 
not soon forget some of the smiling acknowledg- 
ments we received as we stopped our car or turned 

37 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

out in order to save a young lady's pretty gown 
from being spattered with mud or covered with 
dust. 

After a refreshing night's sleep under a tremen- 
dous feather-bed — which felt mighty good in the 
early morning hours — we were up, had our coffee, 
and started through the Swiss mountains, passing 
through Fliielen, down to Lake Maggiore, then 
around to Lago Lugano, and on to Como. 

Going down the mountain was even finer than 
going up. However, there are many sharp turns to 
be made, and one wants to feel absolute^ sure of 
the brakes. There was a pouring rain when we 
started down, and the sun came out only once or 
twice, but we kept dry and comfortable. 




VILLA RAIMONDI 

IV 
BEAUTIFUL COMO 

A S we came near the Italian border, we gave up 
A\ our Swiss triptyque and presented our Ital- 
ian one. We had no trouble whatever here, 
as we were able to speak the language. Upon 
being informed that this was the beginning of a trip 
around the world, the whole custom-house force, 
consisting of about ten men, came out to take a 
look at the car. 

In less than an hour after passing the border, I 
was blowing my automobile horn on one of the most 
delightful roads in the whole world, winding around 
the foot of the mountains at Lake Como, with the 
sun shining, and the lake welcoming us with rip- 
pling smiles. This road has been under construc- 
tion for over twenty years, and motorists will be 

39 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

glad to know that one can drive now from Como 
direct to Cadenabbia on one of the most beautiful 
drives possible, winding in and out, through Cer- 
nobbio and Argegno, and getting fine views of Isola 
Comacina. 

Arriving at my Villa Carlotta, where the ser- 
vants welcomed me in approved Italian fashion, I 




VILLA CARLOTTA 



found my rooms all in order for my reception, and 
in less than ten minutes after our arrival a delicious 
breakfast was served in a little arbor of green mag- 
nolias, my birds singing, and Honk-Honk at once 
assuming proprietorship, and investigating every 
nook and corner. A look of horror mantled the 

40 



BEAUTIFUL COMO 

face of Gulio, the gardener, as he saw my American 
dog tearing about with no respect for borders or 
delicate leaves of begonias. It became necessary 
to chastise Honk-Honk with a small riding whip. 
In our gardens in Italy, the gravel walks are swept 
and the grass combed daily. It is not the kind of 
grass we see in America, but a very velvety green 
grass with long thin blades, called Japanese. 

Friends were much interested in the car and in 
the anticipated trip around the world; however, 
they all shook their heads and said that I did not 
know what was before me — which I freely acknowl- 
edged. I settled down for a while to the enjoyment 
of my villa and the numerous trips about Lake 
Como. One of these trips was to Geregazza, Villa 
Reina. 

It is a pleasure to know the intimate Italian 
home life, as it exists in villa and palace. I have 
heard many people complain of the high walls which 
prevented their seeing the interior of the grounds 
and the homes as they motored along the road, and 
for that reason I appreciate the privilege of having 
been behind those walls, and I should like to say 
something about that home life. 

Every one of these old places, palaces and villas, 
has a history. Chief among interesting friends are 
the Marquese and Marquesa Trotti, who have not 
only one, but three or four beautiful homes, one of 
them being the historical Villa Pliniana, where the 
mother of the Marquesa, the Princess Christina 

41 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

Belgiojoso, lived during the middle of the nine- 
teenth century, and proved herself one of the most 
devoted partisans for Italian unity. All through 
those dark days of desperate effort, and hope 
deferred, she showed her sympatlry with the aspira- 
tions of her countrymen. She was undaunted and 
fearless in resisting any enemies to Italy. The 
Marchese and Marchesa Trotti have both passed the 




OUR FRIENDS AT VILLA TROTTI 



three-score and ten milestone, but their hospitality, 
and the air of " at homeness " with which they sur- 
round their guests, is simple and charming. They 
are lovers of nature, and to wander about with them 
in their beautiful home, the Villa Trotti, on Lago di 
Como, and hear them describe how they had planted 
this tree on their wedding day, how together they 
had laid out and planned the beautiful gardens, is a 
privilege. 

42 



BEAUTIFUL COMO 

Nearly always one will find one or two daugh- 
ters and several granddaughters on their annual 
visits, taking turns, so as not to overcrowd the 
beautiful old villa, although it contains more than 
fifty rooms. This villa was built in the seventeenth 




THE GARDENS AT VILLA TROTTI 



century. It is a charming sight to see the Marchesa 
knitting and crocheting little garments to be worn 
by the smaller members of her large peasant family, 
for she looks on the peasants on her estate as part 
of her family cares. I have never heard in that 

43 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

house an unkind criticism, or a remark that could 
wound the most sensitive. Their admiration of 
America and the Americans is marked. 

Then, too, in their country place, Guelo, high 
up in the mountains, the Marchesa's landscape gar- 
dening shows to the very best advantage. Long 
vistas of green, with magnificent trees grouped here 
and there, give a restful view to the eye, and the 
effect is most picturesque. There during the sum- 
mer months their daughter, the Countess Sala, 
remains and entertains. 

I visited, too, the Countess Zucchini Solimey in 
her father's old palace, La Gazzada, and the Villa 
Cagnola, where we drank tea and looked out over 
the delightful landscape spread before us. Here 
and there one can obtain a glimpse of the lake, 
looking like a bit of turquoise set in living green. 
The softness of the air, and the always kindly hos- 
pitality in that beautiful home, makes one feel that 
life is worth living. 

Another most interesting villa in which to spend 
an afternoon is the Villa Melzi. The Duchess rep- 
resents one of the old type of grandes dames. Her 
lively interest in all that is new and progressive is 
refreshing. I was much interested in her account 
of her annual trips to her vineyards near Venice, 
where, she informed me, she lives among the peas- 
ants and assumes their costume ; and she assured me 
that this was one of the pleasantest parts of her 
whole summer. 

44 



BEAUTIFUL COMO 

Among those who have beautiful homes must be 
mentioned the Count and Countess Taverna, whose 
palace in Rome is considered one of the finest. To 
have the entree to the Countess's " at homes " is 
almost equal to having admission to visit the Queen. 
The Countess Taverna has turned one of her old 
palaces into a school for teaching young girls lace- 
making, and she herself travels and visits all the 
exhibitions where there is a possibility of getting 
new ideas on this subject. The Countess has also 
engaged some of. the best artists to copy designs 
of old laces in Rome, and these designs are copied 
by the children. At the same time a very careful 
teacher is on hand to read to them and to help them 
improve their minds while their ringers are busy. 
They are given work for which they obtain money, 
and some of their work is certainly dainty and 
tempting. 

I should like to trespass a little further and 
speak of the beautiful home of the Marquesa 
d'Adda, the Villa d'Adda, Arcore. The approach 
to this charming home is through a park, and the 
drive winds in and out of clumps of copper beeches, 
maples, and fir trees. At each turn one gets a view 
of the beautiful house situated on the heights above. 
A more charming hostess or a more beautiful 
woman, one seldom sees, even in Italy. 

Mention is also due the Villa Raimondi, or 
rather Villas, for at one time the Marchesa owned 
seven of the most beautiful on and about Lake 

45 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

Como. It is a pleasure to take luncheon with this 
hostess, to wander with her through her old palace 
and hear her accounts of the history connected with 
each of the rooms. At one time they had a Pope in 
the family, and, judging by his surroundings, he 
must have been a very broad one, and fond of 
worldly pleasures. One of the bedrooms, particu- 
larly, is worthy of description. The walls are hung 
with red silk. The four-posted bedstead is carved 
in gold, with two immense angels holding the 
canopy, and on each side of the bed are prayer- 
stands of the same design. There is a magnificent 
chair, looking more like a throne than a chair. 
Paintings, more than five hundred years old, hang 
on the walls, and there are inlaid tables and chests 
of drawers. Over the doors and around the ceiling 
are beautiful wood carvings. 

While at Lake Como, in September, we made 
up a party and motored down to Brescia, where we 
saw Curtiss's prize-winning flight. The weather 
was very fine and promising for the sport, so we 
decided on going through to Brescia instead of 
stopping the night at Bergamo, as had first been 
our intention. The drive from Lake Como to Ber- 
gamo is one of the most picturesque imaginable, 
hills and lakes alternating. The roads were good, 
although very dusty between Bergamo and Brescia. 

The field for the aeroplane exhibition was situ- 
ated in the vast plain of Monteclairi, twelve and a 
half kilometres distant from the town, and the road 

46 



BEAUTIFUL COMO 

leading to it was covered with vehicles of every kind 
—trolleys, carts, wagons, private carriages, bicycles, 
and motor-cars. Red flags in Brescia and at the 
entrance to the field gave the welcome news that 
there would be flights. After waiting patiently in 
the sun and dust, the spectators were rewarded by 
the sight of Bleriot, who had crossed the English 
channel on July 26th, making two very fine flights 




THE SISTER-IN-LAW OF BISMARCK IN HER CAR 

of two and three kilometres each in his monoplane, 
which looks exactly like a huge dragon-fly. At last 
when all hope of another flight had been given up, 
there was a general stir, and at 5.43 p. m. Mr. Cur- 
tiss's biplane rose lightly and swiftly to a height of 
about thirty metres, which was sustained during 
the whole flight. The suspense of the thousands 
assembled around the field was intense. Until then 
nothing in the way of long flights had been at- 

47 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

tempted, much less attained ; and the news that Mr. 
Curtiss was trying for the Great Prize of Brescia 
(thirty thousand lire) spread like wild- fire, when, 
after having made three times the ten-kilometre 
circuit of the field, Mr. Curtiss went on a fourth and 
fifth round. As a finishing touch, Mr. Curtiss made 
a very short sixth round, and came down as lightly 
as he had ascended. The whole performance had 
taken forty-nine minutes and twenty-four seconds. 

After seeing this splendid feat of our com- 
patriot, we returned to Brescia to secure lodgings 
for the night, and so missed the flight of Rougier, 
who won the record by going up to a height of one 
hundred and sixteen metres. 

The next morning our party set out early, and 
secured good seats on the tribunes, meeting Mr. 
Curtiss and talking with him. We found him very 
quiet and modest amid all the honor and attention 
that were being given him. His machine was the 
smallest and lightest of all, reminding one of a sea- 
gull, which, by the way, he said was exactly what 
he was aiming at. In the forenoon of the 12th not 
much flying went on, an attempt of Calderara's not 
succeeding. Toward two o'clock spectators, who 
in the morning had been scarce, began to arrive in 
great numbers; and the place reserved for auto- 
mobiles filled rapidly until about one thousand were 
drawn up. 

At three o'clock Rougier tried for the Great 
Brescia Prize, not succeeding, however, in beating 

48 



BEAUTIFUL COMO 

Mr. Curtiss's record for speed, since his flight occu- 
pied one hour, nine minutes, and forty-two seconds. 

Since we wished to go back to Lake Como on 
Sunday night, we did not wait to see Mr. Curtiss's 
second very successful flight, but departed at five 
o'clock, arriving, after a short stop in Bergamo, at 
my villa on Lake Como about midnight. 

During the next few days I enjoyed little excur- 
sions on my yacht, the Carlotta, which is American 
built, and we sailed in and out and about Lake 
Como, where I may go as fast as I please without 
seeing a gendarme holding up his finger and saying, 
" A little too fast, madame." At the fiesta di fiori 
at Cadenabbia on September 22d, my yacht was 
honored with the first prize for motor-boats, con- 
sisting of a silver cup given by the Marchesa Trotti, 
and a hand-painted banner. 

Finally the time arrived for continuing my trip, 
and I accepted an invitation to spend the week-end 
with Madame Brocca Rospini, in Magenta, where 
many mutual friends were invited to meet me and 
to wish me bon voyage.. 

From Magenta we motored to Genoa, and from 
Genoa to Marseilles, down the Riviera. The carna- 
tion beds on one side of the road, and the blue sea 
on the other, give the traveller in a motor-car a much 
more vivid appreciation of the beauty of this place 
than one could ever obtain from riding in a railroad 
train. 

Honk-Honk must not be forgotten. It was all 

4 49 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

right for the rest of my party to sail on the P. & O. 
Line, but after writing, begging, and doing every- 
thing possible to obtain permission, Honk-Honk 
was not permitted to accompany his mistress. I 
found I could send him by express by a slower boat 
going from Genoa to Bombay, and it was decided 




CASA BROCCA, MAGENTA 



that Honk-Honk must travel alone. Providing 
him with his outfit meant a box, a cover to sleep on, 
a drinking cup, brush and comb, a box of dog bis- 
cuit, and a pair of his mistress's slippers. To insure 
the attention of his care-takers, the following note 
was enclosed in a small waterproof envelope and 
attached to his collar : 



TO WHOM IT MAY CONCERN 

My name is Honk-Honk, and I was given to my mistress as a 
mascot for her motor trip around the world ; but as dogs are not per- 
mitted on the steamer that My Mistress sailed on, I, a Boston Bull 

50 



BEAUTIFUL COMO 

Terrier, am obliged to be sent by another line. I don't bite, only 
love to play; and if there is nothing else, will some kind-hearted 
person give me My Mistress's slipper to play with, then I won't cry. 
/ don't eat meat at all, only bread and soup, with plenty of 
fresh water, and occasionally a big bone, which will amuse me 
for hours: also if I may be permitted to plav on deck, I'll be 
very good and not give any one any trouble. When I arrive safe 
those in charge of me will receive the gratitude of Mrs. Clark 
Fisher, at Bombay; also the gratitude of Honk-Honk. 

As to the crating of my car: after taking pos- 
session of my car in Paris, the crate was left with 
the Express Company in storage, to be sent to what- 
ever port I might afterward decide to sail from. I 
sent this notice, as" agreed upon, and the crate was 
sent to Genoa. My car was then packed and sent 
from Genoa to Bombay by way of another steamer, 
the Express Company attending to this. I after- 
ward learned this was unnecessary, and I could have 
attended to it myself without paying ten dollars a 
day for a man's time to make inquiries; but the 
Express Company having told me that they had 
agencies all the way around the world, I thought 
perhaps it would be wiser to let them handle the car. 
I learned afterward that they had not agencies as 
represented, and I was obliged to take charge of 
the car, Mr. Brooks going himself to the Custom 
House and seeing that it was properly taken out 
of the crate and re-crated. This was not properly 
done in Italy, where we trusted to others. A more 
stupid lot of workmen one could not have found. 
There were always too many bosses, and the men 
were only too willing to disobey one man while lis- 
tening to the orders of another. 




I 



w 



ON THE BANKS OF THE NILE 

V 

TOWARD THE FAR EAST 

E left Marseilles on the Mantua, sailing 
December 10, 1909, for Port Said, and 
arriving December 14th, about ten o'clock 
in the morning. 

All the passengers were put into lighters and 
taken ashore, where, for the first time, I saw the 
different nationalities of the Eastern countries. 
Such excitement! Such calling out directions in a 
language that I had never heard before! For a 
moment my heart failed me, for all my previous 
experiences in travelling seemed to have been of no 
avail. After careful consideration and much corre- 
spondence, I had decided not to travel with a Cook 
or any other tourist ticket, so I felt absolutely help- 

52 



TOWARD THE FAR EAST 

less. However, I soon found a man who spoke 
English, and I told him we were going to Cairo and 
that my baggage was on one of those lighters, and 
asked him what I had to do about it. He informed 
me that it would all be looked after ; that I needed 
only to identify my baggage after its arrival, out 
of an immense quantity that was piled here and 
there on the sand. This I did, and we were then 
taken to the station, where I purchased our tickets 
for Cairo. I had to take my baggage to another 
department, where it was weighed, and where I paid 
for its weight. I believe there was some allowance 
on my tickets. 

Then for the ride! And, by the way, this was 
the first time I had been on a railroad train for many 
months — yes, years; but there was no help for it 
this time, and that ride made me apyjreciate tenfold 
the pleasure of riding in the fresh air in my motor- 
car. 

The railroad runs along the Suez Canal, and as 
the train started, we rushed from side to side of the 
car to catch glimpses of that wonderful piece of 
engineering that cost so many lives and so much 
money. We were also interested to see the bands 
of pilgrims wending their way toward Cairo, to 
spend Christmas night with their dead; the long 
trains of camels walking on the narrow bank along 
the canal, where it was barely possible for two to 
pass. We caught glimpses of the little mud houses 
gathered together in the small villages everywhere 

53 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

on either side of the bank, great quantities of sheep, 
the little donkeys, the palm trees, and great deserts 
of sand spread out in the distance, Even the sky 
with its glorious coloring impressed one with the 
thought that we were in the old Eastern land. I 
shall never forget the first sunset I saw, lighting up 
everything with its golden glow, with streaks of 
yellow, blue, and green, in fact, every color known, 
starting out of the west. 

It was hot and dusty, and when we arrived in 
Cairo the whole party showed more fatigue and 
dust than we would have suffered in a five hundred 
mile motor trip. We were at once beset with guides, 
each having his voluminous pockets filled with end- 
less letters written by tourists, recommending their 
special guide to your attention. Many informed 
us that they had been in America ; others informed 
us they had never served any but royalty. We soon 
selected a guide from the hotel, and told him we 
wanted to go to Shepheard's, as to visit Cairo with- 
out going to Shepheard's would not seem like Cairo 
at all, although I understand there are far better 
hotels there, with more modern conveniences and at 
a lower price. We were put into an already over- 
crowded 'bus and driven toward the hotel. The air 
was delightful ; one did not feel too hot or too cool. 
Reaching the hotel, we were met by the manager, 
whom one might have taken for a dancing-master, 
so exquisitely dressed was he. He wore a pink 
carnation in his buttonhole, and bowed and sa- 

54 



TOWARD THE FAR EAST 

laamed effusively. He informed us that they were 
very crowded, but he would make an effort to 
accommodate us, and, after I had selected the rooms 
that suited me best for my little party, our baggage 
was brought up by brown, bare-legged Egyptians, 
each wearing about his head nine yards of cheese- 
capping which I was afterward told was used for 
their shrouds when they are dead. Always in life 
they carry that muslin with them. 

Copied from My Diary 

Friday, Dec. 10. Sailed from Marseilles on the P. & O. 
Mantua for Port Said. Weather fair. 

Saturday, 1 1 . Weather fair. All well. 

Sunday, 12. Heavy rain and hail storm. Sea rough. I 
wish I was on land. 

Monday, 1 3. Fair weather. All well. 

Tuesday, 14. Arrived at Port Said about ten a. m. Landed 
and took train to Cairo, arriving there about 5:30 p. m. 

Wednesday, 15. Visited Bazaar in the morning. 

Thursday, 16. Made excursion to pyramids by carriage 
and camels. On return visited Zoological Gardens and Gerrah 
Palace. Lunched at Sphinx Hotel. 

Friday, 17. Drove to Citadel in the afternoon and saw the 
Mosque. Drove from there across the Nile to see the sunset. 

Saturday, 18. Excursion to Sakharali. Took train to 
Helanam, then donkeys and sand-cart to the tombs and pyra- 
mids at Gherah across the desert. Tram home to hotel. 

Among the amusing incidents of this day was 
Mr. Brooks's first experience in riding a donkey. 
He had just remarked to me that he had never real- 

55 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

ized before how nice it was to ride, and that upon 
his return to America he thought he would purchase 
a horse, when I had a view of him making a double 
somersault over the head of the donkey. When he 
arose from the ground, there was hostility and a lot 
of white showing in his eye, and in the donkey's as 
well ; and I have heard nothing further about horse- 
back riding. Albert also tried his hand at doing a 
single somersault, and afterward preferred riding in 
the sand-cart, even if it was a little rough. 

Sunday, 19- A very impressive procession passed the hotel 
this morning, the funeral of a Turkish General. In the after- 
noon all went to the Museum of Antiquities. Very interesting 
exhibition of mummies. 

Monday, 20. A long ride. We were told not to land our 
motor-car here, as there were only a few roads, the longest 
being ten miles, which was built in eleven days by Napoleon's 
soldiers. The sand and desert are impassable for motor-cars 
at this time, but I think it will be only a short time before they 
will have lovely rides all around Cairo. 

Tuesday, 21. A long donkey ride to the Petrified Woods, 
and to visit Moses' Well, where the water gushed from the rock 
at his command. 

Wednesday, 22. Visited the Island and the Villa Rhoda, 
also the place where Moses was supposed to have been found 
in the bulrushes. 

Thursday, 23. To-day every one is talking in the bazaars. 
The streets are crowded with people, and the fatted lamb or 
goat is in front of nearly every man's door. One really feels 
heartfelt sympathy for these poor animals that are pulled and 
punched, but sometimes coaxed along by a little lad walking 
ahead with a handful of grass to persuade the lamb or sheep 
that he can get a bite, but the bite is always held too high, and 

56 



TOWARD THE FAR EAST 

he can only make the trial over and over again. The sunsets 
are beautiful, and we have had delightful weather ever since 
we arrived. 

In Cairo the children are half naked, and one 
sees very few women, those of the better class having 
their faces covered, and driving in carriages with 
outrunners, to keep the people from seeing them. 
Before the shops one can see men working with 
their hands and feet in the same time, grinding 
knives with one foot turning the handle, the knives 
in their hands. Wood-turners are to be seen using 
the most primitive tools one can imagine. Men 
carry water in calf-skins that look dirty, and are 
dirty. These skins are hung around the neck of 
the water-carrier with a string, and to hold the 
water in they close the neck of the skin with their 
hands. This water is sold to any one along the 
streets, and the skins are filled at the pumps. 

The Mosques are interesting. The students sit 
on the floor and keep up a constant rocking motion 
while studying, all swaying in the same direction, 
and this seems to be a part of their duty. It makes 
one feel seasick, almost, to watch them. They wash, 
eat, and sleep in these so-called colleges. 

One sees many blind people here, and nearly 
every other person one meets has sore eyes. Upon 
making inquiries as to the cause of this, we were 
told that the mothers were partly responsible, for 
in many cases when a son is born, the mother, not 
wanting the boy to have to go out as a soldier, would 

57 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

drop a drop of a poisonous herb and goat's milk 
into the eyes of the child, thus causing the sore eyes 
and total blindness, the mother believing that in this 
way she is saving her child from battle. 

On the 24th we decided that we would go up into 
the tombs with the many caravans of people we 
could see passing along every day. They are a 
solemn-looking people, minding their own business, 




RETURNING FROM THE "FEAST OF THE DEAD," CAIRO 

except in some of the more dilapidated houses along 
the old bazaars, where one will find children quar- 
relling and fighting like little wildcats, and women 
pulling one another's hair. 

One of the most disgusting and pitiful sights 
was to see the little helpless children, and the sick, 
with the ever-present flies crawling over their faces, 
in their eyes, ears, and mouth, and thus carrying 
infection to others. There is nothing to do but 

58 



TOWARD THE FAR EAST 

carry a small bamboo lash with one always, with 
which to keep the flies away. The parents carry 
their children astride their shoulders; and it is not 
an unusual sight to see the little children sleeping 
soundly with their little heads resting on the shoul- 
ders of the one carrying them, as contentedly as 
though resting in a cradle. 

One certainly feels the spirit of Christmastide in 
the air as with thousands of others we join the 
procession and go up into the tombs, not to sleep, 
but to watch the little impromptu outdoor plays, 
the dancing and other amusements of this Christ- 
mas fete. At four o'clock Christmas morning there 
is a solemn moment when all kneel, and each person 
there is praying to Allah. 

At this time both men and women are given as 
much meat as they can eat, for twice a year they 
have this general slaughter, and each must give to 
his neighbor, so that all are supplied. Although for 
six months before they had hardly touched meat, 
and would probably not have much for six months 
to come, they gorge themselves at this time until 
they are really stuffed. 

As the sun rises, one can think of nothing but 
an immense eye overlooking all, and one cannot 
resist again kneeling with this mixed multitude and 
thanking one's own Allah for His many mercies, 
and asking for His protection on the rest of one's 
journey. 

No more fitting time than Christmas Day could 

59 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

be found for visiting the second hiding-place of 
Mary and the infant Christ, when fleeing from 
Herod. This has been so often described by trav- 
ellers, that I simply mention it. 

The pyramids, too, are wonderful pieces of 
architecture, but these also, with the Sphinx always 
on guard, have been so well described that I give 
no detailed account. On a moonlight trip to these 
wonders one sees them under the best conditions, 
especially the Sphinx. 

On Monday, December 27th, we left Cairo at 
6.15 p. m. for Aden and Port Said, where we were 
to take the P. & O. steamer for India. Upon our 
arrival in Port Said, we found that the China, on 
which we expected to sail, had been badly damaged 
in a storm, and the Persia would not arrive before 
Friday, so we had to wait from Monday until 
Friday, and sail on that day on the steamer Persia 
for Bombay. 




THE CAR ARRIVING AT BOMBAY 



VI 
BOMBAY AND HONK-HONK 



LEAVING Port Said on Friday, December 
^ 31st, at five p. m., we arrived in Bombay 
on January 9, 1910, after an uneventful 
voyage. We went to the Taj Mahal Hotel, and I 
at once started out to look for Honk-Honk, and 
was delighted to find him well, and so happy to see 
me again that he hardly knew how to express his 
joy. The weather was very hot, but Mr. Brooks 
went out to look for the motor-car. 

The first thing 1 did was to visit the army and 
navy store, to get supplies for our future motor 
trip. I bought a lantern, a hatchet, and two guns ; 
and was delighted to find I could get all my cooking 
utensils of aluminum, so procured a coffee-pot, a 
tea-kettle, a nest of stewing dishes, frying pans, a 

61 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

soup-pot, and an excellent alcohol lamp. With the 
tea-basket which I brought from America, and 
which holds just enough for four people, my house- 
keeping outfit was complete. 

It will interest the reader to know the quantity 
of provisions with which we started out. I pur- 
chased a tin can holding seven pounds of flour, five 
pounds of coffee, three pounds of cut loaf sugar 
and one pound of granulated sugar, a can of baking 
powder, three small jars of Liebig's extracts, three 
boxes of soda crackers, six jars of condensed milk, 
six cans of condensed cream, a jar of curry, three 
cans of Australian sausage (which, by the way, is 
delicious) , a jar of canned bacon, two jars of potted 
chicken, two of boned partridge, and a quart of 
onions, as I was told these were very hard to obtain 
except in the large bazaars. These were all packed 
into light Indian wicker baskets, just fitting in 
between the two passengers on the rear seat. I also 
purchased two Indian water-buckets. 

We found our car had stood the passage well, 
and we made several excursions around and about 
Bombay. One of these was a sort of trial trip, to 
prove whether or not our car was going to be able 
to climb the hills. This was to Poona, a distance of 
one hundred and thirteen miles from Bombay, over 
a mountain that no motor-car had been able to 
climb without the water boiling over in the engine, 
and then only with great difficulty, as I was in- 
formed by some English people in Bombay. I 

62 



BOMBAY AND HONK-HONK 

invited to go with me on this trip Mr. and Mrs. 
Cassie, with whom we had become acquainted on 
shipboard. 

We left Bombay on Saturday, and had our first 
experience going in and through the narrow, 
crowded streets, and playing " hide and seek " with 
the bullock carts. These are the most dangerous 
things a motorist can have to deal with. The drivers 
very seriously keep to the left in English fashion, 
but when you are just about opposite Mr. Bullock, 
although he has apparently paid no attention to you 
as you came up, suddenly, quicker than a flash, he 
turns to one side, and you have to be mighty sharp 
at the wheel to prevent being hit with the long 
bamboo poles with which these two-wheeled carts 
are oftentimes loaded. In spite of his master's 
punching him and pulling on the rope which is tied 
through the animal's nose, a more wise bullock 
would often leave the road entirely to you, while he 
would take to the gutter, or a hill, or anything to 
get out of the way. We were amused sometimes at 
some of the ridiculous spills caused by these sudden 
flights from the road. The carts have only two 
wheels, which are very high, and the carts have no 
sides, being composed of only three or four flat 
boards, and on these boards as many as eight or ten 
people sometimes ride, so you can imagine the 
scramble and spill that takes place when the bullock 
turns and runs over a knoll up a hill. The people 
usually took this good-naturedly, however, and, 

63 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

after picking themselves up out of the dust, would 
salaam in the most friendly manner and smile at 
their own ridiculous position. 

There are a great number of toll-gates near and 
around Bombay, especially on the road to Poona, 
which is one of the English fort towns. About 
every four miles one passes a toll-gate. The roads, 
however, are in excellent condition. 




HELD UP FOR TOLL 



We left the Taj Mahal Hotel about eleven 
o'clock, taking our tea-basket with us, and reached 
Poona about five o'clock that afternoon. My car 
was the first large car to ascend the Bhor Ghat, so 
it attracted a good deal of attention and created 
some excitement. We felt rather anxious, fearing 
we might have some trouble ; but as Mr. Cassie was 
able to speak Hindustanee, he was of great assist- 
ance. It was a beautiful trip, and well worth the 
trouble. 

64 



BOMBAY AND HONK-HONK 

One of the amusing and unusual sights to my 
Western eyes was the making use of men for nurse- 
maids. Some of the wives of the English officers 
told me that they much preferred them to women, 
that they were very fond of the children, and became 
very devoted to them. They had one trouble with 
them, and that was they would treat a fifteen or 
sixteen year old boy as though he were a child of 
five or six years of age. These men did not seem 
to realize that they were occupying a peculiar posi- 
tion, but were very proud of their little charges. 

Motoring is fairly under way in Bombay. They 
have a Motor Club and are very enthusiastic about 
ifc, although the English cling to their horses, espe- 
cially for early morning riding. 

In passing through the villages, going over 
bridges, and travelling over the ghats, the drivers 
must drive slowly and caref ully ; although the police 
are very obliging in the cities, and, if they know 
what you want, will try to help you. One should be 
very careful, too, in turning through the villages, as 
there are many dangerous places, short curves and 
bends in the road, and if the driver is not constantly 
on the alert, he will suddenly find himself ditched. 

Our car behaved beautifully going up Bhor 
Ghat, not seeming even to notice that it was going 
up a hill ; and our friends were enthusiastic over it. 

We passed through the English barracks, and 
on our return, the following day, we visited the 
Caves of Karli. These caves are so far from any 

5 65 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

railway, that to visit them it is necessary to have a 
motor-car or a horse. They are perhaps the most 
wonderful caves in all India, having been cut out of 
the rocks, leaving solid pillars which uphold the 
roof. They are far up the mountains, and I was 
obliged to be carried up in a dandie by four strong 
men, who were only too willing to do this for 




IN THE CAVES OP KARLI 



twenty-five cents. The rest of the party went up 
on foot. Scientific men are almost the only ones 
who attempt to visit these caves. From the road 
winding far below around the foot of the mountain, 
one would never suspect that such works of art were 
near. It is claimed that these caves were used thou- 
sands of years ago as a hiding-place for soldiers; 
being occupied at times by the Hindus and at other 

66 



BOMBAY AND HONK-HONK 

times by the Mohammedans. The priest now in 
charge points out the damage done to the carvings 
by the Mohammedans. 

After having enjoyed a delightful motor trip, 
we returned to Bombay. The natives gazed upon 
us with great interest, but we returned the compli- 
ment, for to our Western eyes the sight of so many 
people with so little on in the way of clothing was, 
after the first shock, a rather unique form of enter- 
tainment. 

While in Bombay we were entertained by Cap- 
tain Radice at the Royal Yacht Club, with an after- 
noon tea and dinner. 

The island of Bombay is one of twelve which 
were at one time separated from the mainland and 
from one another by very narrow channels, some of 
which have now been filled up. The principal 
islands are Bassein, Dravi, Salsette, Trombay (in 
which the hill called the Neat's Tongue, one thou- 
sand feet high, is a conspicuous sight) , Bombay and 
Elephanta. The average temperature of Bombay 
is 79.2° F. It is neither so hot in summer nor so 
cold in winter as many places in the interior. The 
coolest months are from November until March. 
The southwest monsoon begins about the second 
week in June, and the rains continue until the end 
of September, the average rainfall being 70.30 
inches. 

As the harbor is approached and entered, the 
scene is thoroughly picturesque. To the west, the 

67 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

shore is crowded with buildings, some of them, as 
for example the Colaba Church, the Tower of the 
University, and that of the Municipal Buildings, 
lofty and well proportioned. To the north and east 
are numerous islands, and, on the mainland, hills 
rising to an altitude of from one thousand to two 
thousand feet. Noteworthy among these is the 
remarkable hill of Bawa Malang, otherwise called 
Mallangarh, on the top of which is an enormous 
mass of rock with perpendicular sides, crowned 
with a fort, now in ruins. 

Travellers who have not been in the East before, 
will be struck with the picturesqueness of the scene 
on landing in Bombay. The quaint native craft at 
the quay; the crowds of people dressed in the most 
brilliant and varied costumes; the Hindus of dif- 
ferent castes ; the Mohammedans, Jews, and Parsis, 
with a sprinkling from other nationalities; the 
gaily-painted bullock-carts; and other sights of 
equal novelty, combine to make a lasting impression 
on the mind of the stranger. The road from the 
Ballard Pier enters the circuit of the old fort of 
Bombay just above the ancient castle. From this 
point Bazar Gate Street leads north to the Victoria 
Station and onward to the main part of the city, and 
here, after three o'clock in the afternoon, you will 
find carriages drawn up and all classes and all sorts 
of people sitting and lying around. Here and there 
are small groups of people watching the snake- 
charmers, with at least a dozen snakes, a few scor- 

68 



BOMBAY AND HONK-HONK 

and a mongoose. They give exhibitions of 
their wonderful control over these creatures, and if 
you will pay them a rupee they will let the mongoose 
out and have a snake killed. These snake-charmers 
are a part of the real life of Bombay; for one cannot 
walk a block without being accosted by them with 
smiles and gestures, indicating that they want to 
show you what they can do. 

The heat in the middle of the day is dangerous, 
and the first thing a tourist does is to provide him- 
self with a topee and a thin pongee silk suit or gown. 
Also, it is advisable to carry a small bamboo stick 
with which to whip the bare legs of the natives who 
are too persistent in coming close up to one in beg- 
ging, or selling their Avares. In this close contact 
there is danger of catching the plague or some other 
disease. 

The Queens Road leads to Malabar Hill, which 
bends around the northwest side of the bay, and is 
continued to the north by Khamballa Hill. From 
both of these beautiful views of the Back Bay and 
of the sea are obtained. 

A little further on, your attention is called to 
the many buzzards sitting on the wall, and if you 
listen very carefully, you will hear them calling or 
chattering. If you look around to the right, you 
will probably find the last remains of a father, 
brother, or mother being carried on the shoulders of 
coolies to the rocks above, where, in a short time, 
these birds tear the flesh from the bones. They told 

69 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

me that at night the jackals come and finish what 
is left of these human forms. 

Before starting across India, I engaged a boy 
who spoke fairly good English, to accompany me 
to Calcutta. He came into my service three or four 
days before I left Bombay, sleeping outside of my 
door at the Taj Mahal Hotel, on a sort of quilted 
mat about ten inches thick. He also had a small tin 
kettle and a little box in which he was to carry his 
provisions on our trip. His fees were to be fifteen 
dollars a month, he supplying himself with his own 
provisions, and sleeping outside the door of my tent 
wherever we might stop. 



I 



A BULLOCK CART 



VII 

ACROSS INDIA IN A MOTOR-CAR 

ON January 17th we started from Bombay. 
It was not a very promising outlook. 
Dirty, ragged-looking people lined the 
way, and every few moments a corpse was carried 
along the street with scarcely any covering. Every 
one was talking about the plague and the smallpox, 
and at this time of the year the Hindus and the 
Mohammedans are very restless — but all of this 
sounds more dreadful than it really was. 

The dirty people are there, yes; that is, on the 
outside, but I believe the Hindus are very cleanly, 
for they are always washing, unfortunately, on the 
very edge of the different wells, where the water 
runs back into the wells, and they, and you also, 
have to partake of this same water, but " well 
cooked before taking." 

We made arrangements with the only garage 
in Bombay to send us petrol en route to the differ- 

71 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

cnt stations, and paid our hotel bill, then two brown, 
bare-legged Hindus, with the assistance of my boy, 
Antonio, began carrying down the different pieces 
of luggage we were to take with us. As the differ- 
ent parcels were packed, and we began to stow them 
away on the motor-car, a small crowd of people, 
guests of the hotel, gathered around. The manager 
became so interested that he asked me politely, but 
pointedly, " Madam, do you expect to take all that 
stuff with you on your motor-car? " 

" Yes." 

" But, madam, you will never get twenty miles 
out of Bombay with it." 

I smilingly answered, " Xo? Why not? " 

' Why, you will break down, and you are liable 
to be robbed. What all have you got there? " 

" Simply a camping outfit, with provisions for 
four or five days." 

The manager put both hands in his pockets, 
shrugged his shoulders, and walked away to the 
group of gentlemen at the other end of the piazza. 
I heard them in excited conversation, and again the 
manager returned and said: "Mrs. Fisher, those 
gentlemen over there are motorists, and they are 
making a wager that you are undertaking an impos- 
sibility in trying to cross India. Why, there is not 
an English officer would trust his wife fifty feet out- 
side camp here in this country." 

Again I answered: "No? Well, I am going 
to trust myself, and I shall be very pleased to send 

72 



ACROSS INDIA IN A MOTOR-CAR 

you a card from Calcutta, informing you of our safe 
arrival." 

He at once gave me his card and a deadhead 
frank on which to send the message. He asked per- 
mission to present two of the gentlemen, and they 
questioned me about my proposed journey. " How 
do you expect to get petrol as you go along? " 

I told them that I carried nearly four hundred 
miles of petrol along with me, in the front tank 
eighteen gallons, and in the rear tank twenty-two 
gallons, and also four gallons of oil for the machine ; 
that I had arranged to have the petrol delivered at 
the different stations located from a map that I 
had been able to obtain, and that I felt pretty sure 
of reaching those stations before the petrol that I 
carried with me had given out; and that the dak 
bungalows and my tent must be my home until we 
reached Calcutta. 

You are allowed to have only twelve gallons 
of petrol, or three four-gallon drums, sent to one 
person, so when we needed more than that amount, 
we had it sent in the name of one of the other mem- 
bers of our party to the station designated, and in 
that way were able to obtain a sufficient supply. 

We were to have left Bombay about eight 
o'clock that morning, but it took so long to stow 
away all the necessary articles that it was nearly 
eleven before we got away. 

We took the Queens Road on the way to Igap- 
turi, going through Thana to Bhewndi, which is 

73 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

distant from Thana nine miles. Here there is a 
creek, over which we were obliged to ferry, and 
which must be taken at high tide. From Bhewndi 
to Shahpura is seventeen miles, and there are very 
good roads here, but they are intersected by about 
thirty Irish bridges, which are known to Americans 
as " water ways." These must be taken very care- 
fully, or broken axles or springs will result. Many 
of them cannot be seen until one is almost on them. 
From Shahpura to Tagpturi is thirty-two miles. 
This is about two thousand feet above sea level, and 
the way up the ghats is steep, but the scenery is 
beautiful. We arrived in Khardi about five o'clock 
in the evening, where we made our first camp. We 
had made only about ninety miles that first after- 
noon. At Khardi there were no sleeping quarters, 
so we were obliged to set up our tent, and, having 
cooked our own supper, to sleep in the open. 

We all felt very hot and thirsty, and Albert was 
obliged to keep the kettle boiling for three hours to 
supply us with boiled water to satisfy our thirst. 
We had no ice, and the only way to cool the water 
was by putting it in a " chattie " and tying the 
bottle on the limb of a tree. I was put to work 
swinging the bottle to cool the water. 

It is impossible to picture adequately the views 
that presented themselves to us, north, south, east, 
and west ; the barren mountains, with here and there 
a group of trees; the little mud huts that looked 
like mounds covered with straw. There, far away 

74 



ACROSS INDIA IN A MOTOR-CAR 

from the sound of horses' feet, we set up our tent 
and courted sleep — in vain. Honk-Honk was 
chained to the front of the car, and not being accus- 
tomed to this life, and hearing the tom-toms from 
the neighboring village, he kept up a lively racket 
all night. 





CHATTIE BOTTLE AND BOWL 



The sensations that come when one realizes that 
one is really in a foreign land and that there are 
none but black people around, are decidedly pecul- 
iar. There were plenty of the natives, who delighted 
their souls by gazing at us, but they were extremely 
polite, never coming within fifty feet of our camp 
unless we desired them to do so. They were willing 
to serve us by bringing water or wood, or by doing 
anything that was required of them by the " white 
lady." 

75 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

On account of a great religious festival that was 
going on, our second day's run was from Igatpuri 
to Dhulia, eighty miles. From Igatpuri to Nansik 
is about twenty-five miles of tolerably level road. 
Near Nansik is the Godavery or Ganga River, 
which is considered sacred by the natives. Thou- 
sands of pilgrims come there every twelve years to 
bathe in this river. Here one sees orange, red, and 
white turbans, and mothers carrying their infants 
on their hip. The salaam is given here by touching 
the head with the right hand and then passing it to 
the heart, with a very graceful motion. 

The bank of the river Godavery is thickly lined 
with temples. The chief temple is to be found on 
the lower bank, and this is dedicated to Kala Rama, 
or " Black Rama." The Buddhist Caves, varying 
in age from the first century, B.C., to the second 
century, A.D., lie about five miles to the southwest 
of Nansik. Trimbak, about twenty miles off, is 
venerated as the sacred source of the river, where 
the " water trickles drop by drop from the lips of 
a carven image shrouded by a canopy of stone " 
into a tank below. This is the sacred bathing place 
of the many pilgrims. The road is fair, and the 
journey there and back can be made in one day. 
Nansik is also the headquarters of the Royal West- 
ern India Golf Club, and the links there are good. 

From Nansik to Munar one is advised to take a 
train or to ferry across the river, but we found a 
fine new bridge and a very good road. From 

76 



ACROSS INDIA IN A MOTOR-CAR 

Munar to Malegaon is twenty miles of good level 
road; from Malegaon to Dhulia is thirty-six miles 
of good roads, and some Irish bridges. Here we 
stopped at the dak bungalow, and at Dhulia we got 
our first supply of petrol. 

Whenever we came near a railroad station we 
found a great difference in the manners of the 




THROUGH THE SAND AT TAPTI RIVER 

natives, for there they were on the lookout for tips, 
and were inclined to be impertinent. 

We were entertained during the evening at the 
English garrison with native dances and games by 
the different braves. The Chief of Police here was 
much interested in our trip, and gave orders to have 
us met at the Tapti River with sixteen bullocks to 
pull our car, and two carts to take our baggage, so 
as to avoid any delay. 

From Dhulia to the Tapti River is about thirty 

77 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

miles. The crossing of the river is tiresome, as 
there is several hundred yards of deep sand on both 
banks, through which the car must be pulled by the 
bullocks. A rope was tied to the front of the motor, 
but the sand was so deep and soft that the rope 
broke, and here I was glad that I had my own good 
manila rope, which was for the first time required 
for this purpose. Here, again, we saw thousands 
of pilgrims bathing in the river. These pilgrims do 
not seem to mind walking forty or fifty miles to 
accomplish their religious ceremonies. We met one 
queer-looking procession carrying a paper temple 
erected on two poles, which they were going to 
throw into the Tapti River as a sacrifice. 

From Dhulia to the Khal Ghat is about one 
hundred and ten miles. From the Tapti River to 
the Khal Ghat is about eighty miles of good govern- 
ment roads for about five miles south of Sendwa, 
after which, through Holkar's territory, the surface 
of the road is very rough, with many steep and bad 
causeways. Very careful driving is required. 

Unless there is plenty of time and light, it is 
wise to stop at the Khal Ghat dak bungalow, as the 
crossing of the JNTerbudda River takes considerable 
time. There are plenty of natives to assist one in 
crossing the ferry. In the cold weather, when the 
water is low, there is an indifferent stone causeway 
across the river, but the island near the centre of 
this causeway is very sandy, and the going heavy. 

Among the objects of interest to visit on the 



ACROSS INDIA IN A MOTOR-CAR 

way from Dhulia to the Khal Ghat are the Caves of 
Agante. They are about eighty miles from Dhulia 
—a very fair road — and there is a Rest House at 
Fardapur, which is the nearest one to these caves. 
The caves number about twenty-nine, and they are 
among the best specimens of cave architecture in 
India. Here one will see the celebrated paintings 
supposed to be fourteen hundred years old, admir- 
ably illustrating the religious and social life of the 
people of India at that epoch. 

From the Khal Ghat to Maksi is ninety-six 
miles, and from the Khal Ghat to Mhow is thirty- 
seven miles. At Mhow we drove to the station and 
got our second supply of petrol for about eight 
rupees. Here we found a very dirty bungalow, and 
met a little English woman who was in tears, 
because her husband had just been ordered here 
from another station. She said her two little girls 
were almost eaten up with " crimson ramblers " — 
known in America as bedbugs! We decided to 
move on to Indore, about thirteen miles from 
Mhow, where we found a clean bungalow and an 
old robber. However, by this time we were learn- 
ing the prices w T e should pay. We refused to take 
meals there, but we made use of the bungalow, and 
Albert gave us a good dinner of baked beans, 
tomato salad, boiled potatoes, and fried eggs. We 
were glad of our crackers, for here we found no 
bread. We met a Mr. Ross here, who came in and 
shared our dinner of baked beans, and said he had 

79 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

never enjoyed a dinner more since he had been in 
India. 

During the night Honkie was left outside, fas- 
tened to the motor-car, when the jackals attacked 
him. A more frightened dog was never seen. I 
heard the noise of the howling, and went to the 
rescue with an iron bar which I took from the 
window. I soon frightened off the jackals, but a 
few minutes' delay would have seen the end of poor 
little Honk-Honk, as he was so chained that he 
could not well defend himself. 

It was at this place that we had our first tire 
trouble — two punctures and a blow-out. 

From Indore one can visit the Mandu ruins, 
which are about sixty-five miles from Indore, over 
a good road. No food is obtainable at the ruins, 
and if the motorist is obliged to stay overnight, the 
best place to sleep is in the gateway of Jama 
Mas j id. Paths have been cut through the jungle 
to all the ruins of interest here, but the chief one is 
Jama Mas j id, supposed to have been built about 
1431-1454 A.D. This is less injured than any of 
the others, and is said to be the largest and finest 
specimen of Afghan architecture in India. These 
are massive and striking ruins of palaces and courts, 
and crumbling mosques and tombs. From the 
Water Palace, which has a fine tank on either side 
of it, a splendid view of the whole city can be 
obtained. Mandu occupies about eight miles of 
ground extending along the crest of Vindhyas. 

80 



ACROSS INDIA IN A MOTOR-CAR 

From Mhow station to these ruins is about fifty 
miles. 

We left Indore about eleven o'clock, and arrived 
in Sarangpore at six o'clock in the evening. From 
Indore to Maksi is forty-seven miles of good road, 
and from Maksi to Goona is one hundred and 
twenty-eight miles. Sarangpore is about sixty 
miles from Maksi. 

Sarangpore is a charming spot at which to 
remain. We had a good night's sleep here, but 
Honkie insisted on remaining in the tent that night. 
Here we found a quiet, lovely place, and the native 
women brought us cakes. We were obliged to get 
water from a pond on the banks of which dead 
animals were lying. 

We found two policemen had been sent there to 
take extra care of the dak bungalow while we were 
there. 

We stayed here one day to rest, and to enable 
Maria to do our washing. This means that the 
washing was done in a tin bath-tub, the water being 
carried three-quarters of a mile in a goat skin, while 
the bushes answered for a clothes line. The ther- 
mometer was 65° in the shade. 

Mr. Brooks went out gunning, for we had run 
out of chickens and had only two eggs in our stores. 
We had to depend entirely on biscuits, for our 
canned goods had been consumed. We therefore 
relied entirely on what game Mr. Brooks could 
bring down with his gun. He brought in some fine 

6 81 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

pigeons, but was grieved because he had accident- 
ally shot a parrot. I must speak of some of the 
birds we saw on this trip — the minias, the green 
parrots, and the swarms of peacocks, that made 
noises like human beings. We were warned never 
to shoot these birds, as they were considered sacred 
by the natives, and were we to be found with the 
feathers in our possession, it would be a good reason 
for our immediate slaughter. The Hindus believe 
that the spirits of their ancestors, if they have lived 
good lives on earth, assume the shapes of these dif- 
ferent birds. It is unnecessary to say that we 
simply admired the peacocks. 

Antonio also started out on a foraging expedi- 
tion, and returned with two chickens, so Albert gave 
us a treat of curried chicken. We were always able 
to get plenty of good rice. We would often find, 
far away from any city, a peasant sitting out in the 
sun with a flat basket or cloth heaped up with rice 
which he sold to the passer-by, not thinking it neces- 
sary for him to go to any bazaar or larger place to 
dispose of his wares. In fact, all along the way 
there was plenty of company, each man or woman 
bearing a round brass basin on their heads, in which 
they carried water, and all going apparently in one 
direction. Oftentimes you would see a frail-looking 
little woman carrying a brass basin of water on her 
head, weighing anywhere from five to six pounds, a 
good-sized child on her hip, and a bundle of bedding 
wrapped around her neck, while in her right hand 
she would carry her staff. 

82 



ACROSS INDIA IN A MOTOR CAR 

At one point in our journey, the roadway ahead 
of us and the fields seemed alive with bullocks. 
These bullocks are wonderfully clever little animals, 
with very small feet, bright eyes, perfectly shaped 
horns, and a hump just between the shoulder blades. 
They are driven by means of a twisted cord which 
is fastened through the end of the nose, the driver 
carrying a stick with a sharp spear on the end. 

As we were driving along, four or five of these 
bullocks suddenly stood still, lowered their heads, 
and gave a tremendous bellow, switching their tails 
and looking as though they meant business — which 
they did, for two of them attacked the side of the 
car, and some of them the front, while the others 
waited evidently to see what would happen, and 
ready to help if necessary. My boy, Antonio, called 
out, " Give me stick, quick," and he drove off the 
most ferocious ones, while Mr. Brooks made a flying 
leap over the front of the car with a piece of rubber 
hose in his hand, and belabored the animals in front. 
The coolies then came to our rescue, shouting and 
making a great noise, and beating the bullocks with 
sticks. We were soon on our way again ; but one or 
two of the bullocks, not being satisfied, turned and 
chased us. Knowing he could put on full speed 
and escape them at any time, Mr. Brooks ran the 
car just fast enough to keep out of their way, but to 
tempt them on, while he filled their eyes and ears 
with dust, of which there is always more than 
enough in India, as they have not yet become mod- 
ernized enough to put tar on the roads. 

83 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

We met bullock carts, loaded with cotton, on 
the way from Mhow, and passed through miles and 
miles of cotton fields. 

It requires the greatest care in motoring in 
India, or a bad accident may occur at any moment. 
The first question I was asked by the different 
Indian princes I met was, " How did you manage 
with the bullock carts? " 

It was simply by being constantly on the watch. 
For instance, we were driving along at about twenty 
miles an hour one morning when we suddenly over- 
took a bullock cart in which there were two women, 
two young Indian boys, and an elderly man driving. 
Just as we turned out to pass the cart, the elder of 
the two women jumped from the rear of the cart 
directly in front of our car. Fortunately the road 
was wide enough here to enable Mr. Brooks to turn 
quickly and avoid hitting her; but it took several 
hours for my heart to settle down to its normal 
condition. 

We were now approaching the Gwalior estate, 
owned by the Maharaja of Gwalior, on the road 
from Sarangpore. We arrived at Goona, which is 
a part of the estate, about eleven o'clock at night, all 
very tired. The man who keeps the Rest House 
is an Eurasian, having had an English father and 
a native mother. He seemed to be well informed 
and was very enthusiastic about the comet which 
was just then making its appearance. He was 
a firm believer in different herbs and recipes which 

84 



ACROSS INDIA IN A MOTOR CAR 

the Indians use as medicine for different diseases, 
and claimed that he had a sure cure for con- 
sumption. He asked me to observe as I went along, 
if I met any one that appeared to be afflicted with 
tuberculosis. This I must say I did not, although 
it is very prevalent in Bombay. He declared that 
the Indians were wonderful doctors, and said that 
he personally knew a man who was over one hun- 
dred and forty years old. He was very mysterious, 
and pointed out to me in the sky a star which he said 
would watch me on my journey and prevent any 
serious accident. The poor man was in great grief 
at this time, having lost his wife only three days 
before. His housekeeper apparently did nothing 
but gaze. In fact all the natives were very curious 
when they saw the motor-car. 

We paid seven rupees apiece here for two rooms 
and a little kitchen ; this was for the night only, and 
included all the water, and two bedsteads with 
cotton straps across, but no mattresses. No extra 
charge was made for the dirt, of which there was a 
plenty. We cooked our own meals, depending 
entirely on canned goods which we bought from the 
keeper of the Rest House, and some pigeons which 
Mr. Brooks shot. 

It was the most magnificent night one could 
imagine. The balmy air was perfect, and the dif- 
ferent odors from the flowers, which during the day 
do not emit any odor, but with the falling dew at 
night fill the air with their spicy breath, were rare 

85 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

indeed. In the sky to the west, we had our first view 
of Halley's comet on January 27th. 

At Goona we received our next supply of petrol, 
which was in charge of the station-master, and 
found we had two cans too much. These two cans 
we forwarded on to Agra, to have ready for extra 
work there. 

The roads through the Gwalior estate are mag- 
nificent, the natives working on them all day long. 
Even a little pebble, the size of one of our hickory- 
nuts, is not allowed to remain on one of these beau- 
tifully graded roads. Inspectors are appointed for 
every fifty miles, and they are responsible to His 
Highness for the condition of the roads. Here you 
may travel as fast as you like. The peasant getting 
in your way or stopping you apologizes, because if 
it were His Highness passing through, they would 
simply be marked and flogged. We arrived in 
Gwalior, having made one hundred and thirty miles, 
at about four o'clock. We were surprised to learn 
that the Maharaja himself owned thirty- two auto- 
mobiles. His secretary, an Englishman, was very 
courteous to us, and invited us to be guests at a 
banquet given in the palace. 




EERRY1XG THE CAR AT GHAMBAL RIVER 



VIII 
BANQUET AT GWALIOR— ON TO AGRA 

HER HIGHNESS of Gwalior receives only 
ladies in her private rooms, and her first 
remark is: "Are you fond of bridge? I 
am very fond of it. I do not know what I should 
do with my many long hours if I could not play 
bridge. I always feel like giving a vote of thanks 
to the man who invented bridge." 

Not realizing that America was farther away 
than England, Her Highness thought that any one 
speaking English must be from London. 

I understand His Highness has no children. He 
is advanced in all his ideas, and is considered a loyal 
subject of England. Many English diplomats are 
in his employ, and he has done a great deal for the 
opening up of Central India, by building railroads, 

87 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

furnishing all the money himself, buying the engines 
and materials, and using his own subjects to do the 
work. 

He has many ways of entertaining his guests, 
according to their individual tastes. Some he sends 
out on long rides on elephants through his own 
jungles. He also has camels and lions. He enter- 
tains very lavishly, and every English tourist of 
consequence brings letters to His Highness, antici- 
pating this entertainment. He has several palaces, 
and travels back and forth as the seasons require 
the change. They are all grand in appearance, but 
are simply furnished, looking cool and inviting in 
the extreme heat. 

The dining-room in which we were entertained 
at the banquet was decorated in white and yellow, 
with a bit of green here and there, and many plants 
surrounding the windows inside. There were many 
American inventions in the way of electrical appli- 
ances. One was a violin under a glass case, which 
was played by electricity. 

The table was in the shape of an elongated 
horse-shoe, and in the centre was an electrical track 
on which miniature silver cars run up and down the 
table. On these cars were placed liquors, cigars, 
cigarettes, sweets, and small cakes. As the little 
train went along, should you desire any of its load, 
you would lift the bottle or car of sweets, and the 
whole train would stop until the bottle or car was 
replaced, when it would start again on its journey. 



BANQUET AT GWALIOR— ON TO AGRA 

In the balcony, which was also shaped like a 
horse-shoe, native musicians were stationed. The 
music never stopped, new musicians replacing those 
who were fatigued, so there was a continuous supply 
of the Oriental music. 

We found it difficult to get our supply of crack- 
ers replenished, but before leaving Gwalior we 
bought all the bread we could, for which we paid 
fifteen cents a loaf. 

The Rest House at Gwalior is one of the worst 
we found in India, and the contrast between the 
Rest House and the palace was all in favor of the 
palace. 

We found the weather hot, and as there had been 
no rain for several weeks, it was very dusty. My 
Indian boy, who had been painted white, looked like 
a tremendously serious clown, who had troubles of 
his own: being now a dark copper color from the 
dust, his eyelids and hair simply pasted with red 
dust. The dust also turned the rest of the party into 
veritable Indians in color. 

We left Gwalior for Agra, a distance of about 
seventy-three miles. This is a good road, but the 
ferry across the Ghambal River is awkward. In 
cold weather there is an indifferent boat or pontoon 
bridge here. We found five or six old, rotten boats, 
eaten up by exposure to the sun, and piled at least 
two feet high with sugar-cane and prairie grass. 
As the car went over, it swayed up and down, and 

89 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

I thought each time the car and all its contents 
would go down to the bottom of the river. 

We decided to stop at an Inspection Bungalow 
about twenty miles this side of Agra. We had 
managed to buy some carrots and some delicious 
green peas, and we also had a little flour in the 
commissary department. Mr. Brooks was lucky 
enough to kill four pigeons, so Albert made a pot- 
pie, and we had a fine supper. Just after sunset 
Mr. Brooks killed two partridges, which occasioned 
an animated conference as to how they should be 
cooked. Everybody unfeignedly rejoiced in the 
change from pigeons to another bird. 

As we rolled along through these interesting 
places, there were flocks of quail and grouse running 
across the road, not seeming to fear or pay any 
attention to us. The peasants apparently would 
hear us miles away, and would come chasing along 
with eyes starting out of their heads, and with a 
breathless salaam would stop only a few feet away 
from our passing car. 

We took the advice of our Indian boy, and 
packed away as many limes as we could possibly 
carry in a small net sack on the side of the car. 
These helped to quench our thirst, and with a little 
sugar and boiled water, made a very acceptable 
lemonade. We liked the Inspection Bungalow so 
well that we decided to rest here until noon before 
attempting to go on to Agra. Mr. Brooks here had 
his first experience in putting a tire on a demount- 

90 



BANQUET AT GWALIOR— ON TO AGRA 

able rim in the hot sun. One should never venture 
out in the treacherous Indian sun without a topee 
hat. It is said that the cause of the death of so 
many English soldiers when they first come to India 
is sunstroke from leaving off the head covering. 
One never sees the natives with head uncovered 
during the heat of the day. They wind yards and 
yards of fine material, either cheese-capping or silk, 
around their heads, in the most artistic manner. 

We reached Agra about four o'clock in the af- 
ternoon. Objects of interest in Agra are the Taj 
Mahal Mausoleum, the Fort with Akbar's Palace, 
and the Pearl Ilosque. The beautiful mined city 
of Fatehpur Sikri is twenty-two miles from Agra, 
and is reached by an excellent road. It was built 
and then deserted by Akbar. 

In Agra was found a fairly good hotel — Lauries' 
Great Xorthern Hotel. The hotels in Agra are 
one-story buildings, built in the shape of a hollow 
square, with a court in the centre, and nearly always 
a fountain, but no water; and very indifferent 
plants, as everything here has to be irrigated to 
make it grow. Even the most ordinary tree or weed 
is allowed to grow — anything that is green. 

At these hotels the meals are fairly good. Your 
boy is supposed to bring you your tea in the morning 
at seven o'clock, also to bring you your lamp at 
night, and he likes to go shopping with you, as he 
receives a pourboire on everything jtju purchase. 
This sort of robbery seems to be tolerated, espe- 

91 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

daily by the English and Americans. The native 
Indians never permit it, but always try to get the 
very lowest ])rices themselves. I have been shop- 
ping with them, and so can speak from personal 
experience. 

The bedrooms are usually furnished with a 
dusty piece of matting covering the stone floors, 
and at the rear of the bedroom is a small room con- 
taining a tin tub and a commode, as there are no 
modern toilet conveniences. Twice a daj^ a sweeper 
comes, bringing fresh water. One should never use 
unboiled water even for brushing the teeth, as it is 
brought from dirty wells. Many people who travel 
by trains and are not warned are taken ill from this 
very source. The beds have no mattresses or pil- 
lows, but, by insisting upon it, you can get a 
mosquito net. This is desirable, for the bites of the 
mosquitoes are poisonous. 

It is absolutely necessary to have your own 
bedding, pillows, linen, and towels. It is an amus- 
ing sight to see a party arrive in an old-fashioned 
carriage drawn by old horses, and on top of the 
carriage bundles of steamer rugs and bedding, and 
boxes or trunks as we call them. Inside of this 
equipage are two or three tired-looking women, and 
one or more disgusted-looking men are presently to 
be seen making for the office of the hotel, where it is 
not unusual to hear a spirited conversation going 
on in regard to the prices of the rooms. As a rule, 
the landlord receives a severe verbal drubbing for 

92 



BANQUET AT GWALIOR— ON TO AGRA 

not being up to modern houses. The landlord is 
usually a patient man — he can afford to be, know- 
ing there are no other places for his guests to sleep, 
and that he can have ample revenge when they come 
to pay the bills — so he bottles up his wrath, saves his 
feelings, and rewards in his own fashion the people 
who have been foolish enough to go so far from 
home. 

Many English people reside here during the 
winter months, and it is not an unusual sight at five 
o'clock in the morning to see ladies and gentlemen 
horseback riding, taking their morning exercise. 
Then they come in and, as they say, take a tub (the 
English speak of their bath as we would speak of 
our dinner), and be ready for business at ten 
o'clock, or any time before noon. This particularly 
applies to bank clerks, government officials, and 
so on. 

There was always evident interest when my car 
arrived over the well-swept road, and drove up to 
the door of the hotel, and the proprietor and all 
his staff came out to meet us. Among them there 
is always the old Baba, who takes entire charge 
of the books and accounts, a venerable-looking 
man, with a long white beard and a smiling 
face, his pleasant countenance showing pa- 
tience personified. All are out to see what has 
arrived, and to welcome the American motor-car 
and the mem sahib. I was not even asked to descend 
and write my name in the book, as were the other 

95 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

passengers who had arrived by train, but was told 
that my rooms were all ready for me, and that they 
had been expecting me for three days — I suppose, 
the three days I was having a lovely time in the dak 
bungalow. But amid all this attention, the question 
came up, what was I to do with my car? It was 
decided that it had better be drawn up at the rear 
of our rooms, where some one could watch it, as the 
proprietor refused to take any responsibility for the 
safety of the car or any of its belongings, outside of 
the occupants. I have never yet quite understood 
who it was that notified them we were coming, but 
suspect my Indian boy had telegraphed them that a 
personage was on the way, and that therefore they 
must have rooms ready. 

Here we settled down for a week's sightseeing. 
Mr. Brooks took one day to look over the motor 
thoroughly, and reported to me that everything was 
all right. During this time I visited the bazaars, 
leaving the Taj Mahal for a day when I should feel 
quite fresh. The second day after our arrival, 
having met a Mr. and Mrs. Segraves from Ireland, 
I invited them to accompany us on a motor trip to 
Fatehpur Sikri, twenty-two miles distant from 
Agra. There are one or two motor-cars in Agra 
that are rented to parties who feel rich enough to 
pay fifty dollars for this trip out and back, and as 
many extras as can possibly be made out of them. 
Our friends, Mr. and Mrs. Segraves, seemed de- 
lighted to have a trip in an American built motor- 

96 



BANQUET AT GWALIOR— ON TO AGRA 

car. We visited the mausoleum, a beautiful build- 
ing covered with mother of pearl. We took Albert 
along with the tea-basket, and high up on the steps, 
where we had a fine view of the roads and the little 
mud hut villages collected here and there in the dis- 
tance, we had our tea, with some little cakes Antonio 
had been able to procure for us. 

Another day we visited the shops and watched 
the men embroidering the beautiful robes, which, 
by the way, are most tempting to a woman. Even 
men acknowledge that the work is beautiful. One is 
tempted to buy all manner of things, as here one 
finds the most beautiful bronzes, and Agra is cele- 
brated also for emeralds, pearls, and exquisite em- 
broideries of all kinds, as well as Indian shawls. 
During the middle of the day, almost every one is 
under cover, and you will see no one around except 
the natives. 

One whole day we devoted to seeing the Taj 
Mahal, going out there in the motor and taking with 
us our tea-basket. We found a beautiful marble 
corner where we were permitted to have our supper 
and wait for the moon to rise — and the building is a 
beautiful sight in the moonlight. It is an experi- 
ence never to be forgotten, to wander around that 
beautiful white marble mausoleum, built and dedi- 
cated to a woman's memory. The sides look like 
beautiful pieces of lace, and inside in many places 
it is inlaid with mother of pearl and different col- 
ored stones. Italian art is decidedly in evidence. 

7 97 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

As we think of the many years this monument has 
stood there, we wonder if in these modern days 
anything as beautiful and lasting will ever be 
accomplished. Will any man in this present age 
remember his wife with so beautiful a memorial? 

Inside of the tomb is a magnificent silver lamp 
presented by Lord Curzon; and in many places we 
found he had left memorials of his thoughtfulness. 
He is to be thanked for preserving in good condi- 
tion these wonderful old works of art that would 
otherwise have crumbled away or would have been 
carried piecemeal away by the souvenir-hunting 
tourist. 




THE MONUMENT AT CAWNPOEE 



IX 
HISTORIC DELHI 

ON February 4th we filled our tanks with 
petrol and oil, said farewell to our friends 
in Agra, and about half after ten o'clock 
started for Delhi, which is one hundred and thirty- 
three miles from Agra. From Agra to Aligarh 
is about fifty-five miles of very good road. At 
Aligarh we stopped under some beautiful spread- 
ing trees, where the odor of the straw in the rice- 
fields reminded us of our harvest days in America, 
and here we had our lunch. There is a good 
bungalow at Aligarh also. 

Aligarh is an ancient town, with an old fort 
originally built in 1524, and reconstructed by the 
French in the eighteenth century. There is a fine 

99 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

mosque in the adjacent town of Koil, and an Ori- 
ental College for the education of the upper class 
Moslems. 

After having had lunch, about two o'clock we 
went on to Delhi, and just outside of the town we 
were informed we should have to be ferried over the 
river ; but to our relief, we found a new bridge had 
been erected. Teams could only go one way at a 
time, however, so we expected to have to wait our 
turn. While waiting there, we saw a man on horse- 
back come tearing across the bridge. He appar- 
ently wished to make a particularly dignified sa- 
laam, but his horse had other ideas about this big 
two-eyed monster that stood there with the hot sun 
shining on it, and before we could understand what 
the man wanted to say, we had considerable doubt 
as to how long he would be able to keep his seat. 
Finally, after much coaxing and some discipline, 
the horse decided to let his rider come forward, and 
we were informed that we were to go on over the 
bridge, that it had been arranged that we should 
have the right of way. Immediately all traffic was 
stopped ahead of us, and we were permitted to enter 
Delhi with all comfort and speed. Here one meets 
queer-looking objects of moving sugar-cane and 
long grass, only to find that underneath the load 
are two brown legs and two brown bare feet pat- 
tering along. It would be a load for any ordinary 
horse to carry ; but these slight men do not seem to 
mind it in the least. Where they were going, or 

100 



HISTORIC DELHI 

what they were going to do with the load, I did not 
have time to inquire, but it added to the strange- 
ness and the picturesqueness of the scene. 

At Delhi the most noteworthy features are the 
sights outside of the city in connection with the 
mutiny and siege: the fort and palace, the great 
Jama Mas j id Mosque, the famous Kutab Miliar 
monument and the Jain Mosque, the Chaodni 
Chauk, the great native business street, and the 
magnificent ruins of the walls around the city. 

About eleven miles out from Delhi, on the 
Najafgarh road, there is a tower somewhat resem- 
bling the Kutab Minor, but it is only two stories 
high. It is said that when the builder of the Kutab 
heard of the execution of what he apparently con- 
sidered a rival tower, he promptly raided the place 
and cut off the hands of every man he found in the 
neighborhood. In the vicinity there is a diving well, 
at which the divers are much more clever than those 
at the well near Nizamuddin's tomb. Every inch of 
the ground about here is historical. 

Four miles farther on is the ruined city of Tugh- 
lukabad, but to visit this arrangements must be 
made before leaving Delhi for a relay of horses, and 
visitors are earnestly requested not to insist on 
doing this trip with one pair of horses. Several 
times the horses have been unable to complete the 
journey back to Delhi after going to Tughlukabad, 
to the great discomfort of visitors. This we avoided 

101 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

by having our motor-car for these trips; we trav- 
elled with safety and comfort. 

In the neighborhood of Delhi there is plenty of 
game. A list of the best places is here given : 

Buddapore — twelve miles. Police Rest Bun- 
galow. Black buck, hare, and feathered game. 

Bulswar — six miles. Police Rest Bungalow. 
Black buck, hare and feathered game. 

Sahpla — from Delhi via S. P. Ry. thirty miles. 
Chikara, deer, hare, duck, especially plentiful, and 
other feathered game. 

Juan— via Sonepat by D. U. K. Railway. 
Splendid snipe and grouse shooting. 

Tilauri — via Bulabgarh, twenty-four miles. 
Police Bungalow at Bulabgarh. Buck and feath- 
ered game. District Board Rest House at Tilauri. 

Okla — eight miles for alligator (Muggar) 
shooting. Canal Rest House. 

Wazirabad — four miles for alligator shooting; 
no Bungalow ; bad road ; but alligators plentiful. 

At Delhi we found a good hotel, but as to bed- 
ding the same conditions exist that I have heretofore 
described. 

I am going to say only a word of the very beau- 
tiful palace, or the ruins of what was once a beau- 
tiful palace. The magnificent structure is half a 
mile long. Through the centre there is a running 
stream of water, which is fed from an artificial lake 
several miles outside of the city, to keep the air 
always cool here. At each end there are magnifi- 

102 



HISTORIC DELHI 

cent swimming or bathing pools, and on either side 
a little square room with every convenience for shav- 
ing and shampooing the heads of the Maharajas. 
At the sides are marble benches, which one must 
picture as being covered with beautiful cloths em- 
broidered like jewels. That is, in fact, the famous 
jewel embroidery of Delhi. Beautiful women, the 
wives of the reigning monarch, reclined on the 
divans. 

The proprietor of the hotel, the Maidens Metro- 
politan, was an Englishman, and he was very polite, 
making us as comfortable as possible, and charging 
reasonable prices for the accommodations. Here, 
as before, we were obliged to keep the motor-car 
outside my window. This, however, enabled 
Mr. Brooks and Albert to go over it and clean it, 
and do all the necessary oiling required after a hard 
days run. As we used the car not only for trav- 
elling, but also for sight-seeing, it Avas convenient 
to have it right at the door. 

We visited the Mosque, and saw the thousands 
of people at prayer on the bare stones, all looking 
toward the sun and praising Allah. The chanting 
was most impressive, and the sound of it remained 
in one's memory for many hours. Immediately 
after this prayerful throng disappears, you will find, 
as though sprung out of the very steps themselves, 
the people selling their wares — embroideries, laces, 
and all varieties of birds, apparently perfectly tame. 
I could not resist buying several of these little birds 

105 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

from a small boy, who showed me how to attach a 
string to their tails, and in this way I carried them 
to the hotel. Then began a search for a proper cage 
in which to keep them. 

Honk-Honk was always considerately received 
in every hotel at which we stopped. At times he was 
a vicious hunter after the thousands of little chip- 
munks, or small black and red squirrels which 
helped to amuse us when riding along the roads. 
Although there were often ten or fifteen of them 
sitting in the road ahead of us, picking over the dirt, 
and peeping at us with their little bright eyes, their 
movements were so quick that by the time the car 
got up to them there would not be one in sight. In 
some parts of India, there are rows of beautiful 
trees on both sides of the road for many miles, the 
leaves on some of them being twelves inches broad. 

Our motor-car excited much admiration as we 
climbed the different hills to visit the memorials of 
the mutiny — places which were very difficult for an 
ordinary horse attached to the little Victoria used 
there to ascend. Of particular interest is the old 
Cashmere Gate in Delhi. In fact, the effects of 
the mutiny of 1857 are impressed upon one's mind 
here with great vividness. The guide-books inform 
one that two days are sufficient to spend here, but 
we spent three. I should have liked to stay here a 
month, and doubt if in that time I could have ex- 
hausted the many interesting sights. After getting 
our supply of petrol and oil, we left Delhi for 

106 



HISTORIC DELHI 

Umballa, a distance of two hundred and nineteen 
miles. 

On this road we climbed many ghats with heavy, 
deep sand; and on one or two occasions it was 
about all that our car could do to get to the top of 
the hills. Sometimes it seemed as if the car fairly 
held her breath, and then as the throttle was thrown 
open, she would gain fresh courage and with an 
almost human sigh continue onward toward the top. 

At almost any time during this trip we could 
satisfy our curiosity in regard to the monkeys, for 
they were on both sides of the road, talking away in 
their monkey jargon, and giving forth weird 
screeches. Our Indian boy told us a little story 
which showed the affection and ingenuity of these 
wonderful little creatures. 

He said that some soldiers were camping along 
a river where there were a great many alligators. 
One morning, frisking around in the trees were two 
or three baby monkeys. Every now and then the 
mothers would give a cry of warning, but, venture- 
some like all youth, one of them insisted on jumping 
a little farther along the boughs, and peering down 
at the immense alligators lying on the banks below, 
apparently sleeping, but never with the eyes quite 
closed, as they were always on the lookout for fresh 
morsels of food. Suddenly this venturesome 
monkey lost his balance and fell down in the midst 
of these ferocious animals. The cries of the mother 
brought monkeys from all directions, and in an 

107 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

instant's time the mother monkey had stretched out 
her paw to another, and a line was formed with the 
mother monkey swinging down to grasp her baby; 
but each attempt failed to reach the little one, and 
she seemed to fear to attract the attention of the 
alligators below. Another squad of monkeys came 
to the rescue, and began throwing cocoanuts down 
at the alligators to prevent them from grasping the 
little one. At last the line was sufficiently long for 
the mother monkey to catch hold of her baby, and 
with a howl of joy she sprang into the tree, and the 
rescue squad, taking a farewell fusillade at the alli- 
gators, were soon lost to sight. 

We got off the level road, and found ourselves 
on the road to Cawnpore, where we were surprised 
to find a very good hotel, the Empress Victoria, the 
only one in the place. There are several banks here, 
and the Cawnpore Club. Here I wrote letters, and 
took a drive through the bazaars, but we were 
warned not to visit any of the bazaars as the plague 
was prevalent. The number of bodies we saw car- 
ried to their burning ghats convinced us that this 
was no place in which to linger. I was determined 
to see all the most interesting places; but gave up 
going to Lucknow, as they had not only a visitation 
of the plague there, but the smallpox as well. 

No doubt it would be of interest to my readers 
to get a glimpse through my American eyes of one 
of the English soldiers we saw on guard at this 
place. His trousers were Scotch plaid, his coat and 

10s 



HISTORIC DELHI 

hat the regular English uniform, and his feet were 
bare. Noticing his uncovered feet, I asked him if 
he were not afraid of the plague or of scorpions. 
He answered me with a strong burr, " Well, ma'am, 
I have thought of that; but my boots hurt my corns, 
and I tread over this road so often that no animal 
could cross without my seeing it. I do not let any- 
body else come here, and never a native dares put 
his foot inside that enclosure there. When I leave 
my duty, I put on my boots." 

The effects of the mutiny are here apparent, and 
raises sympathy for those brave men and women 
who were so foully murdered at that time. One 
may readily understand why none of the natives are 
permitted to carry arms of any kind, not even a 
good-sized jack-knife; but for protection against 
snakes and wild animals each man and woman is 
permitted to carry a long staff of bamboo, usually 
twice their own height in length. 

In regard to the customs of the natives as af- 
fecting the people they are serving, the sweepers 
are never permitted to go inside of your sleeping 
apartment under any circumstances, nor are they 
permitted to wear their foot-covering. They wear 
their shoes to the very entrance of your apartment, 
then they take them off ; but the head must be cov- 
ered, and they must wear a sash tied around the thin 
piece of covering, which does not always reach to 
the knees. The care-taker who serves you never 
enters your apartment without uncovering his head, 

109 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

but he keeps on his loose sandals, which he never 
wears outside, always going barefooted and carry- 
ing his sandals in his loose belt. As this is one of 
the means of carrying the plague, every traveller is 
warned never to put his bare feet on the floor. Any 
of these customs disregarded is a cause for imme- 
diate punishment, and the English officer or the 
travelling public is permitted to chastise these 
people with the little cane already described. 

By getting off the road at Umballa we found 
we had saved ourselves a very disagreeable ferry- 
crossing at that place, where there are bad dry 
gullies with deep sand through which your car must 
be pulled across the Tangri by the natives. There 
is nothing at Umballia excepting a military can- 
tonment. 

We left Cawnpore, deciding to go to Allahabad, 
which is one hundred and twenty- four miles by fine 
level roads. 



■<&><■ 




' -?' '*-:'-.■ 




JUDGE NEHRTj's HOME AT ALLAHABAD 

X 

THE GRANDEUR OF AN ORIENTAL HOME 

WE reached Allahabad about nine o'clock at 
night, and stopped at the dak bungalow. 
For some reason which we did not under- 
stand at that time, the proprietor of the hotel did 
not seem particularly anxious to show us rooms. 
The place was thickly settled, and there is only one 
hotel, and that a miserable excuse for one; and as 
this was the season for the religious ceremonies, 
the tom-toms were going all night long, rilling the 
air with a din that was almost maddening. We 
were therefore glad to seek any shelter for the 
night. 

We came to Allahabad with a great deal of 
pleasure, for here we were expecting to meet our 
steamer acquaintance, Judge Nehru, who had prom- 
ised me a ride on an elephant; so we accepted the 
quarters given us, and partook of a simple and 

in 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

badly cooked meal which was served by barefooted 
and barelegged Indian waiters dressed in pictu- 
resque white turbans and scarfs. 

At about seven o'clock the next morning, I 
heard a great commotion in the square, where my 
motor-car had been left, outside my window as 
usual. I looked out and saw two servants in livery, 
who were gesticulating and talking with my Indian 
boy, and salaaming at a great rate. I opened the 
door and inquired the cause of all the commotion. 
1 was informed in broken English that friends were 
in the drawing-room, waiting to see me at once. I 
immediately followed one of the salaaming ser- 
vants, and there found Miss Hooper and Judge 
Nehru's little daughter, awaiting me with looks of 
consternation on their faces. They said that we 
had been expected at the house last night, and thai- 
Judge Nehru had the only two entrances known to 
him watched until midnight for us, and had just 
heard that we had come in by another route. They 
had traced us to this hotel, and were very much 
provoked at the proprietor, who had not told them 
when they telephoned that we were there last night; 
probably because he had an eye to business. 

Outside the door I found a fine Fiat automobile 
with the tonneau beautifully lined with red satin. 
I was invited to go on with them, and have my car 
follow with Mr. Brooks, the rest of my party, and 
the baggage. I tried to explain that this was too 
much to expect from a perfect stranger, and that I 

112 



THE GRANDEUR OF AN ORIENTAL HOME 

had never met Mrs. Nehru ; hut Miss Hooper with 
her very sweet English voice soon convinced me that 
this was of no consequence in India ; that I had been 
invited by the head of the house, and everything was 
at my disposal. Here the man certainly rules. I 
must confess I was not at all sorry to leave the 
Great Northern Hotel, for the rooms were very 
dirty, and, Maria informed me, were inhabited by 
any number of " crimson ramblers." 

We were soon rolling through a magnificent 
park, with miniature lakes on each side. I was 
informed that this was a part of the park belonging 
to Judge Nehru, and we gradually wound around a 
beautiful drive toward a magnificent white marble 
building, surrounded with flowers in pots, rose- 
bushes, cocoanut trees, date palms, and all the trop- 
ical plants one could imagine. As we drew near the 
grand entrance my heart began to beat, as I saw 
about seventy-five servants drawn up in line. At 
one side were two magnificent elephants, one of 
which was the largest I have ever seen — not even 
Jumbo of Barnum's Circus compared with him — 
kneeling down to welcome me. I was afterward 
informed that the trapping for these elephants, the 
magnificent gold and silver hand-embroidered how- 
dahs, cost over twenty thousand dollars. 

The two nieces, wives of nephews of Judge 
Nehru, dressed in sarais and with beautiful gems, 
were at the entrance to receive me. I noticed they 
were a little bit frightened, and so was I; but this 

8 113 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

soon wore off under their cordial greeting, and had 
I not known I was in India, I might have thought 
myself in the drawing-room of some smart English 
lady. During my visit in this charming home, at 
the door leading out from the court into my room, 
and the one leading into the garden, two servants 
were in constant attendance, but after the second 
day, after the novelty wore off, I found them nearly 
always sleeping. After they had expressed their 
regret that I had arrived last evening without their- 
knowledge, and chided me for not having tele- 
graphed Judge Nehru what time they could expect 
me, I was escorted to my rooms. Everything the 
heart, eye, or personal comfort could desire was 
spread before me. Magnificent rugs covered the 
floor; beautiful pieces of statuary were there, and 
Benares bronzes; nothing stuffy, but everything 
speaking of good taste. I hardly dared ask where 
my servants were, or what had become of Mr. 
Brooks and the baggage, but Maria and Albert 
soon appeared, with my native boy, walking in a 
little more dignified fashion than usual and salaam- 
ing with great gravity. Servants followed, carrying 
my baggage. Maria looked frightened because she 
had dared to let out of her hands for the first time 
a small leather bag in which I carried my jewelry 
and letters of credit, and which I entrusted only to 
her keeping. She informed me that she had had 
quite a tussle over them, but that two servants had 
been too much for her. They had a hard time con- 

114 



THE GRANDEUR OF AN ORIENTAL HOME 

vincing her that they were not going to rob her. 
She insisted on their walking ahead, and they in- 
sisted on following a little behind, and they finally 
reached my apartment in this order, Maria a little 
in advance. 

I was told that my servants would sleep in a tent 
about one hundred feet away, and here also Honkie 
and my cage of birds were placed. Mr. Brooks 
would be obliged to sleep in a tent about one hun- 
dred and fifty feet away, as it was against their 
custom to permit a white man to sleep under the 
same roof with them. They said to me, " Madam, 
you are the first white lady that we have had the 
honor to entertain in our home, and it gives us great 
pleasure to welcome you to our poor India." 

The two ladies remained in my room, and I 
suggested their taking seats, which they promptly 
did, and I then understood that they considered this 
apartment the same as my own. They asked if I 
found everything I wanted, and I replied that it 
looked as though there was more than I could pos- 
sibly need to make me comfortable. 

Imagine, if possible, what it meant to one thou- 
sands of miles away from home, in a strange land, 
where a strange language was spoken, suddenly to 
find oneself transported into such a magnificent 
home, with all one's dreams and fancies of oriental 
grandeur realized ! 

As Maria is inclined to be business-like, she took 
possession of the apartment, but was decidedly 

115 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

handicapped by the two servants, who insisted upon 
handling everything first. Upon my explaining to 
her that it was all right, she consented, though with 
an eye of suspicion. 

In some way that I never understood, Albert 
and my native servant were told that their presence 
was not needed in the house. I was informed that 
the family breakfasted at nine o'clock, and that 
Judge Nehru would then be in. I asked for Mrs. 
Nehru, but was told that she had been quite ill, and 
would see me in the afternoon at tea. I was told 
where the tents of my servants would be placed, 
and that any time I wanted one of them I needed 
only to clap my hands three times, and a native 
servant outside my door would immediately bring 
Maria. In this country, white men or women are 
never allowed to do any manual work, or they would 
lose caste. 

At breakfast-time I was escorted into a perfectly 
arranged English dining-room, where my host 
greeted me as if I was an old friend, telling me that 
his little wife had not been well, and that she 
regretted very much not being able to receive me, 
but that he hoped his nieces had done all that was 
necessary for my comfort. He asked about my trip 
from Bombay, and was glad that I had come 
through saf ely so far ; he had feared that we would 
experience some difficulty. The Judge had already 
looked over my car and considered it a perfect 
wonder. He had owned a motor-car for two years, 

116 



THE GRANDEUR OF AN ORIENTAL HOME 

but had never dared venture to Delhi in it, as he 
feared the roads and the travelling would be impos- 
sible. We sat down to breakfast, and a delicious 
breakfast it was. He told me that the next day the 
elephant would be at my service, and that I could 
spend as much time as I pleased on its back, or make 
short excursions, returning to the house whenever 
I felt tired. After breakfast he left me with the 
ladies, and we began to get acquainted with each 
other in short order. They confessed that while 
they kept up this English way of living, they much 
preferred their native way, and they asked whether 
I preferred living in the English or the Hindu 
manner while there. I confessed to wanting to live 
in the Hindu manner, so was escorted into a beau- 
tiful room with velvet cushions spread about, and 
we reclined in Hindu fashion. 

One of the first things I noticed at Allahabad 
was the use of the betel nut and leaf, which they all 
seemed to enjoy. This seems to be composed of the 
nut chopped up and mixed with some sort of paste 
inside the leaf. I tried it, and it tasted a little like 
quinine, but it had no particular effect on me that 
I could notice, although it stains the lips a bright 
red. Children sell this betel leaf on the streets in 
India, just as the children in our country sell news- 
papers. They use it as American children use 
chewing-gum. 

The children of the wealthy class are never in 
evidence, but are kept in the nurseries with the 

117 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

proper nurses. The mother visits them there and 
spends hours with them, seeing that they are receiv- 
ing the proper care and instruction. More polite 
and good-tempered children I have never met. 

My little birds were all left in their native land, 
for Maria, wishing to change the water inside the 
cage, forgot to close the door, and when she 
returned they had all flown out into the trees. I 
am glad now that they have their freedom, and were 
left in their native country. 

At the table the gentlemen all sat on one side 
and the ladies on the other, as they do not believe 
in mixing the sexes in India. At the far end of the 
table I noticed a Hindu gentleman dressed in the 
native costume. In front of him was a small silver 
tray standing on four little legs about four inches 
high, and on this tray were a number of little china 
dishes containing only vegetables. I was informed 
that he was a brother-in-law of Judge Nehru, and a 
very strict Hindu. The nephews, of whom there 
were five or six, were the same as sons to the Judge, 
as their father had died and left them to his guard- 
ianship. He had sent them all at different times 
to Oxford and Cambridge for a thorough English 
education at his own expense. Five of them had 
married when young, and their wives were all living 
in the house with Judge Nehru. As the family 
increased, or one married, they thought nothing of 
building an addition around the court, or starting 
a new house with a new court in the centre. 

us 



THE GRANDEUR OF AN ORIENTAL HOME 

How restful, peaceful, and beautiful the court 
was, as we wandered out after our meals! The 
court was all white marble, with palms arranged 
tastefully about, the fountain playing, and cushions 
lying here and there, all inviting to rest and repose. 

After breakfast we retired to the boudoir of one 
of the nieces, and there sat and visited. They told 
me of their lives in Allahabad. One informed me 
that she had just started a Woman's Club, but 
laughingly remarked that they had but five mem- 
bers, and that these were very indifferent, except 
that it gave them an excuse to get out. ' You know 
we Hindu ladies never go about or visit except with 
our husbands," she explained, " but, having been 
educated in the West, we feel ourselves very far 
behind the times. I am a Christian, you see " — 
drawing up her sleeve and showing me a tattooed 
mark on her arm. She also explained to me that the 
different marks on the foreheads of the people 
showed to what caste they belonged. She told me 
that she, with her uncle, was trying to prevent the 
early marrying custom, as they considered that 
India was losing by such unnatural relations as 
marrying a girl seven years old to a boy of nine. 
The parents made the marriage arrangements en- 
tirely, the children not even seeing each other until 
the marriage day; and it was easy to understand 
that there could be no sympathy or love such as we 
know. They all laughed at the idea of any senti- 
ment between two people as man and wife, outside 

119 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

of their children. As soon as the marriage arrange- 
ments are settled, the bride-elect goes to live with 
her mother-in-law, and there she is taught every- 
thing that the mother considers proper for her son's 
happiness and comfort. They seemed to think that 
education lessened the desire of a man to possess 
more than one wife at a time, as he did not care to 
assume the responsibility. 

They were also in sympathy with the fact that 
the English government had forbidden burning the 
widow on the bier with her husband's body, a custom 
that still exists in some places. When a man dies all 
jewelry and everything that represents worldly 
pleasures are taken from the widow, her hair is 
closely cropped, and she is bound and put on the 
funeral pyre with her husband's body and burned, 
the dead and the living together. These women feel 
that their lives are ended when their " god," as they 
look upon their husbands, is taken from them ; and 
they think that possibly they have committed some 
terrible sin, and that this is their punishment. They 
feel that they have no business to live after all their 
sunlight and joy is gone. 

One of the ladies turned to me and said: " You 
loved your husband? " 

" Yes." 

" You are a widow? " 

" Yes." 
' Was life the same to you after his death? " 

And I frankly answered: " No, it was not and 

120 



THE GRANDEUR OF AN ORIENTAL HOME 

it never will be; but we consider that widows have 
work to accomplish in the world after the husband's 
death, just the same as during his lifetime." 

I found that my little friends were fully in- 
formed as to the value placed upon widows, not 
only in America, but in England also; and they 
knew that widows stood a better chance of marrying 
than spinsters. They had evidently read about the 
conditions existing in the western countries in this 
respect, and they were very curious to know more 
about it. Divorce is rarely, if ever, known in India, 
and marriage is looked upon in a very business-like 
manner. It is considered absolutely necessary, as a 
woman who is unsuccessful in getting a husband is 
looked upon as being under a curse, and as having 
no use in life. Their one idea is the propagation 
of the human race, and both parents have the great- 
est j^ride in raising boys, because they make soldiers. 
I understood that where two girls have been born 
in a family, and there are many boys, the birth of a 
third daughter would mean that her life would end 
with her birth, the mother not even seeing the little 
one. This is looked upon as perfectly legitimate. 

They also told me that it was considered a sin for 
a Hindu to travel very far away from his home, 
except to make pilgrimages to the sacred river each 
year, or once in twelve years. If a Hindu antici- 
pates leaving home, he must fast for a number of 
days before, and must feast his friends both before 
going away and upon his return. He is compelled 

121 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

to sit at his own liberally supplied board and touch 
nothing, but must continually pray. He must also 
pay a penalty in pearls or in gold for the benefit of 
some priest who, during his absence, will pray for 
his safe return, or he will lose caste. 

None of the Hindus eat meat of any description, 
being vegetarians in the fullest sense of the word. 
They do not eat much butter either, but a great deal 
of sugar and sweets. One of the desserts given me 
at the farewell dinner here was a pudding that 
tasted like our rice pudding, but the top of it was 
covered with pure gold leaf which we ate with the 
pudding. They also served one covered with silver. 

After luncheon we strolled around the park, and 
I wish I could take all my friends there with me, 
for there were surprises for the American at almost 
every step. As we wandered out through a beau- 
tiful walk, on each side a hedge of beautiful fragrant 
roses filling the air with their sweet odor, we sud- 
denly came to a temple, and I was invited to enter 
and sit on a cushion. I did so, and immediately 
heard a sound like falling rain on the roof. It was 
explained to me that Judge Nehru had brought 
from the Ganges water which was forced upward 
above the roof, where numerous pipes with small 
holes in them had been placed, and the water played 
through these pipes on the roof, giving the effect of 
rain, as for seven and sometimes eight months they 
never see a drop of rain in India. When it does 

122 



THE GRANDEUR OF AN ORIENTAL HOME 

rain, during the monsoon season, it comes in 
torrents. 

They were delighted to show me their newest 
inventions in the way of electric lights, as they had 
run the wires through the hedge and up into this 
temple. The vari-colored electric light bulbs turned 
the place into a veritable fairyland. 

We wandered on through the gardens, Judge 
Nehru's little daughter picking blue and white 
violets which she presented to me. When they 
learned that they were my favorite flowers, and my 
birthday flower, I found a large bunch of these 
violets placed on my tray with coffee each morning. 
It was hard to believe that I was walking in what a 
missionary would describe as a " heathen land." 

One of the gentlemen who had accompanied us 
suddenly left ; and Judge Nehru, stopping in front 
of a cave which was literally covered with different 
colored flowers, exclaimed: "And Great Allah 
said, Let there be water ; and there was water from 
the Ganges." And immediately from the nose, 
mouth, and eyes of a most ferocious-looking image 
in the cave water came pouring forth. This image 
is called " The God of the Ganges." I was sur- 
prised, and, noticing they were all watching my face, 
I asked, " What wonderful mystery is this? " and 
looked around to see if I could find a button or some- 
thing that Judge Nehru might have pressed with his 
foot. Suddenly from the rear of the cave appeared 
a laughing face with merry eyes, and a voice said, 

123 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

"What do you think of that, Mrs. Fisher?" It 
was explained to me that the gentleman who had 
left us so suddenly had turned the water on from 
the rear of the cave. It was all so mysterious and 
beautiful that I was sorry to have my mind disillu- 
sioned. 

We returned to the afternoon tea-room, and for 
the first time in my life I had a cup of real tea ! It 
was delicious, and I cannot remember how many 
times I permitted my cup to be filled. During the 
tea-drinking a man appeared whose costume con- 
sisted of a piece of cheese-capping or soft white 
muslin tied around his waist, and over this an Eng- 
lish shirt, fastened at the collar band with a beau- 
tiful pearl stud or button, and more pearl buttons 
down the front of the bosom. The shirt flowed 
loosely, not being tucked in, and it gave the impres- 
sion of the man having been suddenly called out 
before his toilet was completed, as his brown bare 
legs appeared below this shirt. The usual Hindu 
toilet is a close-fitting white coat, buttoned down to 
the waist. 

Judge Nehru said something to this gen- 
tleman in Hindustanee which I did not understand, 
but I saw a look of pain and confusion come across 
the poor man's face and a tinge of red appeared on 
his cheek as he hurriedly departed from the room. 
Then Judge Nehru said, " Mrs. Fisher, I hope you 
will not be shocked, but I did not intend you to see 
my friend in this costume, but he really knew no 

124 



THE GRANDEUR OF AN ORIENTAL HOME 

better, and I told him he might shock you by ap- 
pearing in the drawing-room with nothing on but 
his chemise ! " This suggested to me the well-known 
story of the Irishwoman's retort to the Chinaman 
who complained of feeling cold, which story I told 
them, to their great amusement. I found here an 
opportunity to unload every old joke and story I 
had ever heard, for it was very pleasing to note the 
appreciation and pleasure with which they listened. 
I had always understood from the English that the 
Hindus were a serious people, and I could hardly 
believe my own eyes and ears, for a more cheerful 
and merry family party I have never seen in any 
country. 

To my satisfaction Honk-Honk was well re- 
ceived and petted, and was fed with so many cakes 
and sweets that I feared for his health. 

After tea, Miss Hooper, the English companion, 
informed me that Mrs. Nehru would see me, and I 
was escorted through the court to another part of 
the house, where two servants, one standing at each 
side of the door, threw it open. For a moment I 
stood almost wanting to rub my eyes, for I could 
see nothing but a beautiful mass of color. Then, 
sitting on one side of a raised platform, covered with 
beautiful Turkish rugs, I saw Mrs. Nehru, a tiny 
little woman with great brown eyes and a face of 
great loveliness. 

I approached her and made a courtesy, and she- 
reached out both her hands and looked into my face, 

125 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

and presented her cheek for me to kiss. Miss 
Hooper afterward told me this was the sincerest 
welcome ever given in a Hindu home. Since Mrs. 
Nehru spoke no English, Miss Hooper acted as 
interpreter between us. I told her how I appre- 
ciated Judge Nehru's hospitality, and how thor- 
oughly I was enjoying it, and she asked through our 
interpreter if I really liked her Hindu home ? And 
was it not strange to me? And was I made quite 
comfortable? I informed her that nothing more 
could possibly be done to make me more comfort- 
able, and that I found an " at home " feeling there 
that I had not experienced since I left my own 
home. Fearing to trespass too long on her strength, 
as I could see she was far from well, I made my 
farewell salaam by putting both palms together and 
giving the Hindu salute which I had learned from 
observing the Hindu ladies. 

I was then left to write letters, read, and rest 
until dinner-time. 

The dinner was served in the English fashion 
in the English dining-room, and a most delicious 
dinner it was. Mr. Brooks, Judge Nehru, and I 
were the only ones who partook of meat. The 
Hindu servants will not even cook meat, and they 
are compelled to have a Mohammedan chef for that 
purpose. 

While we were sitting at the table, I heard from 
an adjoining court the most weird, thrilling, and 
charming music I had ever heard, not loud to drown 

126 



THE GRANDEUR OF AN ORIENTAL HOME 

the voices at the table, but just a pleasant accom- 
paniment to the conversation. 

After dinner we retired to the drawing-room, 
and here, seated on cushions in a semicircle, were 
five musicians, dressed in the most gorgeous cos- 
tumes, with Oriental embroideries that were worth 
their weight in gold, and with turbans of gorgeous 
cloth woven by hand in colors that are fascinating. 
As we entered the room, they all saluted me, saying 
something which Judge Nehru interpreted by say- 
ing, " They are calling you the Princess from the 
Land of Promise." 




' ".v. ., > 




1 *, 1 




WE BIDE THE ELEPHANT TO THE GANGES 

XI 

THE SACRED GANGES 

IT is not possible to describe that music. It was 
strikingly different from any I had ever 
heard. They used instruments I have never 
seen outside of a museum, and some of them not 
even there. After the music, they began to recite ; 
and then appeared a priest dressed in a still more 
gorgeous costume, who, after salaaming, seated 
himself on a velvet cushion and told us stories. 

We were up early the following morning, as the 
elephants were to be ready and waiting by eight 
o'clock. Later the sun would be so hot we might 
not be able to stand it ; therefore, it would be better 
to get an early start to visit the banks of the Ganges, 
where millions of people had arrived for their bath 
in the sacred river, 

128 



THE SACRED GANGES 

A gorgeous sight met our eyes as we beheld the 
elephants dressed in their holiday garb, gold covers, 
hand-worked, the howdahs on their backs looking 
like golden chariots covered with hammered gold 
and silver. The driver, a man sitting over the head 
of the elephant with a long stick and a short spear, 
was dressed in a gorgeous red and yellow uniform. 
Perhaps P. T. Barnum visited the East to get his 
ideas of a circus parade. 

I was to have the seat of honor, the two nieces 
next, and Maria was invited to go along, to show, I 
supposed, that I had a " lady in waiting." Mr. 
Brooks looked as though an automobile was more to 
his taste, but we all climbed the ladders and took 
our seats in the howdahs. Getting into the seats was 
easy enough, as the elephants were made to kneel, 
while four men with spears held them in check. 
When it came to getting on their feet the trouble 
began, as we were all thrown suddenly backward, 
then forward, and then both ways. When the ele- 
phant finally gets on his feet, you feel high up in 
the air. I was told that my elephant was fifty years 
old. The one on which Mr. Brooks rode was only 
twenty years old, a female, and decidedly mischiev- 
ous. It requires more men to keep her in order. 

Then began a swinging seesaw motion for the 
banks of the Ganges. We had a perfect view from 
the elephant's back, and Judge Nehru was quite 
right in saying there was no better way to see this 
grand throng. I learned that the Judge had to get 

9 129 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

permission from the government to have the ele- 
phants appear in the streets at this time of day, as, 
on account of the English officers' horses being 
frightened by the elephants, there had been a law 
passed forbidding them to appear in the streets 
except at certain hours, for special reasons, and by 
special permission. 

We passed groups of naked men sitting on hot 
ashes, and I know they were really hot, for I insisted 
on descending and putting my finger in the ashes, 
thinking they merely had the appearance of being 
hot from reflection in some way, but I blistered my 
finger, and proved that I did not belong to a sacred 
tribe ! 

Every few minutes a litter or dandie would pass 
us, carried on the shoulders of four men, and a pair 
of black eyes would peep out at us from between 
the curtains. These litters contained Hindu ladies, 
possibly of great position, being carried down to 
their bath in the sacred river, as every one is sup- 
posed to wash away his or her sms in this manner. 
It was all very pitiful, but they believe that in this 
way they will be saved, and that should they die on 
the morrow, they would become beautiful animals. 
No one is permitted to look upon the faces of these 
ladies, but the Judge's family showed their inde- 
pendence by appearing with me with their faces 
uncovered. I understood afterward that this was 
the first time they had ever done so. 

One could but respect the faith of these people, 
as we saw some poor old man with death stamped 

130 



THE SACRED GANGES 

on his features, being carried along by faithful sons 
or friends on a couch to the sacred river, to have his 
farewell bath; and you knew the couch would soon 
be his bier. 




A FANATIC AT THE GANGES 



Almost any river in America, even our muddy 
Delaware, is more picturesque than the sacred 
Ganges ; except where the hands of man have built 
temples and beautiful shrines in acknowledgment 
of their belief in the holiness and purity of this far- 
famed river. 

133 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

Some of the people were merry-making; chil- 
dren were playing all sorts of games, and here and 
there beggars were asking for bread. When they 
ask for bread, they mean just that. All along my 
journey through India I often met people asking 
for bread, and when I offered them money, they 
placed their hands behind them and refused to take 
it, then pointed to their mouths and put their hands 
on their stomach, signifying that they wanted some- 
thing to eat. We often shared our last loaf with 
these poor people. 

Apropos of the hunger of the people, I quote a 
letter I received while in Allahabad: 

" Madam, 

" My most humble and respectful submission on behalf of 
some of my poor country brethren is that at least one out of 
lakhs and krores of distresses conditions of India should be 
brought to your most kind notice here. Madam, you know very 
well that present -India is nothing but a picture of extreme 
poverty personified. A few towns with a few palacial buildings 
and occupiers therein are just like a few twinkling stars when 
dense pieces of clouds have appeared and are spreading their 
way rapidly on; sunken faces, worn out naked bodies and 
hungry mouths are the real scenaries of present India. And 
any kind tourist losing an opportunity to detect these things 
is sure to court failure of his or her object with a false idea 
that anything that glitters is gold, — India is happy. So you 
are humbly requested to have a visit to Allahabad Orphanage 
amongst your other noble engagements. Real scenaries of 
course are in the villages, but any how this is a particle of them. 

" With humble respects, 

" Yours obediently." 
134 



THE SACRED GANGES 

I was unable to find time to visit this Orphanage, 
as requested. I had been told not to give a gold 
piece to any of these poor people, as they would 
rather starve than use it in any way, except to make 
necklaces or ornaments of some kind. In this way 
the gold is withdrawn from circulation. 

After spending several hours at the Ganges, on 
the backs of the elephants, we decided to return. It 
was most interesting to watch these immense beasts 
treading along through the crowds of people. Here 
and there were snake-charmers trying to earn a few 
pennies with their exhibitions; and people selling 
small wares or rice or potatoes, all on the ground. 
The elephants moved on among them, feeling the 
way with their trunks, lifting their feet with great 
care and refusing to take a step forward until they 
knew they were doing no damage. 

After luncheon we invited our hosts to take a 
drive with us in our motor-car, and we travelled in 
and out and around this most interesting city. Alla- 
habad is the ancient Pray Aga, which was built by 
the Hindus and held sacred by them. It is about 
three miles from the conjunction of the Ganges and 
the Jumma, of which a most excellent view is ob- 
tained from the Fort. This Fort was built by 
Akbar, and was named by him Allahabad, meaning, 
" The City of God." There is an interesting arsenal 
here, and the native quarter is quite distinct from 
the European part, which has been built since the 
mutiny, and is called Cannington. 

135 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

Judge Nehru told us he had an American engine 
in a small motor-boat lying at the head of the 
Ganges, but that he had had only one ride in the 
boat, as his engineer did not understand the Amer- 
ican engine ; so at my suggestion we drove out to 
where the little boat was lying, and Mr. Brooks 
investigated it. The engine was one of a kind with 
which he was acquainted, and he soon found and 
remedied the difficulty. In less than half an hour 
our party was gliding over the Ganges, getting a 
different view of the crowds of people. At this time 
they were boiling their kettles of water and cooking 
their simple meals. As we returned after sundown 
— for night approaches very quickly in India — the 
thousands of lighted fires along the river-bank made 
a mystic scene which was not less than awe- 
inspiring. 

My curiosity being aroused as to how one would 
feel in a native Hindu dress, I expressed a desire to 
possess a sardee, and my charming little hostesses 
immediately proposed dressing me as a Hindu 
before dinner. Such an array of beautiful gowns 
as they brought into my dressing-room! Two of 
my friends selected a costume which they thought 
would be appropriate. As I had been married and 
was a widow, I had to have a certain costume, and, 
to their delight, they found among my jewels a 
rope of pearls, with pearl tassels, which had be- 
longed to my mother. I could not imagine why they 
should exclaim so over those pearls, but it seems 

136 



THE SACRED GANGES 

that this was a sign that I was married, as all 
married women wear the ropes of pearl with the 
tassels, but they had to be tied about my head with 
the tassels hanging over my left ear. I submitted 
to their dressing and decorations, and was most 
agreeably surprised to find how comfortable I felt. 
When I looked in the mirror, I hardly recognized 



MRS. FISHER AND JUDGE NEHRU S DAUGHTERS IN HINDU DRESS 

the figure that stood there. The costume was 
becoming, and the comfort is not to be described. 
No pins, no buttons, simply ten yards of straight 
goods cut the length of the skirt, pleated in front 
and back, and tied in the indescribable knot that 
only a Hindu knows how to tie; then about two 
yards left to be looped up over your head and droop 
gracefully over the left shoulder. It is thought very 

137 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

immodest for a lady to expose her head, and Hindu 
ladies consider decolletee gowns immodest. 

The gentlemen complimented me when we 
entered the drawing-room before dinner, and I 
made a salaam with my hands in the Hindu manner. 
After dinner we were entertained by native dancers. 
When I asked if the Hindu ladies danced, they 
smilingly answered, as they took sly peeps at their 
husbands, that they thought dancing made people 
look like monkeys, and that the}^ saw no grace nor 
pleasure in it. Only people who had to earn their 
living and had not other way of doing it descended 
to dancing. 

The time came all too soon when I felt that I 
must leave this enchanted spot. On the morning of 
my departure, I was shown the Hindu dining-room, 
where I found the little low tables and cushions on 
the floor | but I noticed that wherever I walked, a 
servant followed me and, in spite of the expostula- 
tions of my host, carefully wiped the floor whereon 
I had stood, as he considered me not sacred enough 
to stand in this most highly honored room. 

It was much easier to think of leaving than to 
accomplish it, as we were pressed to remain. I had 
expected to leave early in the morning of February 
11th, but finally consented to stay until after lunch- 
eon, when, with tears of regret in our eyes, and 
promises on both sides to meet some time in the 
future, we said farewell. 




IN THE MAHARAJA OF BEXARES D AX DIE 



XII 
HIS HIGHNESS THE MAHARAJA OF BENARES 



E 



EAVING Allahabad about half past one, we 
l reached the banks of the Ganges, which 
we were obliged to cross on pontoon 
bridges. The crossing is a zigzag one, about five 
miles in all from the left bank to the right. Here 
we found a number of bullock carts, with all sorts 
of commodities. Two bare-legged outrunners ran 
ahead to see that everything was clear for our 
passage, and after we had got across, these two 
men, in the uniform of Judge Nehru's house, 
salaamed to us, and we then discovered that all 
the rest of these people had been kept waiting for 
us. Our delayed farewells had caused them a long 
wait; but we saw no impatient looks, only smiles 
and salaams greeting us on every side. I felt like 
offering an apology for keeping them waiting so 

139 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

long, for these poor men probably had miles to 
travel before reaching their journey's end, and 
night would overtake them while still on the road. 
Among other courtesies for which I was grate- 
ful to Judge Nehru, were the introductions which 
he seemed to have a way of presenting before I 
reached a place. Among the people he wished me 




THE PRINCESS INDRARAJA OF BARODA, INDIA 

to meet was His Highness the Maharaja of Ba- 
roda, and Her Highness the Maharani of Baroda. 
The latter is a woman of great charm and poise. 
With the retiring dignity and modesty of the East, 
she preserves the strict purdah of her rank and caste 
while in India, but travels abroad with her husband 
in the European fashion, although without discard- 
ing the graceful folds of her sari. Their High- 
nesses have a daughter and three sons. 

140 



HIS HIGHNESS THE MAHARAJA OF BENARES 

Her Highness treated me with every courtesy, 
and we met afterward at Colombo, and later spent 
three months together, His Highness having 
become so interested in our tour that he took his 
thirty-horse-power Fiat and joined us in our motor- 
ing trip in Japan. 

From Allahabad to Benares is seventy-six 
miles, and about fifty miles of this road is in good 
condition. We stopped at a dak bungalow for the 
night, cooking our own meals, as usual. We were 
up bright and early the following morning, and 
after partaking of a good cup of coffee and fresh 
eggs, we started for Benares, arriving there about 
eleven o'clock in the morning of February 12th. 

In the city itself the roads are very narrow, and 
as there is a large native population and heavy 
traffic, one must take extra care in driving. There 
are few automobiles here. 

Benares is the sacred city of the Hindus. The 
temples and shrines number over five thousand. 
The Golden Temple, the Monkey Temple, and the 
Museum of Aurugzeb are among the most impor- 
tant sights. The Buddhist remains at Sarnath, 
four miles from the city, are well worth a visit. 
The Burning Ghats also are interesting. To see 
these, one hires a boat for a few rupees. 

We stopped at the first hotel in sight, engaged 
rooms, and prepared to unload our motor, when 
my attention was attracted to a fine-looking man in 
Indian costume. He presented his card to the 

143 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

manager of the hotel, who had rushed away from 
me in the midst of our conversation, at the sight of 
this stranger. The manager returned to me shortly 
with this same man, and with deep salaams pre- 
sented me with a card which bore the name of " Sen 
Roy, Private Secretary to H. H. the Maharaja of 
Benares." 

After saluting him, I awaited his commands, 
and in good English he presented to me the Maha- 
raja's compliments, offering the hospitality of the 
Rest House, which belongs to His Highness, and is 
where he entertains visitors of note, among them 
having been the Prince of Wales. Sen Roy said 
His Highness would be greatly grieved if Madam 
did not accept his hospitality in the same spirit in 
which it was offered, and that he, the private sec- 
retary, was. at my command from nine o'clock in 
the morning to any hour at night during my visit, 
which he trusted would be of long duration, in the 
sacred city of Benares. At first I hesitated, and 
turned to the proprietor of the hotel, for I had 
made arrangements with him for rooms. I thought 
he looked a little wistful that such rare birds should 
escape his net, but he said, " Madam, there is no 
alternative. I am at your commands always." 

The only person I had trouble in convincing 
that we were not going to be robbed or led astray 
was Mr. Brooks. He suggested all sorts of things 
that might happen if we went to a strange house 
where no one else was living; but my orders were 

144 



HIS HIGHNESS THE MAHARAJA OF BENARES 

carried out, and we again took our seats in the 
motor-car, Sen Roy leading the way in an open 
carriage, with two footmen and a driver. 

The Rest House now owned by His Highness 
of Benares is the house that Mr. Davies defended 
in the trying times of the mutiny. After our ablu- 
tions, and a dainty luncheon served by bare-legged 
slaves, we were ready for sightseeing with Sen Roy. 
We visited all the mosques and mausoleums we 
could, putting in a hard morning's work, and re- 
turning at two o'clock quite fatigued. About three 
o'clock His Highness sent his private carriage with 
two footmen, two coachmen, and two outrunners, 
and we drove outside the city for two hours, return- 
ing for tea. 

On the following day, the 13th of February, 
we were invited to pay our respects to His High- 
ness the Maharaja of Benares, at the palace at 
Ramnagar, at eleven o'clock. Sen Roy arriving 
with the carriage, we drove to the river Ganges, 
beside Ramnagar, and there found four bare- 
legged men dressed in red and yellow uniforms, 
with a so-called dandie, or chair. Mr. Brooks and 
Sen Roy following on foot, with Albert bringing 
up the rear, we proceeded to the river's edge, where 
at the foot of the bank we found a floating palace 
boat, arranged with gorgeous red and yellow cush- 
ions, on which I reclined, while ten strong men 
rowed us across the Ganges to the landing at Ram- 
nagar. Here were servants waiting to assist me 

10 145 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

into another dandie, and I was carried up the red 
velvet carpeted steps, covered thus in honor of my 
arrival, as I was afterward informed by Sen Roy. 
We were received in a small antechamber by a ven- 
erable old gentleman with a long beard, who wore 
a gorgeous turban, and had decorations almost cov- 
ering his left breast. 




AT THE RESIDENCE OF HIS HIGHNESS OF BENARES 

Two more servants, dressed in the yellow and 
red uniforms, drew aside curtains with a silver cord, 
and we found ourselves in the grand reception 
room. Through beautiful hangings at the side 
appeared His Highness of Benares, dressed in a 
magnificent costume, a rope of pearls about his 
neck, and his turban literally shining with rubies, 
diamonds, and sapphires. I confess that for a 
moment I felt diffident at the thought of speaking 
to this royal and gorgeous-looking personage. 
Seeing my embarrassment, he came forward and 
welcomed me to Benares, expressing the hope that 

146 



HIS HIGHNESS THE MAHARAJA OF BENARES 

I had received every attention and courtesy, and 
asking if I was pleased with his home city. I was 
delighted to find that he could speak such perfect 
English. Soon I was chatting away with him as 
though with an old friend. 

He delighted in asking questions as to how I 
had found the roads with my car; if I liked the 
country; if I had met with any difficulties; and if 
the natives were courteous and attentive, not giving 
me any annoyance (something he seemed to he 
anxious to know) . I answered all his questions sat- 
isfactorily. He asked if there was anything he 
could do for my amusement, and if I cared to see 
native dancing. I told him that I had already 
witnessed the native dancing in Allahabad, but that 
1 was very anxious to visit the famous workshops 
in Benares, and to see the Burning Ghats. He 
promised that I should see all I desired, and placed 
his yacht at my disposal. 

He had heard of my being in the iron business, 
and began to quiz me about it. I explained it to 
him briefly. He blushed like a boy when he in- 
formed me that he had invented a pig-sticker, and 
asked if I would like to look at it, and visit his 
Museum. I thanked him, and after a few minutes 
more of chat, and just before I was leaving, a ser- 
vant brought on a velvet cushion two chains, one of 
gold and yellow spun gold, the other of silver. The 
gold and yellow was put around my neck, these 
colors showing I had been married, while the silver 

147 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

chain, which represented the state of single blessed- 
ness, was thrown around the neck of Mr. Brooks. 
We were informed that these would show to all 
that we were the honored guests of His Highness. 
He gave me his photograph, and asked if I would 
like to have his autograph. 

I had been cautioned not to ask for Her High- 
ness, as His Highness has two wives, and they are 
very strict here, the ladies never being permitted 
to see any foreigners, keeping purdah strictly. 
However, I did get a glimpse of them later on. 

I invited His Highness to take a drive in my 
motor-car, but he raised his hands, saying, " Not 
just yet. I am thinking of it, but it is a little too 
rapid for this old world, according to my ideas. It 
must be splendid, however, to travel in your own 
car and go when and where you please, and I 
cannot yet understand how }'Ou had the courage to 
enter into our great land, India. Were you not 
afraid? " 

I replied, " Do I look frightened ? " and a 
smiling shake of the head was his answer. 

Saying farewell, we returned in the same com- 
fortable manner in which we had arrived. Upon 
reaching the Rest House, I was surprised to learn 
that a fleet-footed servant had arrived before us, 
who breathlessly presented me with one of the pig- 
stickers invented by His Highness, and given by 
him to " the first lady he had ever met who knew 
anything about iron." 

148 



HIS HIGHNESS THE MAHARAJA OF BENARES 

Sen Roy accepted an invitation to drive in our 
car, and we took him out for a fifty-mile drive, 
visiting some old ruins, and seeing interesting parts 
of Benares and the surrounding country, that I 
believe strangers seldom see. I was taken all 
through the private park of His Highness, and 
visited the private Mausoleum. I was also shown 
some magnificent specimens of lions which had been 
captured by some of His Highness's people, and 
was asked if I would enjoy shooting some of these 
animals. 




PIG-STICKER INVENTED BY HIS HIGHNESS OF BENARES 

Upon my showing a little hesitancy about 
taking this risk so far away from home, I was 
assured there was no danger to those doing the 
shooting, but that it would take several days 1 time, 
as it was necessary to send hundreds of slaves out 
to beat the brush and find the lion, and then drive 
him into an enclosure where the guests and the 
shooters sit high aloft in a temporary hammock 
built among the trees. Thev live in tents during; 
these hunts, and enjoy luxuries that even Sherry 
or Delmonico could hardly imitate. I declined to 

149 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

participate in this novel and exciting experience, 
however, as my time in India was limited. 

On the morning of the 14th, we were called at 
five o'clock, and, after a light breakfast, found the 
same carriage and servants awaiting to drive us to 
the river bank. There we were met by Sen Roy in 
His Highness's boat, propelled by eight men stand- 
ing on the paddle-wheel in the middle of the boat, 
and were taken down the Ganges. A few yellow 
marigolds were on the boat, this being the first day 
of spring, when every woman and child is supposed 
to wear some of these yellow flowers, and to deco- 
rate all the idols, the bulls, and the calves with a 
wreath, as a sign of the spring of the year. 




GETTING READY TO CROSS THE SONE RIVER 

XIII 
UNDER INDIA'S BURNING SUN 

A S we travelled on in the boat, grewsome sights 
A\ met our eyes. At the Burning Ghats we saw 
people carrying a corpse on their shoulders 
down to the river, where they gave the body its 
farewell bath with the shroud wrapped about it. 
Then it was allowed to dry in the sun, and as soon 
as it was dry enough — and it did not take long — 
the corpse was put on a pile of wood and burned. 
As soon as the body was completely consumed, 
they took a long-handled broom and swept the 
bones into the Ganges, first taking some of the 
ashes in the right hand and throwing them to the 
winds, while they repeated a prayer. Afterward, 
the poor of the city, widows with only rags wrapped 
around them, came down and gathered up the 
pieces of charcoal and bits of wood that were left, 
and carried them away to sell. 

151 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

While this was going on, I saw a young calf 
brought down and given a bath in the river. It did 
not seem to like it any too well, either, but the priest 
rubbed and dried it. While we were watching, a 
father came down to the river with a little child, 
possibly two or three years old, and paid the priest 
something to have his child touched with the sacred 
calf. The tail of the calf was put in the child's 
hand, but the calf, apparently not realizing what 
the bath meant, did not seem to be lively enough to 
please the father. Liveliness on the part of the 
calf at this time would indicate that the gods were 
pleased with the child and that he would be fortu- 
nate; otherwise, the child was doomed to mis- 
fortune. 

Here we saw also the sun-worshippers. How 
those fanatics are able to sit for hours, with their 
wide-open eyes gazing into the sun, and with a tea- 
pot in their hands filled with water from the 
Ganges, which, as it flows out drop by drop, is 
accompanied by a prayer, is beyond my compre- 
hension. 

The faith, the absolute belief, of these people in 
the sacredness of this river is astonishing. The 
Westerner cannot conceive it. 

We spent one day visiting the shops and the 
brass works, and watching the silversmiths ham- 
mering the silver and gold, and the men embroider- 
ing those beautiful serais. I managed to resist the 
temptation to buy at this time, lulling my desire 

152 




pern 



UNDER INDIA'S BURNING SUN 

by saying to myself that I might come again to this 
interesting land. 

Finally we had to say farewell to Benares, and. 
after bidding our friends adieu, we took our seats 
once more in the motor-car, and started toward 
Calcutta. 

The first day we made only a short run, from 
Benares to Dehri-on-Sone, which is about eighty 
miles. The road was level, but the surface was light 
and sandy, and there is only the one road. Here 
we were obliged to stop and make arrangements 
for crossing the river. These arrangements were 
made with the English chief engineer who was there 
in charge of the extensive stone works, as they were 
building a solid stone bridge across this river. This 
bridge they expect to have ready in 1914, and it 
will undoubtedly be a good, solid structure, as the 
English never do things by halves. 

The dak bungalow at which we were obliged to 
stop was old and dirty, with an old man in attend- 
ance, and a moth-eaten looking dog; but the devo- 
tion of the dirty old man to the dirty old dog was 
pathetic. Honk-Honk was curiously inclined, but 
I kept him closely watched, and did not allow him 
off the leash for a moment while we were in the 
neighborhood of that animal. 

Early the following morning we began to make 
preparations to cross the river. 

After enjoying a good cup of coffee, and filling 
our thermos bottles and canteens with the day's 

155 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

supply of boiled water, we arrived at the banks of 
the river just as the sun was rising and covering 
everything with its rosy glow. We found two long 
planks, only a little over a foot in width, reaching 
from the top of the steep bank down to the iron 
lighter on which we were to cross. Maria, Albert, 
and I decided that we would walk down, and Mr. 
Brooks took the risk of running the car on to the 
lighter. Ropes were fastened both front and rear, 
so that in case the car should slip, the men could 
pull it up. I think I can safely say that this feat 
was witnessed by a thousand people, for everybody 
for miles around seemed to have heard of the lady 
with a motor-car. For this crossing we paid fifty 
rupees. The river here is three miles across, and it 
took twenty-four men three hours to propel the 
iron lighter with its load, using the usual bamboo 
sticks for that purpose. 

After the sun had fairly risen, we felt its pierc- 
ing rays, as the iron apparently attracted the heat. 
It was the hottest trip I ever experienced. 

There were many wild geese and ducks, so Mr. 
Brooks and Albert, always on the lookout to keep 
the culinary department supplied, loaded their guns 
and prepared for action. Mr. Brooks was fairly 
successful, but Albert made the prize shot of the 
day, bringing down a wild duck that was fully three 
hundred feet away. One of the coolies jumped into 
the river, swam out to the rocks, and then waded 
and retrieved the game, returning to the boat in 

156 



UNDER INDIA'S BURNING SUN 

the same manner. They were beautiful birds, with 
golden-brown and green coloring, the tail feathers 
tipped with white, and the heads a yellow that shone 
in the sun like gold. They are known in India as 
Golden Head Ducks, and are considered very hard 
to shoot. It seemed almost wicked to kill anything 
so beautiful to satisfy human appetites. 

The curiosity and admiration of the coolies were 
amusing to behold. They fondled the guns as 
though they were the greatest treasures on earth, 
and fought fiercely among themselves for the blank 
cartridges, which they wished to hoard as souvenirs. 

For three hours we floated along, watching the 
well-developed muscles of our crew, and getting 
glimpses here and there of the landscape. At last 
we arrived at the opposite bank. 

The wind had suddenly sprung up, and there 
was quite a strong current, but six of our crew, with 
a rope between their teeth, sprang over the side of 
the lighter and swam toward what appeared, from 
where we were, a bank too steep for us to ascend. I 
exclaimed, " Are we to go up that bank? How 
shall w r e ever get our car up there? " 

We had been thoughtful enough to bring our 
planks with us, and, after a few moments' consulta- 
tion, decided that if they would almost ground the 
lighter, we could possibly get up the bank; but I 
trembled over the prospect. What if the car should 
slip and fall off that narrow track into the soft 
mud! How could we ever rescue it, and if w r e did, 

159 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

in what condition would it be to resume our trip! 
But with brave hearts and trembling hands, we at 
last succeeded in landing the lighter on the nearest 
terra firma, and then the brave little coolies took up 
huge rocks from the sides of the bank with their 
bare hands, brought long bamboo poles which they 
put on the rocks, and so built up a temporary but- 
tress for the planks to rest on. There were several 
small boats pulled up on the bank out of the water 
— flat boats in which the passengers sit down in the 
boat while the men propel it with poles of bamboo. 
They have no oars, nor have they any wood with 
which to make them. 

And this was one thing that grieved me all 
through India, reminding me of the selfish acts of 
the men who are robbing our own prosperous land 
of its trees, also, and not providing for future gen- 
erations by planting at least one tree for every four 
cut down now. India is now suffering for the want 
of timber, and if it were not for the luxuriant 
growth of bamboo, and the fact that coal has been 
discovered in some parts, the poor people would be 
in a bad way. 

We made the landing in the midst of hundreds 
of people who were on the banks looking on, all 
aiding in every way possible to push and pull the 
heavy boats aside, and take out the big rocks, so 
that we could manage to run the car over the rough 
field and across the places where trees had been at 
one time, but now only stumps remained. Here 

160 



UNDER INDIA'S BURNING SUN 

we were glad that we had been thoughtful enough 
to have our car raised up so as to permit us to go 
over these stumps without doing any damage to 
the bottom of the car. It would have been impos- 
sible to do this had we not taken the precaution 
before we started on our trip. 

From Dehri-on-Sone we made a run of about 
twenty miles, and were agreeably surprised to find 
a bungalow on a high and dry knoll, surrounded 
with the jungle, but with roses and azaleas in full 
bloom — a sight I had never before witnessed at this 
time of the year. Here we decided to stop and rest, 
and give Maria a chance to do washing and ironing. 
I do not know that I have before mentioned the 
little alcohol iron we carried with us, which enabled 
Maria to iron my blouses, and shirts for the men 
(for we were always able to obtain alcohol), and 
thus make us fairly presentable when we entered a 
place where we were obliged to meet the always 
freshly and carefully groomed Englishmen. 

The care-taker of the dak bungalow was so im- 
pressed at the arrival of our party that he imme- 
diately spread down a new carpet in the room which 
I was to occupy. We of course furnished our own 
sleeping outfit, as usual. Mr. Brooks wandered out 
with his gun and shot some quail, and with our duck 
we had a delicious dinner — curried duck with rice, 
boiled potatoes, and some Indian mangoes which 
Antonio had discovered at one of the bazaars en 
route. We were not able to get bread, so we baked 

11 161 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

some muffins, using our flour and baking powder 
and cooking them on a flat pan over an open fire. 
In my childhood I had learned to make a fire in a 
sugar camp in Ohio, and this experience enabled 
me to show Albert how to build a fire in the jungle. 

Honk-Honk was allowed to roam at his own 
sweet will, and enjoyed the excitement; for we were 
simply surrounded with game of all sorts. Droves 
of deer would come to the very edge of the jungle 
and peep at us, then quickly disappear, leaping 
fully twenty yards at a bound, almost flying, and 
getting far away as fast as possible. They evi- 
dently did not like our appearance. 

Just as we were settling down for the evening, 
we were surprised at the sound of a motor-car, and 
we all rushed to the piazza to see if we were awake 
or dreaming. We saw a small motor-car contain- 
ing two Indian men headed for the dak bungalow, 
and I must say I felt a great deal of curiosity and 
pleasure, thinking we were to have neighbors for 
the night. One of the men jumped out and came 
toward me saying, " This is Mrs. Fisher, I believe, 
who is making a tour of the world in a motor-car? " 

I replied that he was correct, and he said, " We 
heard in a small village about forty miles away 
from here that you were on the way, and His High- 
ness, the Raja, who is the owner of all this land, 
wishes to offer you the hospitality of his Rest 
House, he now being in camp about thirty miles 
from here, on a tiger hunt. He has about two 

162 



UNDER INDIA'S BURNING SUN 

thousand coolies out whipping up the jungle for a 
couple of tigers, reported to be the greatest beauties 
that have been seen for years." 

The temptation to accept this invitation was 
great, but I answered that it was late, and that we 
were settled for the night. 

Mr. Brooks remarked, " Well, I think to-mor- 
row would be better. We are tired, and I have 
some work I want to do on the car." However, our 
oil was getting low, and we were still seventy miles 
from Gya, and this had worried Mr. Brooks not a 
little. Seeing another car, his first idea was to 
forage for fuel for the motor. He said, " I wonder 
if His Highness could spare me any oil. We have 
not seen a place for six hundred miles where we 
could get anything, and have been getting along on 
the supplies we received at the last station." 

The chauffeur, who had followed the first 
speaker, exclaimed, " Oh, yes, we can give you 
anything you want for your car. We have petrol 
by the barrel, oils, and everything." We therefore 
were moved to accept the invitation, and told them 
they could expect us by noon the following day. 

We had planned to remain at this bungalow for 
two or three days, as it looked inviting, and we real- 
ized that in a few more days we would reach Cal- 
cutta. It was then the middle of February, and, 
judging from our past experiences of entertain- 
ment by Rajas, I must say I rather enjoyed the 
prospect of again being the guest of one. The two 

163 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

men said farewell, after looking our car over and 
admiring its strength. 

It was a beautiful moonlight night, and we 
started out for a ramble to see some of the beautiful 
sights that presented themselves to us from this ele- 
vation of the knoll in the dense jungle Mr. Brooks 
carried his gun, and Albert a good strong stick. 
Honk-Honk also accompanied us. Our jaunt was 
cut short when we heard a rustling in the bushes, 
and a sound with which I was not at all familiar. 
Antonio exclaimed, " Cobras!" Our trip back to 
the bungalow was accomplished in short order. 

Our long journey, and the excitement of the 
previous day, made us all enjoy the night's rest, 
and it did not seem long before the morning sun 
awakened us with its terrible brightness. 

Our thinnest clothes, and as few of them as 
possible, were brought into use for the anticipated 
visit to the Rest House, where we expected to take 
lunch with the Raja. I envied the native his free- 
dom from the Western dress. Packing up again, 
we prepared to move on, much to the regret of all 
the party; for we had found an ideal spot, and the 
previous night's experience made us all the more 
eager to remain, as we felt certain that all our 
desires in regard to risks and adventures would be 
gratified. We were to experience other adventures, 
however, of a sort we little anticipated. 




AN EAST INDIAN ROAD 



XIV 
A NARROW ESCAPE FROM BRIGANDS 



FOLLOWING the directions given us by the 
two men, we started away about nine 
o'clock, expecting to arrive at the Rest 
House in a couple of hours, or at least in time for 
lunch. I remember taking a look at myself in the 
mirror before starting, to make sure that I was 
presentable. We had been several days now with- 
out seeing or speaking to any one, and I was be- 
ginning to long for companionship. Giving a 
lingering farewell look at our comfortable dak 
bungalow, we rolled away, watching out for the 
road, or rather path, in the jungle described by 
the man who called himself the " Royal Chauffeur." 
We met a number of people on the road, and from 
them Antonio inquired the way in Hindustanee. 

165 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

After considerable delay, we found ourselves 
following a rough path into the jungle, through 
which several elephants evidently had passed; and 
as the men had told us His Highness used elephants 
in the hunt, and as we also saw traces of the motor- 
car, which left grease tracks in the higher centre 
grass, we decided that we were on the right path. 
In some places we were obliged to stop and cut 
away the overhanging limbs after we had left the 
main road, for it was necessary to keep the top up 
on our machine on account of the hot sun. I had 
noticed the machine in which the men had visited us 
the night before had no top, so it could easily have 
preceded us. 

At last, about two o'clock, all tired and hungry, 
and inclined to be a little disagreeable, we saw ahead 
of us signs of habitation, and as we wished to make 
ourselves heard we tooted our horn. Suddenly 
Antonio, who knew the country fairly well, held up 
his hand and cautioned us to go slow, saying, " Me 
no like look of town. No Raja here. Me go ahead 
and find out, and Mem Sahib stop here." 

By this time Mr. Brooks had caught sight of a 
little tent with the side curtain turned up, and 
underneath it the little car we had seen the night 
before; so, paying no attention to our guide's cau- 
tions, he put on more power to show them how 
quickly our car could get to a place when we knew 
the way. To our consternation, about half a dozen 
naked men appeared, not giving us the welcome we 

166 



A NARROW ESCAPE FROM BRIGANDS 

had anticipated, but looking at us with a vicious 
smile, as a cat looks at a mouse when it knows the 
poor creature cannot escape. 

Antonio did not leave the car, but called out, 
asking for the head man. Then from a tent a little 
farther on appeared the two men who had visited 
us the night previous, and I smiled and began to 
take notice. But somehow their faces did not wear 
the same expression as when they called on us at 
the dak bungalow, and I felt a great leap of the 
heart as I suddenly realized how helpless we were 
should these men prove unfriendly. 

Remembering their description of the beautiful 
Rest House, so much more comfortable than our 
dak bungalow, I glanced around, but could see 
nothing but what appeared to be an old stone ruin a 
little farther on. It looked anything but inviting, 
and was extremely odorous. I felt that we had 
been too hast} 7 in accepting the invitation of strang- 
ers. I told Mr. Brooks to keep the car running and 
not to stop, speaking in Italian, so as not to be 
understood by the men. I had hardly said that 
when Antonio exclaimed, "Turn around quick!" 
but Mr. Brooks, not wishing to show any suspicion, 
kept on, and we were farther inside the circle of 
wild-looking heads, more men appearing from the 
tents, until I lost count of them. I spoke to the 
men we had met previously, saying, as pleasantly 
as possible under the circumstances, " Good morn- 

167 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

ing. I am sorry we are so late, but we lost our way. 
Where shall we find the Rest House? " 

The chauffeur pointed to the ruins on the hill 
and said, " There is where you will stay with your 
maid. We will take care of the men." 

Without hesitation, Mr. Brooks drove on over 
the rough stubble toward the stone ruins, where I 
found that orders were being given and a lot of 
cows were being removed from these ruins, while 
men were scraping the floors where the animals had 
been standing. This was the beautiful Rest House 
I was to occupy ! 

I turned to the men, and, not wishing to let them 
see how I felt about it, exclaimed, " Oh, this is very 
nice; but where is the Raja? " 

He explained that the Raja had started off 
early that morning on elephants, the report having 
been received that the tigers had been seen. He 
was sorry not to be there to welcome me, but he 
would return in the evening, and I could make 
myself quite comfortable in these quarters, which 
they would soon have cleaned out for me. 

I asked if there were any women in the tents, 
thinking that possibly they were modest and timid 
and had not appeared; but to this question I re- 
ceived no reply — only a sardonic smile at the 
thought of women being in this place. 

Upon closer examination, I found that these old 
ruins were in reality a veritable prison, the windows 
being fastened with stones, leaving only little peep- 
holes through which the light and air could pene- 

168 



A NARROW ESCAPE FROM BRIGANDS 

trate. There was a big door, with straps riveted on 
with iron, and hinges that must have required the 
strength of a giant to put on with crude tools. Half 
a dozen or more men ran to the side of our car and 
began to unstrap our baggage; but Mr. Brooks 
suddenly realized our position and called out to 
them not to touch anything, that we were not going 
to stop. Turning to the chauffeur, he asked, 
' Where can I get some of that oil? " for he knew 
we had used nearly all the oil we had in trying to 
find this place, and we did not know where we would 
be able to get a fresh supply. To this he received 
no answer, and for a moment our hearts failed us. 

Mr. Brooks carefully turned the car around, and 
pointed its nose at the same hole in the jungle 
through which we had entered, gradually moving 
on, but not fast enough to arouse suspicion that we 
intended to leave this inhospitable reception. 

The chauffeur and the other man with whom we 
had talked insisted upon our getting out and look- 
ing at the rooms, saying that in a few minutes the 
coolies would have them cleaned out. I told them 
I preferred the fresh air, and that we really could 
not stay; that we had intended only to take lunch, 
as our friends were expecting us at Gya. 

They ignored my reference to lunch, but said, 
" Oh, you have friends at Gya? " 

' Yes," I replied; " we have friends there, and 
we are already two days late. I expect we shall 
meet our escort on the way." 

169 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

I realized I had touched the right key to unlock 
the door of the mob of men standing in front of us, 
and Antonio took the cue immediately and began 
to tell how he had received a telegram at Dehri-on- 
Sone that I was to have a big reception at Gya, and 
as we had many miles to travel, and it was getting 
late, we had better say farewell at once. 

They began to chatter together like a lot of par- 
rots, some of them seeming disinclined to believe the 
story ; but the two men who seemed to be at the head 
of this mob were obeyed, and the line broke apart, 
the men having anything but an engaging expres- 
sion on their faces as they allowed us to pass. 

Smiling as though we had been among dear 
friends, in whom we had full confidence, we rolled 
on, wishing our car could go at the rate of ninety 
miles an hour instead of fifty. 

For many nights afterward that scene haunted 
me. I regret very much that we had no time to take 
photographs of this company. I would rather have 
their pictures than their comradeship. 

We reached the main road once more, and 
turned to the right at as lively a gait as our car 
could make, realizing that ever}'' minute our oil was 
getting lower, and not knowing what lay before us 
in case it should give out entirely. If it did, we 
should be left on the lonely road, seventy miles from 
any Rest House or possible chance of rescue. None 
of us were hungry, or, if we were, nobody sug- 

170 



A NARROW ESCAPE FROM BRIGANDS 

gested stopping for lunch. Our thermos bottles 
filled with hot coffee sufficed us. 

The roads being in good condition and fairly 
level, we reached Gya about seven o'clock in the 
evening ; and then Antonio explained to me that we 
had been in a den of brigands. He suspected it as 
soon as he saw the men, from the style in which they 
wore their hair, which looked like long twisted wool 
done up with little pieces of red cotton cloth, each 
of the men having a streak of red across the fore- 
head from temple to temple, and blue spots over 
the temples. 

They were an evil-looking lot of cut-throats. In 
all my experiences I had never seen anything like 
them, and hope never to meet with their kind again. 
It was here for the first time I appreciated the 
caution and anxiety of my friends in regard to my 
going through India. 

The brigands had evidently planned to imprison 
me and my maid, and it is left to the imagination to 
suppfy what might have happened to my three 
faithful men. We congratulated one another on 
having escaped with whole skins. 

As if by a miracle, our oil lasted until we 
reached Gya, and we found at the station there our 
supply of petrol and oil awaiting us. Antonio and 
Mr. Brooks went afoot about three miles, and, get- 
ting coolies to assist them, brought the oil and petrol 
back with them. 

At Gya we found a fairly good dak bungalow, 

171 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

and with our remaining provisions, eggs, and a few 
potatoes which Antonio had been able to get, we 
enjoyed our dinner. If it had been hard-tack and 
water, it would have tasted good, for we were all 
frightfully hungry and tired after the day's excite- 
ment. 

The next morning we witnessed the first rain we 
had seen in India. It came down in torrents, like 
water-spouts, making it impossible for us even to 
put our baggage on the car ; so we decided to remain 
over and make the best of it. We put our wash- 
bowls and buckets out to catch the rain water, for 
we now had a chance to get all the water we wanted, 
and for once in India it would be clean. Mr. Brooks 
rigged up a temporary spout with the piece of hose 
we carried, and delighted the natives by showing 
them how an American would catch water. 

While we were thus engaged, we saw a queer - 
looking affair approaching, a narrow two-wheeled 
cart covered with a muslin top, and with seven bare- 
legged men pushing and pulling it. When it ar- 
rived at the piazza, the cover was lifted, and out 
stepped a white man in Indian dress, smoking a 
cigar, and followed by a yellow, half-grown boy 
carrying what proved to be a couple of American 
telescope bags. You may imagine we were glad to 
see anybody that had a white skin, and the man who 
alighted from this queer-looking affair showed the 
same pleasure at meeting us. After exchanging 
greetings, he said, " Americans? " 

I answered, " Yes." 




MAJOR AGABKG IX HIS 15 H. P. HUMBEB 



XV 

MISSIONARIES, GOATS, AND OPIUM 

OUR new acquaintance proved to be a mis- 
sionary. He was on his way to his mission, 
some ninety miles farther on, but was 
obliged to stop at the dak bungalow for the night. 
He asked if he could share our rooms with us. 
This is one of the customs in India. No matter 
how many guests arrive at these dak bungalows, 
the first occupants have the right to the bedsteads, 
and the next comers take the floor, but all sleep in 
the same apartment, men and women. 

I asked how far he had travelled, and he said he 
had come about two hundred and seventy-nine 
miles, with coolies pushing and pulling him, but 
that he had been only four days on the road, and 
that the time would have been shorter save for the 
lazy vagabonds whom he had been obliged to whip 

173 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

into obedience. He showed me a whip with a short 
handle and a long lash which he used for this pur- 
pose. Two of his men had become so bruised that 
it was impossible for them to limp along, and he 
had to take new ones to replace them. 

He was smoking hard, and said he had been to 
a place where he could get a supply of tobacco, 
which he could not exist without in this horrible 
country. Like other missionaries of whom I have 
heard, he was ready for a donation immediately. 
He told me that the amounts received in India were 
not as large as they used to be; that the American 
people were not so generous, and that the churches 
did not begin to contribute the same amount of 
money as formerly. It was getting pretty hard for 
the missionaries, he said, as they had to live, and 
had to live pretty comfortably to enable them to 
stand the country. He said there was no way of 
converting the Hindus and Mohammedans except 
after a famine, as they were then starved into 
religion, and there was some hope of adding a large 
flock of adherents to his church. He neglected to 
state of what particular use they would be as 
adherents. 

I found him interesting in his accounts of the 
life there. He informed me he had been there 
twenty-two years, and he had no desire to return 
to America. He did not believe he could live in 
America, as he had become accustomed to so many 
comforts in India. 

174 



MISSIONARIES, GOATS, AND OPIUM 

This was not surprising to me, for all through 
India I had heard the same accounts. Here and 
there, of course, the missionaries are doing good 
work in teaching the natives English, which makes 
them more independent when they go to the large 
cities, and enables them to get employment as do- 
mestic servants, both in private families and in the 
hotels, at higher wages than they would otherwise 
receive. 

This man was anxious to hear about America, 
and he greedily took possession of every newspaper 
we possessed, carrying them off with him the next 
morning when he left, at about five o'clock. 

Maria was up early, and had her washing done 
and hung up in every conceivable place in the room 
to dry. We had an open fireplace, and by paying 
the care-taker a good round sum, he supplied us 
with wood with which we kept a roaring fire going 
to dry the clothes, and also to take the chill off 
the air, for in spite of the heat of the previous day, 
and the warm rain outside, the interior of the dak 
bungalow was chilly. 

The beautiful black sheep and goats which are 
herded along the roads are often ferocious. They 
have magnificent long silky hair, and we were told 
that these goats supplied the skins for many of the 
coats worn by English ladies. Honk-Honk had his 
own troubles with the goats, for upon his becoming 
too familiar, one of them disciplined him in short 
order. Honkie took no more liberties. 

175 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

We remained here another night, then, the rain 
having stopped, we decided to start on our last lap 
to Calcutta, which on the Grand Trunk road is 
about three hundred miles. From Gya to Burhi is 
about sixty miles, over a winding road with a bad 
surface. Here we had a puncture and a blowout, 
and we used the last extra tires we had. 

We met many old people who seemed half 
starved. The crumbs from our table were eagerly 
seized. Even the water in which our potatoes were 
boiled was watched with greedy eyes by the care- 
taker at the bungalow, who begged Albert not to 
throw it away. He put some herbs in it and made a 
sort of soup, which he drank, declaring it was good 
for his stomach. 

We were now in the Bengal District, and passed 
through miles and miles of poppy fields, where they 
raise opium. Here, too, we saw more often the 
little mud huts and small villages, and we noticed 
signs written in English over the huts, " Opium 
Inspector," and more writing in Hindustanee which 
we did not understand. For the first time we met 
men staggering along under the influence of this 
drug, apparently not even seeing where they were 
going. Many times we narrowly escaped running 
over them. 

One morning, as we were going along at about 
twenty miles an hour, we noticed two men coming 
toward us, the younger one trying to control the 
elder and coax him along. As our car approached, 

176 



MISSIONARIES, GOATS, AND OPIUM 

we slowed down, fortunately; for just as we were 
about to pass them, the elder man suddenly broke 
away and tried to fling himself in front of the car, 
evidently with the intention of committing suicide. 
The other quickly threw his whole weight against 
him, and together they rolled in the dust. We 
passed within three inches of their feet. 

The roads here are very narrow, and there are 
bad washouts on each side of the road, built to carry 
away the surplus water during the rainy season 
and keep the roads as dry as possible. This makes 
it impossible to do very much turning out, and we 
felt grateful that the roads in India were not as 
thickly covered with motor-cars as some of our roads 
in America, or we should have suffered disaster. 

We met several of the strange conveyances on 
the road that I have before described, some of them 
having as many as fourteen coolies pushing and 
pulling them. We were told that they must con- 
tain people of high rank, or missionaries, because 
the more coolies they have, the more power and 
wealth they must possess, since the coolies are to be 
paid for the work they do. 

On arriving at Burhi, we decided to stop for the 
night. We were able to obtain chicken, eggs, and 
potatoes, and good sweet bread from the commis- 
sary department of one of the English barracks. 
We could always get bread if near the English 
barracks, as they were willing to sell as many loaves 
as we required. Otherwise we had to depend on our 
m 177 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

own supply of flour. A common sight in passing 
through India is an old woman grinding wheat 
between two round stones. This reminds one of the 
description in the Bible of the " two women grind- 
ing at the mill." We were now within about two 
hundred and twenty-four miles of Calcutta. From 
Burhi to Asensol is about one hundred and twenty 
miles of level, straight road, but the surface is poor 
as far as Katrasgarh. From there the road is 
excellent. 

We reached Asensol about six o'clock, and as 
this is a great railroad centre, and one of the stations 
where we were to get a supply of oil and petrol, we 
were under the impression that we should be able 
to find a hotel or a dak bungalow. We wandered 
around for nearly an hour, but found no place where 
they would take us in. We even went to the Court 
House, or Police Station, for here we saw for the 
first time in India what looked like small jails, or 
prisons. They are distributed all through the 
Bengal District, these being the most vicious people 
the English have to deal with. No doubt this is 
due to the effects of the opium, rather than to the 
natural disposition of the natives. 

They discovered coal in Asensol about four 
years ago, and English investors have put money in 
the mines and are working them. It is amusing to 
see the effect of this coal on the natives, who have 
a dark skin naturally, but here appear unnaturally 
black. Having been accustomed to burn clean 

178 



MISSIONARIES, GOATS, AND OPIUM 

wood and handle their pots and pans, they do not 
understand the effects of the soft coal (of which 
they mine more than the hard), and when they 
stand over the open fires everything gets black, 
even themselves. The white of the eyes showing 
from their smutty faces makes them an amusing 
sight, reminding one of the " end men " in the 
minstrel shows at home. Here, as well as all 
through India, water is scarce, and they sometimes 
have to carry it miles for cooking purposes. Natu- 
rally, washing is limited, though not prohibited. 

Here in this uninviting little railroad centre, 
with the engines shoving the trains back and forth, 
and helping to blacken the air with their smoke, we 
looked for a place to sleep, not wishing to put up 
our tent, as the ground itself was black and dusty, 
not a tempting place even for walking. Pittsburg 
is clean in comparison. 

We found a Club House belonging to the Eng- 
lish engineers connected with the mines, and we 
bravely walked up and asked if the}^ would take us 
in; but the care-taker shook his head and said the 
gentlemen could stay there, but not the ladies. 

The matter was getting to be serious. We had 
passed several fine places on the way, or had 
glimpses of them set back in the parks with high 
fences surrounding them, and we felt there ought 
to be somebody who would at least give us a clean 
spot on which to pitch our tent. Hearing a sound 
like a motor-car, we discovered one coming toward 

179 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

us. But it crossed the road and turned ; and fearing 
it would escape us, Mr. Brooks hastened after it, 
and stopped the motor by calling and waving his 
hat. The occupants were Major F. S. Agabeg, an 
English gentleman, and his charming wife. Major 
Agabeg was the Vice-President of the Club, and, 
upon hearing Mr. Brooks's story of our condition, 
he immediately returned to the Club House and 
ordered the coolies to take off our baggage, and told 
us the place was at our disposal. 

The Major and his wife afterward told us that 
they had seen or heard of a motor-car having 
passed along, but it was so loaded no one could tell 
its contents. They wondered what place we were 
making for, and where we would stop ; for it was a 
rare occurrence for a stranger to appear in this 
place, and it naturally created a great deal of 
curiosity. They insisted on our returning with them 
to their own home, one of the beautiful places we 
had passed. We declined for that night, but ac- 
cepted an invitation for luncheon the following day. 
We preferred to remain at the Club until we should 
have rid ourselves of the accumulation of dust and 
dirt. 

Here we found a fairly good Indian cook, and 
with the remainder of our provisions, mostly canned 
goods, had a satisfactory supper. The Major had 
posted up a notice to members asking them to 
remember there were two ladies in the house, and to 
omit any amusement that might annoy them. Only 

180 



MISSIONARIES, GOATS, AND OPIUM 

one or two of the members appeared that night, and 
as we were all very tired after our long journey, we 
were glad to retire early. 

The next day Mr. Brooks laid in a fresh supply 
of petrol and oil, and I got out a clean gown, and 
when Major Agabeg arrived we accepted his invi- 
tation to accompany him home in his own little car. 
We were received by Mrs. Agabeg in a fresh white 
gown. She welcomed us as if we were old friends, 
and it was pleasant indeed once more to sit down to 
a delicious luncheon in civilized surroundings. 

We spent a pleasant evening, playing billiards, 
walking around the interesting grounds, and lis- 
tening to Major Agabeg's account of his life there. 
He had been sent over by an uncle who had put a 
great deal of money in the mines, and spent a large 
amount on machinery for mining the coal. He told 
me that it was hard to sell the coal, as most of the 
natives had no money with which to buy it, and the 
Maharaja would not use it on account of the dirt 
and smoke. So they had to depend chiefly on ship- 
ments to Calcutta, for use on the steamers and the 
railroads. He thought it would be only a short 
time, however, before the natives would have to 
use coal, as no one had been thoughtful enough to 
plant trees where they had been cut down. Since 
the mutiny of 1857 the supply has gradually de- 
creased, and India will soon become a vast desert. 

Major Agabeg and his wife were so hosjntable 
that we remained for a couple of days to get rested 
before starting on. 

183 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

From Asensol to Burdwan is sixty-six miles. 
The first twenty miles is hilly and the surface of the 
roads fair; after that there is an excellent straight 
road. When we reached Burdwan we discovered 
that Maria had locked all the boxes and left the 
keys at Asensol at the Club House. We were in a 
dak bungalow, with beds but no coverings, nor 
could we get anything out of our dressing-bags. I 
telegraphed to Major Agabeg that I was sending 
Antonio back by train that night for the keys. 
About four o'clock in the morning he returned with 
them, and we then took out what was necessary and 
bundled ourselves up and went to sleep quite like 
the natives. 

We were now about sixty-six miles from Cal- 
cutta. As we neared the city, we found the traffic 
extremely heavy; and the numerous little villages 
one has to pass through make careful driving neces- 
sary. Calcutta, the capital of India, is the second 
largest city in the British empire. 



•■|;\ .; 



I 



i 




' FIGURINES OF FAST INDIAN CASTES 

XVI 

CALCUTTA'S HOSPITABLE RECEPTION 

WE reached Calcutta about three o'clock. 
The night spent at the dak bungalow, the 
excitement about the mislaid keys, and the 
proximity of street and railroad made rest im- 
possible. The curiosity we excited in Calcutta, and 
the interest displayed in us and in our car, soon 
brought me to an almost regretful realization of 
the fact that we were nearing our journey's end 
through India. 

We went to the Grand Hotel, and when I 
stepped up to register and inquire about rooms, the 
clerk gazed at me with no little curiosity. Half a 
dozen guides had followed us in, and explained to 
the clerk, with excited gesticulations, that we had 
arrived in a motor-car. The clerk said, " Why, 
Madam, where did you come from? " 

" Bombay." 

"Yes, but how?" 

" In a motor-car." 

185 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

" Do I understand you to say you came all the 
way from Bombay in a motor-car? " 

I replied that that was what we had done. 

He said, " Well, you have trained your car, 
and only made short trips " —this being the English 
expression for having put your car on a train. 

I told him that we had driven every inch of the 
way. I also remarked that I had my little dog with 
me, and hoped there would be no objection to taking 
him in. I asked if there was a garage where I could 
put my car, and the clerk said there was a court 
inside which could be reached by going around the 
block, and that he would give us rooms there, but 
that we must watch our car and be responsible 
for it. 

Never once during my trip across India, a dis- 
tance of twenty-three hundred miles, was my car or 
anything in it molested in any way, although we 
were often obliged to leave some of our baggage 
outside in the car, as well as the extra tires and the 
tools that we carried. While the natives showed 
great curiosity and looked at eveiything, their man- 
ners were perfect, and they never put their fingers 
on the car. Motorists will appreciate this. In our 
own country, one no sooner stops than a lot of dirty 
boys gather around, who seem to delight in finger- 
ing everything with their soiled hands. 

We were shown rooms inside the court, and I 
engaged a pleasant little suite. Mr. Brooks brought 
the car around, and once more we unloaded our 

186 



CALCUTTA'S HOSPITABLE RECEPTION 

baggage, which, like ourselves, was covered with 
dust. The terrific heat of the sun poured down on 
a very fatigued and dirty-looking party. After the 
baggage was taken off and carried to our rooms, and 
we were comfortably settled, Antonio brought a 
tray with delicious tea, bread and butter, and 
orange marmalade. 

I settled down to read and answer some of the 
letters that had been forwarded to me here, and 
sent Albert to the office of the P. & O. Steamship 
Company, to see if the accommodations had been 
reserved for us oh the steamer sailing in about two 
weeks, for which I had previously written. He 
returned with the news that everything had been 
taken up; that we could not leave Calcutta for a 
month, as the steamers sail only every two weeks. 

I immediately put on my topee, and with a fan 
and umbrella started for the office of the steamship 
company, where I was met by a clerk with a round 
face, looking like a puffed up raisin, with two eyes 
bulging, and a little round mouth. He informed 
me that he had received my letter, but that every- 
thing had been taken up a month before my letter 
was received, and that there was no possible way of 
getting staterooms on that steamer. I inquired for 
the superintendent, Mr. Jenkins, and, after some 
delay, he received me. I explained my position to 
him, and the necessity for my not missing the next 
steamer, as I was due in Colombo. 

He was a gentleman of the old school, and ap- 

187 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

predated a lady's dilemma. He disappeared for a 
moment, and on his return asked if I would mind 
occupying one room with my maid, or the hospital 
room, on board the ship, as on these P. & O. boats 
they always have a room reserved for a hospital 
room. I told him we were willing to sleep almost 
anywhere, providing we could sail at the time 
appointed. He promised that this should be 
arranged, and said that I could rest perfectly con- 
tented, as he would see that we sailed on that 
steamer. 




OUR CALCUTTA ERIEXDS MR. JENKINS IN CENTRE 



This incident brought about a very pleasant 
acquaintance, Mr. Jenkins giving me a charming 
luncheon and dinner at his home, where I met his 
sister-in-law, who was keeping house for him during 
the absence of his wife in England. During my 
stay in Calcutta, I received invitations for dinners 
and luncheons which would have occupied all of my 

188 



CALCUTTA'S HOSPITABLE RECEPTION 

time. I could not possibly accept half the invita- 
tions, much to my regret. 

I made inquiries about Honk-Honk, and found 
he must again be separated from his mistress and 
sent to Kobe, if I wished him to arrive there at 
the time I was due. Mr. Jenkins kindly arranged 
with the Japanese consul to permit Honk-Honk to 
land on the sacred ground of Japan. 

Our sojourn in Calcutta was spent in motor 
trips, sometimes taking Mr. Jenkins and his family, 
or some of his friends. We spent Sunday at the 
Club, where we Were presented to people of note. 
We also went in the early morning to the Riding 
Club and saw some fine exhibitions of riding over 
roughly ploughed ground, and some good jumping, 
with English horses. 

We decided to make a trip to Darjeeling with 
our motor-car, and started early one morning, 
leaving the hotel about 5 :30. We inquired our way 
out of Calcutta, that we might get started on the 
right road, for while there is only one, very few 
people seemed to know just where that began. 
After having travelled for about three hours, we 
happily ascertained that we were really on the right 
path. 

At the foot of the mountain, we were obliged to 
get permission to ascend, as no motor-car had been 
up there, and they seemed to be afraid that we would 
be killed, or would cause an accident to the train, 
which is a regular switchback, winding in and out 

189 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

of the Sonada forest. This train proceeds on a 
track at the side of the same road we had to use, a 
winding road with fairly steep grades, but in per- 
fect condition, crossing and recrossing the railroad 
track every few miles. In some places we had to 
run right on the tracks. 

We were merry over this feat, for the climb up 
that mountain was a dream in comparison with a 
drive down Broadway or on Fifth Avenue, New 
York. Of course we had to keep a lookout for the 
little train, but when you know there are only four 
trips a day made by these trains, two up and two 
down, you find it easy to avoid any difficulty in this 
respect. The engines pulling these trains whistle 
and toot at every crossing, fearing to run over some 
pedestrian, so that one would have to be careless 
indeed to get into trouble. 

At last I found my dreams of India realized: I 
was in the Himalaya Mountains, enjoying the climb 
to the fullest extent, for we were blest with as beau- 
tiful a day as one could imagine, with the orioles 
singing, making one think of spring, not winter. 

As we mounted higher and higher, circling 
around the mountain-sides, we passed tea-fields full 
of tea pickers, and the views spread out in grand 
panorama before us were superb. One could really 
spend a week in this mountain climbing, for the 
Himalayas are the most beautiful mountains in 
the world. This mountain has been conquered by 
the hand of man, and you admire the achievement 

190 









Copyright by J. Burlington Smith, Darjeeling 

PARJEELING, INDIA 



CALCUTTA'S HOSPITABLE RECEPTION 

of the engineer, which enables trains to climb, so 
that people may escape the heat of the plains below. 
Yon cannot possibly keep on your way when in a 
motor-car without stopping often to admire the 
beautiful scenes spread before you. 

. Here we passed natives, but they were all walk- 
ing. We did not see any bullock carts all the way 
up the mountain — only the little train. Although 
we travelled faster than it, we stopped often to 
enjoy the views, and so became quite familiar with 
the passengers, with whom we exchanged salutes. 
We often travelled alongside the train on the road, 
at the same rate of speed, so as to enjoy the sight of 
the smiling faces. 

The natives rushed to the side of the road and 
looked with frightened eyes at this monster climb- 
ing the hills. They were too surprised even to 
salaam. Our downward trip was quite different in 
that respect, as we received smiles and salaams all 
the way. 

As we climbed higher and higher my heart began 
to be affected by the change in altitude, and for a 
few moments I felt anxious, not knowing just how 
high an altitude I could stand. At last, when we 
reached the Hotel Darjeeling, I was told that we 
were fifteen thousand feet above sea level. 

Here I gazed at the panorama spread before us. 
The hotel manager remarked, " You can go on up 
to twenty-five thousand feet, but I think you would 
have to do that on foot or on mule-back, for there 

13 193 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

is nothing but a very narrow path going around the 
mountain." 

On our way we had passed many small schools 
where the English officers send their children, their 
wives occupying the small villas during the hot 
season, from March until November. 

We found the hotel here well-kept, and as we 
entered a crackling fire gave cheery welcome. Upon 
retiring to my room I experienced a smothered 
feeling, and my maid exclaimed, " Signora is ill! " 
I had to confess that I did feel a little queer, for it 
seemed impossible for me to breathe. Mr. Brooks 
immediately sent for the doctor who was connected 
with a regiment up there, and he exclaimed, " Oh, 
Madam has a weak heart." 

Nothing else being available, the woolen sheets 
from the bed were torn into strips and dipped into 
hot water, and I was bound up in them until I felt 
relieved. I also took some medicine the doctor gave 
me. This attack lasted only about two hours ; then, 
hearing that the Dalai Lama, who had escaped from 
Tibet to save his life, was expected at the hotel at 
any moment, I got up and dressed, putting on a 
heavy fur coat, and was wheeled out on the terrace 
in a roller-chair to witness the arrival. And what 
a pitiful sight it was! The Lama was carried in a 
dandie on the shoulders of four of his faithful fol- 
lowers. He was dusty and tired, but was dressed 
in a magnificent red robe, with jeweled chains about 
his neck, and he had on a hat which I can only 

194 



CALCUTTA'S HOSPITABLE RECEPTION 

describe as being like a small sailor hat, with narrow 
rim and small crown, and with a little black band 
around the crown, the edges crossed and hanging 
over the side. Because of the jolting of the climb 
up the steep mountain-sides, up which he had been 
carried, this hat was cocked over his left ear, and it 
was enough to incite merriment, until one thought 
of his sad plight. This was the head covering of 
the great Dalai Lama, who was escaping from his 
people because he had dared to live too long, and 
they wanted a new Pope. His friends had warned 
him that unless he left Tibet his life would not be 
spared, and they assisted him to escape, many of 
them following him. A tired, dust-covered lot of 
gypsies they were! The Lama and our motor- 
car, arriving at about the same time, divided the 
honors on this occasion. His poor tired little pony 
was being led, and the Darjeeling Indians cast 
themselves upon the ground and caressed the mane 
and tail of the faithful little beast. 

That afternoon we were entertained by the tom- 
tom beaters and the silver dancers, who were dressed 
in the most fantastic style, and decorated with 
enough turquoises, sapphires, and rubies to make a 
prince's fortune. 

The second day we spent in being carried around 
in 'rickshaws down the narrow paths and over the 
miniature bridges, which are narrow but very 
strong. 

195 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

One misses the greatest pleasure of the whole 
trip if one fails to witness the wonderful sunrise in 
these mountains. At five o'clock in the morning I 
stood on my balcony, thousands of feet high, and 
looked upward where the snow- and ice-covered 
mountains were shining in iridescent colors, like 
scintillant jewels. The cloud effects, as they 
changed every minute, with the shadows resting on 
the fir trees, were beyond description. 

I must confess tint the high altitude did not 
agree with me. The rest of the party stood it, but 
it was a dangerous place for anybody with a weak 
heart. Scarcely a day passes that some one does not 
pay the penalty with his life for his adventurous 
spirit in climbing to this high altitude. 

The Darjeeling Indians reminded me of the 
type of Indians with which I was familiar in 
America — the same broad faces and high cheek- 
bones. Here, too, the babies, or papooses, were 
strapped in hand-woven baskets wrapped around 
and around with hand-woven silk rags, and carried 
on the backs of the mothers. It was not an uncom- 
mon sight to see women cutting and sawing wood, 
with their babies sleeping quietly, fastened to their 
backs. Even little boys not over ten years old were 
picking up sticks or carrying baskets in their hands, 
with little baby brothers or sisters strapped to their 
backs. When the baby became restless or cried, the 
little brother would stand and shake his whole body, 
and so quiet his small burden. 

196 



CALCUTTA'S HOSPITABLE RECEPTION 

The women wear rings in their ears and nose. 
Some of them have such immense rings in their 
noses, fastened in by their husbands, that when they 
want to eat they have to pull a lock of hair from 
their forehead to fasten up the nose ring, so as to 
gain access to their mouths. This gives a most 
amusing expression to their faces. 

The women here practise polyandry, so I was 
told, being permitted to have as many husbands as 
they desire. The way one husband would know his 
presence was not desired in the home of his wife 
was when he saw another pair of shoes on the door- 
step. That was a signal that she was not to be 
disturbed or molested until those shoes disappeared. 
So I found in these mountains one place where 
women were permitted to enjoy legally the same 
privileges that men who are sometimes called gen- 
tlemen enjoy illegally. 

The women here are evidently the strongest 
characters, as they keep the roads in perfect condi- 
tion, doing all the heavy work, and carrying im- 
mense loads on their heads. They go up into the 
mountain and bring down the wood that is used by 
the residents of Darjeeling, and they carry up pro- 
visions from the foot of the mountain, each making 
her husband do a certain amount of the work. 

All through this country are little shrines, and 
the natives tie small rags on a stick for a prayer, 
expecting it to be granted through this method. 

Some of the curious and interesting little ani- 

197 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

mals one sees all about Darjeeling are the broad- 
tailed sheep. 

At last we had to leave all this wonderful 
scenery, and descend to the hot plains below. 
Cheery farewells were waved to us by the guests 
and residents of Darjeeling. 

We went down the mountain in a little less than 
two hours, coasting nearly all the way. It had 
taken about five hours to make the ascent, although, 
of course, we made many stops going up. We had 
no trouble in finding our way back to Calcutta, 
although both in going and in returning one must 
cross several ferries and travel over a number of 
sandy places. When we reached Calcutta we were 
received as though we were old residents of the 
place, and found our rooms all cleaned and pre- 
pared for our reception, with bouquets of flowers 
to welcome me back. 

While in Calcutta we were entertained at the 
Government House, Lord and Lady Minto becom- 
ing as much interested in our trip as any one we 
met. Lord Minto remarked that my motor trip 
was the most normal he had heard of, and that I 
had received health and pleasure in the most ideal 
way. 

At the invitation of Major Stevenson, I visited 
the hospitals to study the plague cases. I found 
every modern convenience in these hospitals — roll- 
ing-tables, surgical instruments. The surgical 
ward was in perfect condition, the nurses being 

198 



CALCUTTA'S HOSPITABLE RECEPTION 

native men and women who had been trained for 
this purpose. I saw an interesting exhibition of X- 
ray work, visited the smallpox wards, and witnessed 
an operation where the surgeon removed a part of 
the upper jaw-bone, which was decayed, and 
inserted an artificial bone. I was told that later on, 
when the wound had become sufficiently healed and 
the gum had grown on the artificial bone, they 
would insert teeth, and the man Avould never realize 
that his upper jaw-bone was artificial. 

These hospitals are established and kept up by 
the English almost entirely, and they deserve the 
greatest credit for the noble work that 'is here 
accomplished. The hospitals cover blocks of 
ground in Calcutta, but, like our hospitals at home, 
they have not accomplished all they desire, and are 
ever hoping for large donations to carry on the 
work. 

One of the invitations I accepted while in Cal- 
cutta was to a dinner given by the two brothers of 
Mrs. Cassie, who had taken the trip to Poona with 
us. It was a most delightful and original bachelors' 
dinner. Around my plate were little figures repre- 
senting the different castes in India, which were 
presented to me as souvenirs of my trip. 

Among the many charming and hospitable peo- 
ple I met in Calcutta were Mr. and Mrs. Walter G. 
Gregory. Mr. Gregory sent his fine new motor- 
car to bring Mr. Brooks and me to their house for a 

199 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

dinner he gave, where we met about twenty inter- 
esting residents of Calcutta. 

We were also invited to Barrachpore, which is a 
lovely motor trip of about an hour's run, where we 
were entertained by Dr. and Mrs. Graves. In our 
honor Dr. Graves had about a thousand of the 
native troops in line, and they gave us an hour's 
pleasure in reviewing them and watching their 
manoeuvres. They were a fine-looking lot of men. 
We visited their temple, and they presented me with 
a little hand-made hatchet, knife, and spear, and 
also some funny-looking little hand-made woolen 
pieces which they use for cuff-buttons, and which 
they said would bring me good luck. 

The editor of The Emjjress and representatives 
of other papers in Calcutta interviewed me in 
regard to my trip. They asked what medicine I 
had brought to ward off diseases. I explained that 
all we had needed was quinine, which I had admin- 
istered whenever I thought any of our little party 
needed it. We almost always took a dose of it after 
a long dusty ride, or when we had been unusually 
exposed to the dust and heat. 

The Empress for March published the follow- 
ing rather superlative article: 

To our list of distinguished visitors this season, we have 
now to add Mrs. Clark Fisher, who in the course of her journey 
around the world in her motor-car arrived in Calcutta last 
week, and left a few days ago for Colombo. This most remark- 
able lady is the widow of Lieutenant Clark Fisher, of the 

200 



CALCUTTA'S HOSPITABLE RECEPTION 

U. S. Navy. Her love for outdoor life and adventure has been 
fully realized in her trip across India. She is the first lad} r to 
accomplish this feat, which makes her of great interest to the 
people here in Calcutta. She has met most of the prominent 
people in Europe as well as in her own country. In 1900 she 
was presented to her late majesty, Queen Victoria, at Windsor, 
and she has met various members of the royal houses of Europe. 

Her entourage consists of a young American engineer, Mr. 
Harold Fisher Brooks, a metropolitan valet, an Italian maid, 
and an Indian servant. 

On the way from Bombay the party has frequently camped 
out on the road, and they seem to have enjoyed it. In the 
course of conversation, Mrs. Fisher expressed her delight at 
her reception, both by the Europeans and the Indians through- 
out the country. 

She mentioned particularly her reception by His Highness 
the Maharaja of Benares, His Highness the Maharaja of 
Baroda and Mr. Nehru of Allahabad. 

Another of the daily papers, under the caption 
" Around the World in a Motor-Car," stated that 
" Mrs. Fisher seemed much pleased with the sardee 
and wore one while in India ; and said she never felt 
so comfortably dressed as she did in that lovely light 
silk gown; and hoped to persuade the American 
ladies to adopt that style for house wear during the 
summer months, since they are cool, easily put on. 
require no buttons or sewing, and are easily laun- 
dered." Continuing, the article said: 

She was very anxious to see an elephant, and to her great 
satisfaction she had her desires gratified in having been enabled 
to ride on them and see them in all their practical workings, 
trimming trees and carrying heavy logs in the jungle. She 

201 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

was very much interested in her trip to Benares, which she 
visited just at the time of the great religious festival or annual 
bath-taking in the Ganges. The experiences they have met 
with in ferrying across rivers, foraging for game, etc., seems 
to have agreed with the whole party, for they all looked rosy 
and well, and as though enjoying their gypsy life immensely. 
The motorists in Calcutta were very much interested in this 
trip, and we hope it will not be long before there will be more 
people attempting this original and delightful way of making 
little excursions farther into the country, now that this Amer- 
ican woman has set the example and shown the way. The 
tying of the turbans interested Mrs. Fisher very much, and we 
think if she only had the time she would soon learn all the 
different curves and creases given to that head-gear so well 
known in India. We are sorry more people of this sort are not 
tempted to visit India, for it is quite a new type of woman 
coming from over the sea. 

Since her arrival in Calcutta, Mrs. Fisher has visited some 
of the chief engineering firms in the city, including the Russa 
Works of Bhowanipore. She is, of course, collecting curios, 
and one of these consists of a new pig-sticking spear invented 
by H. H. the Maharaja of Benares. Made of the finest steel, 
it consists of a formidable horse pistol at the base of a lance- 
head nearly half a yard in length, with a cross bar. When 
the spear has penetrated the pig, the cross bar is pressed back- 
ward and the trigger released, and the pistol goes off; and 
" when the Maharaja is finished with that pig, I reckon it is not 
much use for sausage," said Mrs. Fisher. Everyone seems to 
regret that this little woman is making such a short stay in 
Calcutta. 

I noticed that in travelling through India one 
rarely sees a girl of fifteen or sixteen years of age. 
We saw them up to eight or nine years, or very old 
women. I remarked at this, and it was explained 

202 



CALCUTTA'S HOSPITABLE RECEPTION 

to me that after a girl reaches the age of fourteen 
or fifteen she is kept in seclusion, only very young 
girls and old women being permitted to be gazed 
upon by the public. 

Two weeks of the hotel life and cooking nearly 
finished me, for everything one eats is filled with 
curry and chili, and my throat felt scorched for 
several days after I left Calcutta. They informed 
me that one of the reasons for using this " hot stuff ' 
was to ward off stomach troubles and diseases ; but 
in my opinion, it would be more likely to cause the 
very thing they desire to avoid. It may kill germs, 
but I think it is responsible for the death of many 
humans as well. 

In Calcutta Honk-Honk was petted and 
admired, and was allowed the special privilege of 
playing in the Park in front of the Grand Hotel, 
where he enjoyed himself in independent American 
fashion; but he soon had to be prepared for his 
long journey on a sailing vessel to Japan. 




BATHING THE ELEPHANTS, CEYLON 

XVII 

WONDERFUL LITTLE CEYLON 

THE time was drawing near when I must say 
farewell to India, and we made arrange- 
ments to ship the car on the same steamer 
on which we were to sail. To any one following 
the same route, I would offer the advice that they 
give the steamship company as much time as pos- 
sible in which to make arrangements for the 
shipping of the motor-car, as they carry an im- 
mense amount of freight. It is also well to have 
one's car insured. 

From about the tenth of March on, it is ex- 
tremely warm in the middle of the day in India, 
making it necessary to close the blinds of your 
windows and have the punkas going constantly. 
These fans are movable frames, covered with 
canvas and suspended from the ceiling. In many 

204 



WONDERFUL LITTLE CEYLON 

cases there are also water mattresses, which are 
made of grass or roots and kept wet, and when 
fanned by these punkas they help cool the air. The 
fans are kept in motion by native boys, one boy 
sometimes keeping five or six in a row going at the 
same time. The boy is dressed in white and wears 
a red sash, and as he keeps up this monotonous 
motion he seems to turn into a veritable machine, 
resting from time to time first on one foot and then 
on the other. I was told that they keep this up for 
hours at a stretch without any rest. I regretted 
leaving everything in India except the heat, and the 
monotonous motion of these fans. 

We sailed on March 10th. On board the 
steamer I found myself and my maid installed in 
very comfortable quarters. Mr. Brooks and Albert 
had comfortable rooms a little further aft. The 
hospital room was not brought into requisition for 
us. The ship was very crowded, so much so that 
husbands and wives were parted, occupying sepa- 
rate rooms ; as at this time of the year many of the 
English officers and their wives are returning to 
England for their vacation. 

In the Ear East one sees humanity under dif- 
ferent aspects from those we observe at home: 
mothers and fathers parting with their children, 
husbands parting with their wives, oftentimes for- 
ever ; here, too, the traveller feels the pang of part- 
ing with friends with whom one is beginning to 
wish for a closer friendship. But the parting hour 

205 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

seems to come to all, and so, " like ships that pass 
in the night," we move on, and at last arrive at 
Colombo in the Island of Ceylon. 

A small lighter comes out to meet the passen- 
gers, and we are taken on board, and, after landing, 
walk a few steps to the Oriental Hotel. It is hardly 
necessary for me to say that Colombo is the stop- 
ping point for all steamers coming and going to 
the different ports in the East, and therefore one 
sees nearly every nationality represented there. 

After a hasty luncheon, we went to the Custom 
House, where we presented our papers, and got 
receipts to clear our car, after which I returned to 
the hotel. Mr. Brooks went to the Custom House 
Wharf, and in a couple of hours informed me that 
the car was at my door. 

The guide-books say to avoid the months of 
June, July, October, and November in visiting 
Ceylon, as well as for travelling in the interior. 
February to May can safely be recommended to 
the visitor, and Nuwara Eliya especially is climat- 
ically delightful during what is " the season " for 
the sanitarium in these four months, while it is often 
enjoyable in August, September, December, and 
January. They claim never to have had a case of 
plague on the island. 

As soon as you arrive, you pass a doctor's in- 
spection and receive a certificate; and for three 
days after your arrival you are obliged to visit the 
doctor and have your pulse felt and your tongue 

206 



WONDERFUL LITTLE CEYLON 

examined. If the slightest symptoms of fever pre- 
sent themselves, you are immediately quarantined 
and sent off to the hospital. This is absolutely un- 
avoidable. All the inhabitants of the Island of 
Ceylon are as carefully watched as the members of a 
large family, to prevent contagious diseases. 

The area of the Island of Ceylon is 25,481 
square miles, and the total population (including 
coolies) for 1907 was 3,988,064, of whom 6559 are 
Europeans. The rest of the population is made up 
of Sinhales, Burghers, Tamils, Moors, Malays, and 
others. In Ceylon you find cardamom, cinnamon, 
plumbago, cocoa, cocoanut oil. The total quantity 
of Ceylon rubber exported in 1908 was 712,125 
pounds. The value of the exports during 1908 was 
Rs. 128,962,156.00; that of the imports, Rs. 122,- 
420,393.51. The public debt amounts to 4,638,334 
pounds. It has been incurred for the construction 
of harbor works, railways, and irrigation projects. 
The revenue in round figures is Rs. 35,000,000. The 
currency of the island is rupees, divided, not into 
annas as in India, but into cents. The sovereign is 
now legal tender, L. 1, Rs. 15. The rupee is there- 
fore equal to Is. 4d. 

Ceylon has been continuously, but not entirely, 
ruled by European races since 1507, when the Por- 
tuguese settled on the west and south coasts. The 
Dutch dispossessed the Portuguese in 1656, but 
gave way in turn to the English, who have held the 
Maritime Provinces since 1796, and the whole isl- 

207 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

and, including the interior and Kandyan King- 
dom, which neither the Portuguese nor the Dutch 
ever occupied, since 1815. Ceylon belongs to the 
class of what are known as " Crown Colonies." It 
is administered direct from the Crown by the Sec- 
retary of State for the Colonies, with whom, at the 
Colonial Office in Downing Street, the Governor 
communicates on all matters of State. Locally, 
the executive and administrative power is in the 
hands of the Governor, who is assisted by an Ex- 





A CROSSING IN CEYLON 



ecutive Council of five official members, consisting 
of the Lieutenant-Governor and Colonial Secre- 
tary, the officer commanding the troops, the Attor- 
ney-General, the Auditor-General, and the Treas- 
urer. 

Travelling in Ceylon is for the most part com- 
paratively easy either by railway or, preferably, 

208 



WONDERFUL LITTLE CEYLON 

by motor-car. The roads in most places are excel- 
lent, and the Rest Houses are far more comfortable 
than the corresponding institutions in India. In 
the larger towns, such as Badulla, Ratnapura, 
Matara, and at some of the stations on the Great 
North Road, they are, in all but name, hotels. The 
traveller is not allowed to remain in them more 
than three days without permission, which, how- 
ever, is easily procured. On all the principal roads 
they are usually provided with bed and table linen, 
baths, tea and dinner service, etc. This is not the 
case, however, on the less frequented roads, where 
the Rest Houses often furnish little more than 
shelter. 

The motor-car is now being quite commonly 
used, and affords the most perfect means of touring 
the island. The cost for hiring these motor-cars is 
about fifty dollars a day for the car and driver. 
You have, naturally, tips and other expenses in 
addition, and I understand from people who have 
hired cars there that it runs up to about seventy- 
five dollars a day. As you can do the whole island 
in a week or ten days, it is for the person touring to 
decide whether he will take this means or be 
crowded into ill-smelling and overcrowded cars. Of 
course if you take your own motor-car, the trav- 
elling is ideal. 

To the traveller who intends to stop more than 
a day or two in Colombo, I should recommend 
going a little over a mile to the Galle Face Hotel. 

14 209 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

You will pass by the Government offices, looking 
out on the Gordon Gardens, and proceeding be- 
tween Queens House on the right (the Governor's 
residence, a large but ugly mass of buildings, ) and 
the new General Post Office on the left. After 
passing the Clock Tower and the Barracks, con- 
sisting of several blocks built en echelon at a great 
cost to the Colony, you will find yourself in the 
open space called the Galle Face, intersected by the 
direct road to Galle. Nearly in the centre of the 
Galle Face Esplanade is a small fort, and a little 
further to the south is the Colombo Club, a fine 
oval building looking on the sea. In about the 
middle of the promenade, near the sea, is a stone 
like a milestone, with an inscription in which Sir 
Henry Ward, who had it erected, recommends the 
walk to the care of his successors, for the use of 
ladies and children. 

Colombo and its neighborhood affords oppor- 
tunity for a multitude of charming and picturesque 
drives. Two, especially, may be mentioned, one of 
which might be taken in the morning and the other 
in the evening of the same day. The first is recom- 
mended to those who have not yet seen anything of 
the East, and to whom the native town of Colombo 
will afford a pleasing introduction to the distin- 
guishing characteristics of Oriental life and scen- 
ery ; but except the latter part of it, which is pretty, 
there is little in this drive to interest one already 
familiar with India. 

210 



WONDERFUL LITTLE CEYLON 

(1) Commence at the Galle Face Hotel and 
take the road along the sea past the Barracks until 
the statue of Sir E. Barnes is reached. He was 
Governor between 1824 and 1831. Then turn to 
the right into the Pettah, or Native Town, past an 
Old Dutch Belfry, beyond which are the Market 
Place and the Town Hall. Here two streets 
diverge, the one to the left being Sea Street, where 
dwell the dealers in rice and cotton, and where are 
two Hindu Temples, quaint and picturesque, but 
of no great size or importance, The other, Wolf en- 
dahl Street, to the right, conducts to Wolfendahl 
Church, a massive cruciform building on high 
ground, built by the Dutch in 174*9 on the site of 
an old Portuguese Church called Aqua de Lupo, 
and commanding a fine view of the city and harbor. 
Here are monuments and hatchments recording the 
decease of Dutch officials. It is the most interest- 
ing as well as the most complete of the relics of the 
Dutch occupation now remaining. Thence the 
drive may be continued through the suburb of 
Mutwal, over the Victoria Bridge crossing the 
Kelani River to Maradana, back to Galle Face. 

(2) The second drive commences by crossing 
the bridge from Galle Face almost immediately 
behind the hotel, to Slave Island, and then driving 
along the edge of a beautiful fresh water lake, past 
the pretty residence of the General commanding 
the troops in Ceylon, to Victoria Park. The trav- 
eller should not omit to notice the pretty little 

211 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

Buddhist Temple on the other side of the lake, 
nearly opposite the General's house. The Park 
occupies the old Cinnamon Gardens, and is well 
laid out with ornamental grounds, in the midst of 
which is a Museum, which was built in 1877, and is 
exclusively devoted to the exhibition of Ceylon 
products, antiquities, natural history, etc. 

After spending two or three days trying to find 
out what the rules were for motor driving, we 
started off, as we supposed, in perfect security, for 
a two weeks' motor trip through Ceylon. At the 
garage where we were able to obtain supplies, they 
told us we would be permitted to travel ten days 
without a license, and that the tax for a year for 
driving a car in Ceylon was forty rupees. This 
seemed to us to be rather high for ten days. We 
packed our luggage, said farewell to our friends at 
the hotel, and, with numerous admirers gazing at 
our heavily loaded car, started to the west, intend- 
ing to make the entire trip around the island. 

The roads were magnificent, being lined with 
cocoanut palms on both sides. The natives were 
gathering these cocoanuts, and when we felt thirsty 
we would stop the car and call to them, whereupon 
they would bring a large knife, cut the top off a 
green cocoanut, and give us the real cocoanut water 
to drink. It was delicious and refreshing. I think 
it is a sure cure for indigestion. 

I ought to give credit to the Custom House 
officer who had been so obliging in passing our 

212 



WONDERFUL LITTLE CEYLON 

baggage, and had offered to store any extra pieces 
we might have, during our absence. He gave us 
maps and directions, so that we could see and enjoy 
the most beautiful parts of Ceylon. 

For this trip we took a fresh supply of canned 
goods — milk, cream, and meats. To our delight, 
we found plenty of game, with apparently no law 
to prevent our shooting all we might need for food. 

About ten miles from Colombo, we noticed a 
motor-car going ahead of us at pretty good rate of 
speed, but as it was not making as good time as we 
wanted to, and the road was narrow, we were 
obliged to insist upon having at least room enough 
to pass. After a tooting of horns, this was granted. 
We noticed the car contained two men and the 
chauffeur, with two ladies on the rear seat. The 
passing glance we had was not enough to enable 
us to identify them in the future. We were now 
waving our fourth little American flag, also a flag 
of the American Automobile Club. The others 
had been worn out through exposure to wind and 
weather, but they were all carefully preserved. 

Shortly, we reached a most inviting-looking 
spot in the cool jungle, and as it was very hot in 
the middle of the day, we decided to camp here and 
eat our luncheon. This little camping party on 
the ground led us to be very cautious thereafter, 
for, much to our annoyance, we found little wood- 
ticks so plentiful that we were literally covered 

213 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

with them. We remembered the experience for 
many days. 

After lunching and resting, we started on, and 
obtained magnificent views of bits of the sea at 
every turn in the road. We passed lakes, and 
growing sugar-cane on all sides, and the sugar- 
cane lodges. We noticed a difference in the class 
of people we met. The Sinhalese dress in white, 
and wear nothing on their heads except a round 
comb in the hair, such as little girls at home used 
to wear. The hair is done up in a knot at the base 
of the head, making the men look like women to 
us. Women were rarely seen, as they would dis- 
appear like frightened deer when they saw a 
stranger approaching, but we noticed they wore 
their hair hanging down their backs. 

We arrived at a small Rest House at Puttalam, 
about seventy-five miles this side of Anuradhapura. 
This Rest House was very dirty, and we congratu- 
lated ourselves on having our own bedding. We 
here met two road inspectors, who greatly admired 
our car. The Chief declared that he was going to 
copy our outfit complete, as it was the only way to 
travel as they were obliged to on this island, and 
live in comfort. 

Early the next morning we started on our way 
to Anuradhapura, and on this road we met some 
of the people called " Rock Veddahs," who are 
absolute savages, wearing no clothing whatever. 
Upon seeing our car approaching, they would run 

214 



WONDERFUL LITTLE CEYLON 

and conceal themselves in the dense forest. We 
were told that these people were rarely seen by 
travellers, but the strangeness of our outfit must 
have attracted their curiosity, for we saw as many 
of them as we cared to, and felt a good deal safer 
when we were beyond their retreat. Their skill in 
handling the bow and arrow, of which they still 
habitually make use, is said to be remarkable. 

The following day, at three o'clock, we again 
stopped in the jungle for luncheon. Mr. Brooks 
killed what they call " jungle fowl," and my heart 
sank when I saw the beautiful plumage of these 
birds. The cock has the finest plumage, having 
one long curved tail f eather nearly a yard in length, 
of the most beautiful shades of brown, green, and 
yellow. The hens were not worth much for their 
feathers, but they are very good to eat, tasting 
something like guinea fowl. Albert made us an 
old-fashioned pot-pie with dumplings — a very 
savory and tempting dish. 

At Anuradhapura we visited the government 
doctor and gave up our papers, and were given a 
free passport for good health. 

We visited here the old temples, and the ruins 
of what are said \6 be the oldest pyramids, or the 
remains of pyramids, in the world, no one being 
able to tell how old they really are. 

In the dining-room of the hotel, we met some of 
Mr. James Gordon Bennett's party — a gentleman 
who had charge of the financial reports of the Euro- 

215 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

pean edition of Mr. Bennett's paper, and his wife, 
who had been guests of mine on Lake Como a 
couple of years previously. It was particularly 
pleasant to meet old friends here. This is a favor- 
ite place of Mr. James Gordon Bennett for a 
winter trip, and nearly every year he brings a party 
over on his yacht. He also brings a couple of 
motor-cars with which to tour the island. 

My friends said they were stopping at Kandy, 
and they gave us some information about the roads. 
We decided to take the one the least known, and, 
after visiting Anuradhapura, we left for Trinco- 
malee and Dambool on the way to Kandy, which 
latter place we reached about three o'clock, and 
took rooms at the Queen Hotel. Twenty dollars 
a day was charged for rooms here. Mr. Bennett's 
party arriving later on, we met again after dinner. 

The first mention of Kandy as a city is at the 
beginning of the fourteenth century, when a temple 
was built there to contain Buddha's tooth and other 
relics. From possessing these, it became an im- 
portant seat of the Buddhist hierarchy, and eventu- 
ally the residence of branches of the royal family; 
but it was not until the close of the sixteenth cen- 
tury that it was adopted as the capital of the island, 
after the destruction of Kotta, and the defeat of 
Rajah Singha II, by Wimala Dharma in 1592. 
During the wars with the Portuguese and the 
Dutch, Kandy was burned so often that scarcely 
any of the ancient buildings, except the temples 

216 



WONDERFUL LITTLE CEYLON 

and the royal residences, remained when the Eng- 
lish took it in 1815. 

Kandy is picturesquely situated on the banks 
of a small artificial lake, overhung on all sides by 
hills. A road called " Lady Horton's Walk " 
winds around one of these hills, and on the east 
side, which is almost precipitous, looks down on 
the valley of Dumbera, through which the Maha- 
weli-ganga rolls over a channel of rocks, " pre- 
senting a scene that in ma j estic beauty can scarcely 
be surpassed." In a park at the foot of this accliv- 
ity is the Pavilion of the Governor. 

Serpents are numerous here, especiall} 7 the 
cobra and the carawilla. The large black scorpion, 
as big as a crayfish, is also found here. 

No one should leave Kandy without visiting the 
Peredeniya Gardens, about four miles from Kandy, 
where we drove the second day. Here I was 
allowed to pick nutmegs, cloves, and cinnamon. 

Upon our return to the hotel, a fine-looking 
man stepped up to me and said very politely, " Is 
this Mrs. Fisher? " Upon my replying in the 
affirmative, he said, " I am very sorry, but must 
tell you that you are going to be arrested for having 
driven away from Colombo without the proper 
license for your car, and neither did you obtain a 
license for the privilege of driving your car." I 
explained to him that I had made every effort to 
obtain these licenses, but had been informed that 
as we were staying only for a few days the licenses 

217 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

would not be required, and so we had driven off 
without them. This gentleman informed me that 
he was the President of the Automobile Club, which 
was yet in its infancy, not being fully developed; 
but having heard of me through the newspapers, he 
was deeply interested in my trip and regretted 
extremely that I should be put to any inconveni- 
ence. He said that if I would make oath to the 
facts above stated, he would at once telephone to 
Colombo and see what could be done. This I did, 
and evidently his telephoning had some effect, for 
I heard nothing more about this matter. 

Every six or eight miles you will find a toll- 
gate in Ceylon, where you are obliged to pay from 
half a rupee to a rupee going one way. Save for 
hotel bills, this was the only form of graft to which 
we were especially subjected, and by comparison 
modest indeed. 

There was a good deal of interest displayed in 
rubber trees. We found many coolies at work 
along the roads, digging out tea plants and replac- 
ing them with rubber trees. As it takes at least 
three years before they can be tapped for the rub- 
ber without danger of killing the trees, there must 
be a large amount of money tied up in this business. 

While we were in Kandy we were invited to see 
an elephant kraal. This is about the most inter- 
esting sight one can see in this wonderful little 
island, unless one excepts the great pearl fisheries. 
However, one can see the actual fishing going on 

218 



WONDERFUL LITTLE CEYLON 

only once in every few years. We visited the fish- 
eries, and viewed the remains of the oysters decay- 
ing in the sun. 

In 1905 the enormous number of fifty millions 
of oysters were fished, and the government netted 
the sum of Rs. 2,626,175 — a record. The record 
revenue during the earlier years of the fishery under 
British rule was 105,187 pounds, in 1814. The 
banks lie mostly in the Gulf of Manaar, and are in 
two divisions, northern and southern, the former 
being some twenty miles square in area, at a depth 
of about seven fathoms. The Pearl Banks of 
Ceylon have excited the cupidity of the nations of 
all ages, from the Phoenicians onward. The Pearl 
Banks have now been leased by the government to 
a London Company for twenty years at a rental of 
Rs. 310,000 per annum, but there will be no pearls 
taken out for two years. 

Prom Kandy we made several little excursions, 
crossing reed bridges or ferries. We invited several 
different acquaintances that we had made on the 
trip, to join us; but this did not meet with the 
approval of the hotel people, who had motor-cars 
and carriages for rent. 

Here on this beautiful little island, we found 
the highest civilization and also the most extreme 
degradation; and between these two extremes one 
could find almost everything the heart could desire. 

We were fifteen thousand feet above sea level, 
and I again found my heart affected by the high 

219 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

altitude; so we decided to leave Kandy, winding 
our way around the island to the other side, to 
Colombo, making about seventy-five or eighty 
miles a day. The roads are well built but narrow 
and have sharp turns and curves, and we had to 
keep our horns going almost constantly, for we 
were never sure when we would have to pass a 
motor car or a bullock cart going up or down. In 
different parts of the island one gets magnificent 
views of Adams Peak, the most celebrated, though 
not the highest, mountain in Ceylon. 

We decided to stop half way down and visit the 
sapphire and ruby mines and see them getting the 
stones out of the earth. We were obliged to leave 
the car, but we left Albert in charge, while Mr. 
Brooks, Maria, and I started for a long tramp into 
the mines. We found it very interesting, and saw 
so many precious stones that we looked at them 
finally with only about the same curiosity and 
interest one would look at a rare pebble, losing any 
desire to possess them. Here also moonstones are 
found in large quantities. 




' BILLIK.INS, THE MONKEY 

XVIII 

FROM COLOMBO TO SHANGHAI 

AS we were travelling leisurely along toward 
/"\ Colombo, I noticed a baby monkey darting 
in and out of the tea-bushes. We stopped 
the car, and I climbed out and followed this little 
monkey to a hut. We were told it was a part of 
Sir Thomas Lipton's tea plantation, and that the 
man living there with his family was the care-taker. 
I tried by signs to make them understand that I 
desired to possess this baby monkey, and after 
manoeuvres and coaxing, the little fellow jumped 
on my hand, and I soon had him in a firm grasp. 
After much bargaining with the owner, I received 
permission to carry him away, much to the dis- 
gust of the rest of my party, who anticipated all 
sorts of trouble for me and my new pet; but to 
my delight and their surprise, he curled up in my 

221 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

arms and seemed to enjoy the motoring, as though 
he had been used to it all his life. 

We presently stopped at a charming little Rest 
House, where they had a good cook, and with the 
provisions we had left in our hampers, we lived 
there very well. Mr. Brooks would go out early 
in the morning for game, and Albert would pre- 
pare the different dishes that our Sinhalese friend 
could not. Finding here a lovely river with beau- 
tiful rocks, Maria decided to take this opportunity 
to do our washing, which had accumulated, and as 
I had my new pet with which to amuse myself, we 
were a happy family party for three days. We 
had the blue sea on one side, and the river dashing 
down the rocks and then quietly resting in pools 
before it finally emptied itself into the sea. 

We arrived at the Galle Face Hotel after a 
pleasant trip. The little monkey was well received, 
and I christened him " Billikins," for I expected 
him to bring me good luck. From the Galle Face 
we made many delightful excursions, returning at 
night to the comforts of the hotel. Here we had 
our second storm — thunder and lightning with the 
rain, which came down in torrents, soaking every- 
thing, even to the rooms in the hotel. 

After dinner one evening, the American consul, 
Mr. Davis, came up and asked permission to pre- 
sent to me Sir Thomas Lipton and two ladies who 
accompanied him. After the introduction, Sir 
Thomas laughingly shook his finger at me and said, 

222 



FROM COLOMBO TO SHANGHAI 

"Do you remember passing a motor-car about two 
weeks ago leaving Colombo?" I did remember 
that incident, and he continued, " We were sur- 
prised to rind here a car larger than mine, as I 
flattered myself I owned the largest car on the 
Island of Ceylon. After you passed us I saw that 
little American flag flaunted in my face, and upon 
inquiring at the hotel on my return, I found the car 
belonged to Mrs. Clark Fisher, who was making a 
trip around the world in it." 

After introducing me to the ladies, Sir Thomas 
invited me to turn back and accompany their party 
to England, that I might enjoy the races with 
them. I regretted indeed that I could not accept. 

The day arrived when we were to sail on the 
Delta from Colombo. Mr. Brooks again packed 
the motor in its case, the money deposited with the 
Custom House was returned to me in check, and 
we were all ready to start for China. The motor 
was to go on to Japan, where we were to meet it 
later. There, too, we were to find Honk-Honk, 
who had preceded us. 

We were joined by His Highness the Maharaja 
of Baroda and his party, consisting of Her High- 
ness the Maharani, the Princess, and their suite; 
and a jollier party never left any port. From 
Colombo we sailed to Penang, arriving there on 
April 7th. From Penang we steamed to Singa- 
pore, where we landed. The government officials 
met His Highness, and we all accepted an invita- 

223 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

tion to drive around Singapore and have dinner at 
the hotel. There were about seventeen of us alto- 
gether, and we were divided up into small parties, 
and after dinner were driven around the narrow 
streets. This place is like most shipping ports, and 
I felt no desire to remain, but was quite ready to 
sail on the following morning to Hongkong, where 
we went ashore and took a peep at the city. From 
there we went on to Shanghai, arriving there April 
14th. 

On the way to China it was an amusing thing to 
us to see the Englishmen darting around the boat 
in their pajamas in the morning, with the same con- 
fidence they display when dressed for the Strand. 
I understand that during the extremely hot weather 
the ladies go around in their dressing gowns. 

When you start on an Eastern trip, you must 
provide yourself with your own steamer chair ; and 
in consequence you see all sorts and conditions of 
chairs brought into requisition on board these 
steamers, making the decks look very queer. Some 
of the chairs are veritable couches, and they are 
used as such on deck during the awful heat. 

The same system that is used on the Atlantic 
steamers would be convenient, for without a 
steamer chair one feels absolutely helpless; and a 
chair costs one about ten times the original price by 
the time you carry it around with you and land it 
at the end of your voyage. 

At Shanghai the ships land you almost right in 

224 



FROM COLOMBO TO SHANGHAI 

the city, at low wharves made of solid stone. It is 
almost like walking off a ferry-boat to land there. 

Our hearts were gladdened as we noticed a trim 
rowboat flying the flag of our country. A score of 
brawny arms worked the oars with clock-like pre- 
cision, causing a swift, steady motion of the boat, 
and furnishing a contrast to the sluggish motion of 
the native craft. The grotesque appearance of the 
latter is accentuated by eyes painted on both sides 
of the bow, for " No can see, how fashion can 
savee? " The square, ruffled, bat-wing sails of the 
Chinese boats, originally white, are stained a deep 
brown wherever the primal material has survived, 
and patches of blue in all its shades give them the 
appearance of crazy-quilts. We witnessed the spec- 
tacle described by old travellers, of men and women 
propelling the sculls of a small craft, slowly drag- 
ging a junk a hundred times the size of the man- 
power tug. On some of the fishing boats, we saw 
women and children engaged in making baskets; 
while their scanty fare simmers on the tiny stove, 
and the nets are suspended from the sides of the 
boats. 

For four miles from Shanghai the water-front 
is lined with cotton mills, paper factories, ship- 
yards, wharves, docks, godowns, shipping offices, 
and workshops. To the right is Hongkew, for- 
merly called the American settlement, divided from 
the old English settlement by the Woosung River, 
called by residents Soochow Creek. The Woosung 

225 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

River was once over three miles broad, whereas now 
it measures hardly three hundred feet across. Dur- 
ing the last quarter of the nineteenth century the 
breadth of the Whangpoo River, formerly a nar- 
row canal, decreased from eighteen hundred feet 
to eleven hundred feet. At the Potung Point, 
opposite which the Woosung and Whangpoo join 
waters, we round a right angle bend. We have now 
before us the heart of the Model Settlement, and 
we cannot fail to be impressed with the solidity of 
the buildings, which appear to spell the motto of 
the Champion Colonists : " We have come to 
stay." But we have barely time to admire the gen- 
eral appearance, having arrived at the landing 
stage, usually crowded with Shanghai residents to 
welcome their friends. Tourists and officers of the 
army and navy are certain to be overwhelmed with 
invitations to social parties of a variety such as only 
the " Paris of the East " can offer. 

We are not harassed by officious customs in- 
spectors as is the case in Manila, New York, San 
Francisco, and in Continental Europe. The ex- 
amination is a mere formality, lasting only a few 
moments, and enabling us to reach our hotel shortly 
after our arrival; but heavy baggage is detained 
for thorough examination in the Custom House 
shed. 

Shanghai's far-famed Bund commences at the 
Garden Bridge which spans the Soochow Creek, the 
dividing line between the old English and Amer- 

226 



FROM COLOMBO TO SHANGHAI 

ican Settlements. The Public Gardens are close to 
the bridge, and are for the exclusive use of foreign 
residents, visitors, and Ahmas in charge of for- 
eign children. The Band Stand, where the town 
band diffuses choice music, is surrounded by a 
spacious lawn. Gravel paths, shaded by stately 
trees and bordered by flower beds and shrubs, lead 
to rustic summer-houses, kiosks, grottos, and foun- 
tains. The plot on which the Gardens are located 
was formerly the anchorage for large vessels. After 
the sinking of a boat, sand accumulated, and this 
part of the river front was dubbed, " The Consular 
Mudflat." 

Crossing the street, one may enter the Conser- 
vatories, which contain rare plants and shrubs from 
many climes. 

The queer thing to me about these Public Gar- 
dens is that not one Chinaman is permitted to enter 
them — only the English and American residents, 
and the Ahmas, or nurses, who accompanied the 
children. The Chinese, however, pay the cost of 
keeping up these Parks. The little Chinese tots, 
with shaven heads except for a little round spot on 
the top, their little kimonos quite short, are an 
interesting sight as they stand by the hour peeping 
through the rails with a wistful expression on their 
small faces, wishing that they too might be allowed 
to scramble on the grass and enjoy some of the 
privileges of the white children. 

Two trained nurses who had been sent over by 

227 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

the English government to Shanghai notified the 
head doctor of the hospital that neither of them 
expected to stay any longer than to prepare their 
wedding outfit, as both had become engaged to be 
married while on board the ship. The men to whom 
they were engaged, however, had to pay to the 
hospital three months of the salary the girls would 
have received. I was told also that in some of the 
larger shops they had great difficulty in securing 
the services of English girls, as nearly every woman 
or girl with any pretensions to looks at all gets 
married either before or as soon as she reaches there. 
These girls are required to make a contract with the 
shops to stay for six months or forfeit that amount 
of their salary. I heard that some of the shop- 
keepers have on each steamer a party going out, 
expecting to make a profit on their time, and feeling 
quite sure that they will meet some man who will 
prefer companionship in the Ear East to living- 
there alone. 

We rested at our hotel, and after the curiosity 
of the Chinese had been satisfied by shaking hands 
with Billikins, we started out for a little trip around 
Shanghai, taking in the Gardens. On returning to 
the hotel, we were delighted again to meet our 
friends of Mr. Atkins's party, from Philadelphia, 
who arrived the day after we did, on another 
steamer. 

There is a fairly good theatre in Shanghai, and 
of course Parks and Monuments to visit. 

228 



FROM COLOMBO TO SHANGHAI 

One day we devoted to seeing Old Shanghai, 
the native quarter, where the famous Willow Pat- 
tern Bungalow stands, but which is now surrounded 
with a dirty pond filled with all sorts of filth. This 
is about the only trip where it is necessary to take 
with you a private detective or guide from the hotel. 
We were informed that we would not be allowed 
to enter this place without a guide, although we felt 




THE WILLOW PATTERN" BUNGALOW, SHANGHAI 

no fear; but the}^ told us that many Western visit- 
ors who had gone in there were never heard of 
afterward. It gives the government a great deal 
of trouble and anxiety. 

Our guide advised us to buy five hundred coins 
to throw out to the people and prevent them from 
touching us. We were also advised to wear rain- 
coats or provide ourselves with a covering of some 
kind, and to wear short skirts, as otherwise we 

229 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

might carry back some disease; but we were out for 
sightseeing, and after passing through so many 
experiences, this seemed a trivial affair to us. 
When I tell you that the five hundred coins amount 
to only about one dollar of our money, }^ou may 
know how much they represent. As you walk 
along, you simply throw these coins, as you see the 
figures of the Chinamen approaching you. The 
cunning faces of these coolies do not make you feel 
any too secure. 

Some of the most awful sights I have ever wit- 
nessed were the figures seated around the entrance 
to Old Shanghai. Some of the faces were horribly 
mutilated, some having one side of the face entirety 
eaten away, showing the teeth to the roots. Here 
again, we come in contact with the flies, but the 
Chinese, like the Egyptians, do not seem to mind 
them. Undoubtedly they carry the germs of these 
horrible diseases. 

Here too we found hundreds of men working in 
silver and gold, and cutting stones. Many of the 
turquoises cut here came originally from America, 
sent here by the boxful to be cut, and sold again 
to the Americans as Chinese stones. Lamps and 
candlesticks, incense burners and bamboo pipes, are 
manufactured here, and there are a number of silk 
factories. I also found here a small man painting 
scrolls, that were very beautiful and very represen- 
tative of the Chinese. 

At last we reached the Willow Pattern Bun- 
galow, after crowding our way over a small bridge. 

230 



FROM COLOMBO TO SHANGHAI 

This bridge is always filled with people, so that 
one must push and crowd and become almost vicious 
in making one's way. In mingling with this crowd 
you always have the feeling that possibly you are 
taking something unpleasant with you. 

At this Bungalow we were offered tea, which 
our guide advised us to buy but not to drink. 
Whether or not this was his extra tip, I do not 
know, but I fancied he got one-half the money, as 
he stayed behind for a while after we had started 
in another direction. 

Here we found the people worshipping and 
praying to idols and golden images. Their gods 
were covered with dirty old rags, tied to every avail- 
able place in the temples. The fortune-tellers also 
seem to make a great deal of money here, for the 
Chinese are very superstitious, and do nothing 
without first consulting with one of these mysteri- 
ous men. They shake up a lot of sticks in a long 
thin tube, and you pay a small price and pull out 
one of the sticks. On this stick there is a number, 
and this number signifies whether or not you will 
be lucky; or, if you wish to gamble, it will tell you 
what numbers to play to be certain of winning. 
Men bring singing birds and put them on the table 
while they gamble. I often wondered whether they 
won an} r thing, and, if so, what they did with the 
money. But I presume if one should be lucky, he 
would go back and spend it again, trying to win 
more money. 

The effects of opium here are very apparent. 

231 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

The opium fiends seem to be harmless, stupefied 
individuals, lying around on stone benches, with 
thickly wadded kimonos wrapped around them, and 
their queues tied up around their heads as a Ger- 
man maiden braids and winds her hair. Each of 
these Chinamen wears a small, American-looking 
sailor hat stuck on the back of his head. They told 
me they would sleep for hours like this, and that 
during this sleep they would have the most beau- 
tiful dreams. After a while this wears away, and 
they become veritable fiends. 

Another day we were invited to visit a police 
court, and here I was told by the English judge, 
what sat on the bench with a Chinese official, that 
nearly all the cases were those of men brought 
before him on the charge of kidnapping, as the 
Chinese will seize young boys or girls and take them 
off and sell them, or else make them work for them. 
The way they brought two criminals into court was 
very amusing, as they had tied the queues of these 
prisoners together. These the constable or police- 
man held in his left hand, while in his right he 
carried his short sword. In this manner they were 
led up to the criminal bar. If the child kidnapped 
was a girl, and the evidence was strong enough to 
convict the prisoner, he lost his head. 

The immorality of the Chinese women is de- 
plorable, women not hesitating to sell their own 
daughters at the age of nine or ten years to any 
purchaser having the desired amount of money. 

232 



FROM COLOMBO TO SHANGHAI 

Any night you can meet these old hags walking the 
street with a young girl looking fatigued and wist- 
ful, and it only needs a purchaser to send this old 
hag indoors. There seems to he no feeling of shame 
or degradation about these people. 

The Chinese merchant strikes us as a queer sort 
of business man compared to other Eastern mer- 
chants. You will find that bargaining here is out 
of the question. The Chinaman tells you the price 
of the article, and if you do not accept it he turns 
his back. Nothing will induce him to yield a half 
cent. He looks with disgust at any person Avho 
attempts to bargain with him. 

The silks in the shops are beautiful, and one is 
certainly tempted to purchase. All the pastel 
shades that can be imagined are here spread out to 
view, and at such low prices that it is almost impos- 
sible to resist. 

The only disappointment I had in my whole 
trip was in not being able again to see my good 
friend, Mr. Wu Ting Fang, who arrived in Peking 
just about the time I was leaving for Japan. The 
trip to Peking is a tiresome one by train, and unless 
one is going to make a long stay in China, and can 
stand the awful stench which is continually assail- 
ing the olfactory organs, I should advise the trav- 
eller to cut this out of the trip. It is intensely 
disagreeable on account of the odors ; and one soon 
forgets that one has been there. The temples, and 
the scenes of the Boxer uprising, are interesting; 

233 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

but unless you know some of the government offi- 
cials, you will be pretty sure to be glad to get back 
to the civilization of Shanghai. 

While writing this account of my trip to China, 
I am not surprised to read in the daily papers of 
the awful ravages made by the plague and the 
smallpox in that country, especially when I recall 
the native quarter and the bridge in Shanghai. The 
shores of this water were literally lined with filth 
and dead animals, and the stench of the place as the 
hot sun beat down upon it was almost unbearable. 

The Chinese people, especially the coolies, have 
no idea of order or cleanliness, and are good sub- 
jects for disease of all kinds; but when one comes 
in contact with the educated and travelled China- 
man, one finds he enjoys all that is best in life. He 
sees and understands the condition of his people, 
and I think he is trying, with the rest of the Eastern 
world, to become more Westernized in his ideas of 
civilization. 

They almost all know or have heard something 
of America, especially in the ports ; and it was not 
an unusual thing to find your 'rickshaw man saying 
to you, " Me know New York; me know Philadel- 
phia. Nice place ; much money. No money China, 
but wife and children here. Me go back to America 
some time." And there his conversational powers 
in the English language would seem to end. 

They are all very greedy to get as much out of 
the traveller as possible, and when you settle with 

234 



FROM COLOMBO TO SHANGHAI 

your 'rickshaw man you will generally find a police- 
man carefully watching the operation to see that 
no advantage is taken of you. These policemen are 
usually Sikhs or Indians, sent to China by the Eng- 
lish government. 

A common sight in the street is a long, narrow, 
one-wheeled cart, loaded with from eight to ten 
people. This is the public street car, and it requires 
expert manipulation to keep the cart from tipping 
over with its load. 

In Shanghai they now have trolley-cars encir- 
cling the city, and the clang-clang of the gongs 
makes one feel at home; but it will be many years 
before they will be able to pull down enough build- 
ings to make room for trolley-cars in the interior of 
the city. They are acquainted with the telegraph 
and the telephone, and seem fully awake to the 
necessity for all modern improvements. What it 
must have been only twenty years ago, one can only 
imagine. I felt that I was here none too soon to 
see a little of what had been in the past. Even 
while writing this account of the usefulness of the 
Chinese queue when the culprit is being haled to 
jail, the queue is becoming a thing of the past, for 
the edict has gone forth that all queues shall dis- 
appear among the higher classes, and it will be 
only a short time before all Chinamen will be queue- 
less! I am wondering what the police in Shanghai 
and Peking will do with their prisoners now. Mere 
handcuffs are so unpicturesque! 




THE INI, AND SEA OF JAPAN 



XIX 

JAPAN 

WE decided to try the German line from 
China to Japan, as we had made some 
pretty long trips on the English lines and 
wished to see the difference. We sailed on the 
Buelow, and it was a decided change suddenly to 
find ourselves where we heard the German tongue 
from the stewards to the passengers. Nearly all 
spoke either German or French. 

Comfortable staterooms were given to us, and 
we took our first luncheon on board the ship. It 
was as good as a play to watch the different expres- 
sions on the faces of our party, as here we had what 
we Americans call regular " Dutch " cooking — this 

236 



JAPAN 

designation so often being erroneously used when 
one wishes to express a dislike for anything 
German. 

On the morning of the 26th of April, we arrived 
at Nagasaki, and went ashore. We were met by 
the Governor General of Nagasaki, and the same 
courtesy was shown to His Highness of Baroda 
and his party as we had before received. We trav- 
elled in 'rickshaws, as the streets are very narrow, 
having been dug out along the side of the moun- 
tains. One sees no horses here, only these narrow 
'rickshaws. In this manner we obtained our first 
view of Japan, and here we witnessed a Cherry 
Dance. 

As word had been sent of our arrival, we were 
supposed to receive special privileges; and on ar- 
riving at a little bungalow, a house made of thin 
wood, with windows of rice paper, we went up a 
decidedly shaky stairwajr, after first removing our 
shoes, to the rooms above. Shoes are not permitted 
to be worn in the houses in Japan. 

We found ourselves in a double room, with a 
clean matting on the floor, and outside of each room 
a little balcony that would accommodate five or six 
of these little Japanese people. Square cushions 
covered with silk were placed in a semicircle around 
the room, and we all took seats, His Highness of 
Baroda, Her Highness, myself, the Princess, Mr. 
Brooks, and so on. We were immediately served 
with tea brought in tiny cups on diminutive trays, 

237 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

and also with sweets and Japanese rice-cakes, a 
flaky little biscuit that crackles and crumbles at 
the slightest touch. 

Presently the proprietor of the bungalow 
entered, dressed in an artistic kimono, and with a 
smiling face he dropped on his knees with his two 
2)alms outward, touching the floor with his forehead 
three times before each of the guests, until I thought 
the poor man would get dizzy. Then five little girls 
came in, none of them apparently over twelve years 
of age, the youngest about nine years. They were 
dressed in bright-colored kimonos, embroidered 
with wistaria and cherry blossoms, and their hair 
was arranged perfectly, not a hair out of place. 
They paid a like courtesy to our party, and we in 
turn acknowledged it. Then four Geisha dancers 
came in with musical instruments on which they 
began to twang and bang. I am quite sure some 
of our American boys would get more music out 
of an old tin can; however, everything is done in 
such a dignified way that one hardly dares suggest 
that it is anything but music. The five little girls 
began to flirt their fans in time to this music, bring- 
ing them up and just covering the lower part of 
their faces, and peeping over the tops of the fans in 
an engaging manner. Then they joined in a chant, 
singing out a long O-O-O-o-o and stamping with 
one foot, turning on the other foot while they made 
this noise, which finished the first part of the per- 
formance. Next they came out with artificial flow- 

238 



JAPAN 

ers representing cherry blossoms, and did more of 
this dancing, and we were told they were giving us 
the " Dance of the Four Seasons." 

After this they came out with masks, perfectly 
hideous to behold, and made of a sort of plaster and 
held up in front of their faces on sticks; they did 
not pretend to put them on, as we do. As you saw 
these grotesque-looking faces, with a child's pretty 
face peeping out at one side, it was odd and 
amusing. 

This lasted an hour, and then the little maidens 
came and squatted before us, examining with child- 
ish curiosity our jewelry and our clothes, and lifting 
up the edges of our dresses to examine the material. 
The}^ seemed as pleased and delighted as any chil- 
dren would be with a novelty. 

Again tea was brought in, which I understood 
afterward was arranged for by their Highnesses; 
also some fruit was served, and a drink called sake, 
which is very dangerous if partaken of freely. 
They say the effects felt the next day are worse 
than if one had imbibed half a case of champagne. 
This sake, by the way, none of our paiiy touched. 
The Hindus are very temperate, not using liquor 
or tobacco in any form. Neither did I find any of 
the Indians in their own country using liquor or 
tobacco, excejDt those who had come in contact with 
the Westerner through living in large cities, or 
who had been on board ships. 

239 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

After salaaming and presenting each of the 
little maidens with a coin, we were escorted out to 
our 'rickshaws. We visited temples, and drove to 
the cemetery, in which they take great pride. It 
was a veritable bower of flowers, and one could not 
but admire the artistic taste displayed in the ar- 
rangement. It seemed as if we were visiting the 
living, and not the city of the dead, for the flowers 
in their brilliant colorings and gay dress turned 
every thought toward life. 

Nagasaki is celebrated for its work in tortoise- 
shell. They make almost everything imaginable of 
this material, and this is their main means of sup- 
port. The place is well worth a visit, but I could 
not imagine any one wanting to stay there for any 
length of time. We went to the hotel, where we 
had a good dinner, and about three o'clock returned 
to our steamer and started for Kobe. 

On reaching Kobe, we said farewell to the party 
of His Highness of Baroda, as they were going 
direct to Tokyo by train, their motor-car not yet 
having arrived. 

My first commission was to look up Honk- 
Honk, who had been shipped direct from Calcutta 
to Kobe. We went to the office of Brown's Ship- 
ping Company and asked for Mr. C. M. Birnie. A 
polite clerk told us that Mr. Birnie was at home 
that day, and gave us his home address. We told 
him our errand, and he smilingly said, " Oh, yes! 

240 



JAPAN 

Honk-Honk is well known in Kobe. And so you 
are his mistress? " 

I answered, yes, and asked if Honkie was well, 
and he replied that he was, and was beloved by 
everybody, and that it would be very hard for the 
Birnie family to part with the little dog. We 
engaged two 'rickshaws, and Mr. Brooks and I 
drove to the bungalow built on the side of the moun- 
tain, reminding me very much of the scene in 
" Madame Butterfly," which is a perfect copy of 
this place. Just as we reached the gate a gentle- 
man appeared and said, " I presume you are Mrs. 
Fisher, the owner of Honk-Honk? " 

I replied that I was, and he explained that he 
was Mr. Birnie. He had been about to start for 
the office, but would go back with us to the house, 
as Mrs. Birnie was not at home just then. He said 
he wanted to see if Honk-Honk recognized his 
mistress. " If he does not," said Mr. Birnie, " I 
will tell you right now I am going to claim him, 
for my children are in love with him, and we have 
all been dreading your arrival." 

I said we would see what would happen, and 
that if Honk-Honk did not recognize his mistress, 
they might keep him. Mr. Birnie opened the gate 
with his key, and as he did so he called to his chil- 
dren and said, " Where is Honkie? " I called out, 
"Honk-Honk, where are you?" The words had 
hardly escaped me when Honk-Honk recognized 
me. He was on top of me and over me, barking 

241 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

and turning in circles, and then making dives at me, 
until my gown and gloves were in a deplorable con- 
dition. Much to the regret of Mr. Birnie's little son 
and daughter, Honkie apparently did not know 
them any more; he would not allow me out of his 
sight. The children came and sat down by my side, 
almost in tears, each taking turns putting their 
arms around the little dog, and saying, " Are you 
really going to take Honkie away with you? He 
has been so nice. He is the best hunter of cats you 
ever saw. He has lamed one or two of our ducks, 
too; but we did not care, if the old ducks did not 
know enough to keep out of his way. It is great 
fun to see him go after the ducks." 

Mr. Birnie said that the captain of the ship and 
the whole crew held a funeral march when they 
brought Honkie away. As we knew the consul, 
there was no trouble about getting a permit for the 
dog to land. Mr. Birnie showed me a cocoanut 
shell on which some sailor had carved his initials 
and Honk-Honk's, and this had been his ball on 
board ship. My slippers and the letter sent with 
Honk-Honk are still preserved in the Captain's 
cabin of the Catherine Apgar, and the Captain 
informed Mr. Birnie that he intended to keep them 
as souvenirs. 

We were about to depart when Mrs. Birnie ar- 
rived. A charming little English lady she proved 
to be. Seeing the tears in the eyes of the children 
as they were saying farewell to Honkie, she asked 

242 



JAPAN 

if we would not come up again and bring him to 
call before we left. Upon telling Mr. Birnie that 
we intended to motor from Kobe to Yokohama, he 
said, " I fear, Mrs. Fisher, you do not know what 
you are up against. Japan is an old country, but 
has been slow in adopting new ideas, and the roads 
are narrow — in fact, nothing but paths in some 
places. Some of the rivers are very dangerous, too, 
and the bridges are not strong enough to carry the 
weight of anything more than the 'rickshaws." 

To all of which I replied that I would take my 
chances, and would let him know how we made out. 

We returned to the hotel with Honk-Honk, 
where we were met by newspaper men, each clam- 
oring to be the first to interview us on our intended 
motor trip. Mr. Yoshihiro Yamakawa introduced 
himself as representing the Osaka Daily News. He 
was extremely anxious to accompany us on our 
trip to Osaka, saying it was the first large car that 
had ever been there. If we could possibly get 
through, he would like to be with us, and in case 
we met with any difficulty, he could speak the lan- 
guage. He explained to us with a great deal of 
dignity that the Japanese common people were 
terribly afraid of newspaper criticism — as who 
is not. 

I told Mr. Yamakawa that Mr. Brooks was just 
going to the Custom House to get our car. We 
were told that the Japanese people had read in some 
newspaper about our intended visit, and were much 

243 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

pleased that an American woman had so much 
confidence in the people and the country as to make 
this trip. 

This was all quite different from what I had 
been led to expect, and because of the kindness of 
the people to my little dog, as well as to our whole 
party, I was in a happ}^ frame of mind. The intro- 
duction of Honk-Honk to his new brother, 
Billikins, required some tact, and it was not 
accomplished without a palpitation of the heart. 
As Honkie had chased monkeys in the jungle, 
and was decidedly ferocious toward anything 
possessing fur and a tail, we anticipated that 
there might be a funeral shortly after these 
two had been introduced; but, as I have before 
remarked, Honk-Honk seems to have a superior 
mind, open to reason. I took him alone in a room, 
and, having covered up Billikins under my arm, I 
produced just his head, which considerably excited 
Honk-Honk; but I talked to him, and allowed him 
to smell of the little monkey, and at any attempt at 
too much familiarity I boxed his ears; so he soon 
wisely decided that he and Billikins would be good 
friends, and they are the best of friends to this day. 
Honkie allows Billikins to pull his ears or turn 
somersaults on his back. With my Japanese Cheen 
dog, which I afterward acquired, they form a 
happy family group. 

About four o'clock I heard a familiar sound, 
and on looking out of my window saw Mr. Brooks 

244 



JAPAN 

and Albert with my motor-car, both looking tri- 
umphant. Mr. Brooks told me that the Custom 
House authorities had passed the car without re- 
quiring any deposit, and had given us the courtesy 
of the port during our stay in Japan. For the 




BILLIKIXS AT HOME 



benefit of other motorists going to Japan, I would 
say that the regular rate of Custom House duties 
is very high; as much, I believe, as forty cents on 
the dollar. 

In arranging for my motor trip through Japan 
to Yokohama, it was particularly pleasing every- 
where to meet cordial and friendly people. I felt 

245 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

as if I had known these people for years, and forgot 
their quaint dress and their wooden shoes, because 
of their constant effort to make me welcome. 

Billikins attracted the attention and admiration 
of every one with whom he came in contact, with 
his friendly, knowing look, and his little hand 
always stretched out to return friendly greetings. 
There was no longer any sense of strangeness to 
me in this far-away land ; in fact, not so much as I 
felt the other day upon arriving in New York City, 
not taking a ferry-boat, but going through a tunnel 
and arriving in that immense white marble and 
stone building representing American energy and 
enterprise. 

The Kobe Herald of Friday, April 29, 1910, 
published the following, in English print, on the 
day after my arrival there : 

ROUND THE WORLD MOTOR-CAR RIDE 

An Interesting Personality in Kobe 

By the Buelow last night there arrived here an American 
lady, Mrs. Clark Fisher, who has had already a remarkable 
career, and who seems intent upon rounding it off in a still 
more remarkable manner. . . . Mrs. Fisher is staying at 
the Mikado Hotel, with her Italian maid, and a young Amer- 
ican engineer, Mr. Harold Fisher Brooks, who acts as 
chauffeur, photographer, etc. Mrs. Fisher is enthusiastic about 
her trip, and takes more pleasure in chatting about the experi- 
ences she and her companions have had on the trip than the 
average lady does in discussing social problems, engagements, 
and triumphs. They have already motored through France, 

246 



JAPAN 

Italy and Switzerland, India and Ceylon. Throughout their 
entire journey not a stone has been thrown at the car, nor has 
the slightest evidence of ill-feeling been shown. This, we 
imagine, is due in some measure to the fact that Mrs. Clark 
Fisher, we are glad to say, has no sympathy with the mad and 
inconsiderate motor enthusiasts who go tearing through the 
country regardless of the rights other people and other vehicles 
have to the high road. The party landed at Bombay and then 
motored to Gwalior, Agra, Delhi, Cawnpore, Allahabad, 
Benares, Asensol, and thence to Calcutta, covering a total 
distance of about two thousand miles. The journey occupied 
about thirty-one days. Of the trip all through this country 
Mrs. Fisher retains only the kindest thoughts, and has words 
of praise for the reception she met with, and the hospitality 
shown her. At Benares Mrs. Fisher was the guest of H. H. 
the Maharaja, and at Allahabad of Mr. Nehru, of the hos- 
pitalities of whose families she has the most delightful 
recollections. 

Mrs. Clark P'isher is looking forward with the keenest 
interest to her trip through Japan. As she naively puts it, she 
wants to catch a glimpse of this interesting country before all 
the picturesque features of its old history are lost in the dust 
of twentieth century civilization. Her husband, who held the 
rank of Lieutenant-Commander of the United States Navy at 
the time of his death, was out here about forty years ago. 
Mrs. Clark Fisher says " she comes not to criticise, but to 
learn." The party will remain here a few days to stock up in 
canned goods and provisions for their trip, and Mrs. Fisher is 
delighted to find here American goods, showing reciprocity. 

The car is a forty horse-power Locomobile, manufactured 
at Bridgeport, Conn., and during the twelve months it has been 
in service not twenty-five cents have been spent for repairs. 
It is an ordinary car, with this exception: it is fitted with a 
thirty-two-gallon tank, to enable Mrs. Fisher to travel four 
hundred miles on one filling. It carries several trunks, tents, 

247 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

etc. — enough gear, in fact, to enable the party to camp out 
when and if necessary. 

Mrs. Fisher can claim the distinction of being the only 
woman member of the National Association of Manufacturers, 
and shortly before leaving America she was royally enter- 
tained in New York by the Automobile Club of America, which 
was another distinction, as up to that time, at least, she was 
the only woman who had ever been entertained by the Auto- 
mobile Club. 

We have said enough to show that we have in our midst just 
at the moment a lady of strikingly powerful personality, one 
versed in most of life's spheres, and who nevertheless retains 
the warm-hearted, sympathetic outlook on life that belongs pre- 
eminently to woman, and that charm of manner which is one 
of her truest gifts. We shall look forward with interest to 
the messages Mrs. Clark Fisher will have to deliver on her 
return to the States. 

A note from Mrs. Birnie informed that her hus- 
band was ill, and asked if I would not come up and 
see her, which I did, and found her very anxious. 
We soon discovered that Mr. Birnie was down with 
typhoid fever, which was prevalent. We had been 
warned not to eat any salad or green vegetables, as 
the Japanese are sometimes careless in washing 
them, and the germ of typhoid lurks in these foods. 
I offered my assistance, and made myself at home 
helping Mrs. Birnie in nursing her husband, until 
she was able to get outside assistance. An English 
imrse was an impossibility to obtain at any price. 

Among the interesting and amusing things I 
witnessed on my journeys back and forth from 

24S 



JAPAN 

Mrs. Birnie's house to the hotel, were the house- 
cleaning operations, which took place in the open, 
the whole street for blocks being piled with the 
scanty furnishings. Men and women scrubbed and 
cleaned all day long, after which the few modest 
pieces of furniture and wearing apparel were again 
put in place. At first, I thought there had been a 
fire, or that there was a general auction going on. 
A newspaper man who accompanied me in order to 
get for his beloved paper my first impressions of 
his dearly beloved country, explained to me that 
this was a weekly operation. 

Of course the Japanese always eat on the floor, 
leaving their shoes outside the door. They sleep 
on padded quilts on the floor, never owning more 
than two or three kimonos, and they are just begin- 
ning to adopt a stocking with the big toe separated 
from the others — so one can appreciate the sim- 
plicity in which these quaint little people live. Their 
diet is confined mostly to rice, sugar-cane, and tea, 
or what we would call hot water, for the tea is 
almost imperceptible to our Western taste. 

Everywhere we went, into shops or pagodas, the 
people seemed to know us and welcomed us with 
great cordiality and friendliness. 

The proprietor of the Mikado Hotel obtained 
for me a Japanese boy who had been in America 
and spoke fairty good English. He said he had 
" biked " through to Osaka and Kyote. We called 
him Frank for short, and for the first time since I 

249 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

had landed in Japan I noticed in him what might 
be termed a little undue familiarity. Having been 
in America, in what capacity I do not know, he was 
inclined to think that Americans should be treated 
familiarly to make them feel at home. For his 
services I was to pay three yen (a little over a 
dollar) a day, he to take care of himself and find 
his own sleeping accommodations. I engaged him 
only by the day, so that in case I did not find him 
satisfactoiy, I would get into no trouble by sending 
him off at once, and I took the precaution to have a 
written agreement to that effect. 

Our first trial trip with the motor-car was to 
Osaka, as we wanted to see if our car was too wide 
for the narrow roads, and we wanted also to try 
to get maps of Japan, giving us routes through the 
interior, or via any roads that might be passable 
for our car. There are only two cities where maps 
can be obtained in Japan, and these are military 
maps and printed in Japanese. These we finally 
obtained, through the courtesy of a Japanese offi- 
cial. Although they were in a language we could 
not read, my native boy was able to study them out, 
and they proved of great assistance to us, enabling 
us at least to know we were going in the right 
direction. 




AT NAGOYA 



w 



XX 

THE MIKADO'S PALACE 

E started out for Osaka with hundreds of 
curious people watching us, and we did 
not return that night until after midnight. 
From Kobe to Osaka is one continuous line of 
paddy or rice fields. The river running in be- 
tween trenches supplies the irrigation. In some 
of the little villages, the streets through which 
we passed were so narrow that by putting out 
my hand I could touch the roofs of the houses. 
In turning one sharp curve, where, in their ener- 
getic desire to modernize, they had planted a 
big telephone pole, we were obliged to get per- 
mission of the occupant of the little corner house 
to take down the side of the house and remove the 
shutters. Otherwise we should probably have been 

251 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

there until now, as there was no other way of get- 
ting out of our awkward position. We were obliged 
to cross many narrow, slippery bridges, and literally 
travelled through people's dwellings. Long before 
we would reach a turn in the road, it would be black 
with human beings, who had heard the tooting of our 
horns and the blowing of our whistle; and only by 




A JAPANESE CROWD 



having our boy go ahead and plead with them to get 
out of the way, was it possible to pass through. 
These people had never seen a motor-car before, 
and many of them had never before seen a white 
lady. Their curiosity was nearly startling. The 
little Japanese boys took to following our car, and 
we could hear the wooden shoes clack-clacking on 
the stones. It took all our powers of persuasion 
to keep them from hanging on the car, as they 

252 



THE MIKADO'S PALACE 

thought it great sport to get a ride on this wonderful 
machine. 

In one place we met a Japanese peasant with his 
horse and narrow two-wheeled cart. On seeing us 
coming around the corner, he was so frightened that 
he dropped his ropes and left his horse and cart 
standing in the middle of the road, while he fled 
through the paddy fields like one possessed, up to 
his knees in mud. Getting out of the motor, I went 
ahead and talked to the horse and led him past the 
car, each giving the other as much room as possible. 
The enthusiasm of our newspaper man knew no 
bounds. The idea of a lady taking the horse of an 
old coolie and leading him about delighted him; 
and he called out in great disdain to the coolie, 
telling him what an idiot he was. I could only 
gather from the expression of his face what he was 
saying, but I knew without an interpreter. 

The Japanese language is pleasing to the ear 
and easily learned, and I felt grateful for the little 
I knew of it, as it enabled me to make friends wher- 
ever I went. 

It was almost one o'clock when we reached our 
hotel in Kobe on our return. Without ordering on 
our part, or any certainty of our return at this 
time of night, we were served with a nice steak, a 
pot of delicious tea, toast, and potatoes, that the 
proprietor had awaiting our arrival. We had 
demonstrated that we could at least get through to 
Osaka. 

253 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

Here in Japan we met with our third rain- 
storm, and again it poured in torrents. This was a 
bad outlook for our next trip, as it was necessary 
to go over the same route to reach Kioto, and the 
rain made it all the more dangerous on account of 
the slippery mud and the narrow turns, besides 
increasing the volume of water in the streams over 
which we had to pass. I felt considerable anxiety 
about the trip, as we were to lead the way, and the 
chauffeur of His Highness of Baroda was to follow 
us with his automobile, the chauffeur having arrived 
there with the car. He was to join His Highness 
and the rest of his party at Kioto. The question 
came up about the possibility of getting across 
Japan with my motor-car, as I wished to go to 
Kioto, Nagoya, Shidgonka, Atami, Odowara, and 
Yokohama, thence to Tokyo, and from there to old 
Nikko on the well-known old road. We decided 
that if we could get through to Osaka, as we had 
done the day previously, we could make this trip as 
well. We learned that from Osaka to Kioto was a 
fairly wide road, this having been used in the past 
for the parades of floats during the festivals. 

Mr. Brooks, Albert, and my new Japanese boy 
spent a day on the car, polishing the brass and oiling 
up for our trip. 

An amusing incident occurred when we invited 
the father of the hotel proprietor to accompany us 
on a short trip for sightseeing. He was an old 
man, and evidently desirous of being able to say he 

254 



THE MIKADO'S PALACE 

had had a ride in a motor-car ; but he remained with 
us for only about seven miles, when he suddenly 
decided he had a brother he wanted very much to 
see, so he got out, and we saw the poor old man 
paddling off by himself. He had had all the motor 
ride he cared for, as he imagined everybody we met 
was going to be ground under our wheels, and he 
became much excited, flourishing his stick at people 
and calling them all sorts of stupid things for not 
keeping out of the way. The paths were narrow, 
and it was almost impossible to avoid hitting any- 
thing we had to pass, our hubs sometimes rubbing 
the sides of the posts of the bridges over which we 
crossed. 

Another thing we had to make arrangements for 
was a supply of gasoline. There was only one 
motor-car in Kobe, and that a small one, but sev- 
eral factories used gasoline engines, so we were able 
to obtain the necessary supply. 

Kobe is rather an interesting place, but one 
should remain there two or three days if possible 
in order to obtain a clear idea of it. By taking a 
'rickshaw and climbing the mountains that sur- 
round Kobe, you will obtain the best possible views. 
Camellias bloom in January, the plum blossoms in 
April. The iris and the wistaria are then at their 
best, and this was the time we were in Japan. The 
people build trellises with lattice-work across the 
top, about a foot apart, and they keep the wistaria 
trained so that the blossom always hangs down- 

255 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

ward, making a beautiful sight when in bloom. 
When the blossoms are gone, the green leaves make 
a shady arbor to shield the residents of these little 
bungalows from the heat of the sun. The love of 
the Japanese for flowers is well known, and their 
patience in cultivation is a revelation to one who 
enters into that part of their lives. 

I had resisted the temptation to shop in many 
places we had visited, but in Kobe it was too much 
for me and I yielded, sending to my villa on Lake 
Como a hand-carved cabinet and writing-desk, 
made by one of their most famous wood-carvers; a 
bronze lantern guaranteed to be over three hun- 
dred years old, with an owl sitting on the top look- 
ing wise enough to be very ancient ; and a magnifi- 
cent hand-hammered bronze gong, which had been 
used in the temples, and with which I expect to 
summon my guests to luncheon and dinner. When 
struck, this gong vibrates for over a minute, with 
the sweetest tone I have ever heard. 

I have been notified that these articles have all 
arrived safely at my villa, and I look forward to 
the pleasure I still have in store for me in viewing 
and using these beautiful mementos of my trip to 
Japan. I purchased also a bronze figure of a Japa- 
nese girl — a wood-gatherer with her bundle of 
sticks on her back, and a long pole in her hand, just 
as she is going down the mountain. She has a 
magnificent figure, so far as can be judged. Her 

256 



THE MIKADO'S PALACE 

kimono covers what most artists generally leave 
exposed. 

This figure was intended for the Japanese exhi- 
bition in England, but the artist failed to have it 
finished in time, and he was heart-broken at the 
thought that he had possibly missed the one oppor- 
tunity to exhibit and sell it. He feared he would 
have a long wait for a purchaser ; but this purchaser 
he found in me, and the congratulations are mutual, 
I feeling happy in the possession of such a work of 
art, and he happy in having created it. 

At last the time had arrived when we must say 
good-by to Kobe. Our baggage was again packed 
on the car. Our Japanese boy, Frank, was beside 
himself with excitement and importance, this being 
a great day in his life. No other guides could boast 
of having taken such a trip as he had before him on 
the motor-car. One friend had loaned him a pair 
of leggings, thinking that the proper thing to make 
him look like a chauffeur ; another produced a cap, 
as he had found in the few short trips we had made 
that there was danger of losing his soft hat in the 
wind, and with his little bundle tied on to the run- 
ning board, he was ready for this great trip. 

The chauffeur of His Highness, with their 
thirty-horse-power Fiat, was also in a great state 
of excitement. Fearing he would get lost or be 
murdered, he took two men with him in the car, 
but we lost sight of these two men long before we 

17 257 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

reached Kioto. I imagine they decided that auto- 
mobiling was not all it was said to be. 

Noticing my little American flag flying from 
my car, the Japanese gave a Japanese flag and 
asked if I would not do them the honor of flying it 
also, which I was happy to do. We started about 
nine o'clock in the morning, through the crowded 
bazaar streets, every one waving at us as we passed, 
crowds of children, and even men and boys, running 
after the cars. When I inquired why they were so 
curious, Frank said, " Why, Madam, you are a 
great hero to our minds, and they are only show- 
ing their admiration for your enterprise." 

We felt that we were in for greater adventures 
than we had yet encountered on our trip. We took 
the same route we had experimented on a few days 
previously, and managed to get along very well 
until we came to a bad turn in the road, where soft 
mud made the turning almost impossible. Our car, 
with its heavy load, sank into the mud nearly up 
to the hubs. The car following in our rear had the 
advantage of not being heavily laden, and by 
taking the turn very slowly they escaped this 
calamity. 

We managed to get out of it at last, however, 
and on we went, over hills and through valleys; 
through the paddy fields, with miles and miles of 
little huts lining either side of the road ; over narrow 
slippery stone bridges, where it required great 
patience, a clear head, and a steady hand to guide 

258 



THE MIKADO'S PALACE 

the car in safety; up over canal banks, where it 
would seem an impossibility to drive; but we were 
told this was the way we would have to go. This 
was the way the pedestrians travelled, so of course 
there was no other way. On we went, hoping and 
praying we would meet nothing coming toward 
us, as one or the other vehicle would certainly have 
to turn back or meet with disaster. But luck was 
with us, and we finally reached the long bridge 
crossing the river to Osaka. Rolling through the 
bridge, we found the -newspaper men had already 
heard of our arrival, and snap, snap, went the 
kodaks as our two cars, an unusual sight in old 
Japan, rolled along the streets. The people waved 
hands and shouted a welcome to us. We passed 
directly through the city of Osaka, through a square 
where a few modern buildings have recently been 
erected, and, turning sharply to the left, found our- 
selves on a fairly good road to Kioto. 

We glided along what we thought was the right 
path, and suddenly found ourselves on what turned 
out to be the bed of a railroad. We had got off the 
right road, and no one seemed able to tell us which 
way to go; so we were obliged to reverse the car 
and go back. An old man was seated with his feet 
hanging over a derrick platform, and when we 
passed he drew his feet up out of the way. But 
he must have immediately resumed his former posi- 
tion, for when Mr. Brooks started to back the car, 
never thinking of danger, we heard a cry from the 

259 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

old man and found the fender had scratched one of 
his bare feet, causing it to bleed. I got out and ex- 
amined it, but found it was simply a scratch and 
that no harm had been done ; but he was very much 
frightened, and was either too old or too stupid to 
know that he had contributed to the accident by 
putting his feet in the way of the car. I gave him 
ten yen, and told one or two of the boys there to 
assist him to his home, and the way he got down 
from the platform and ambled off smiling and 
clasping his ten yen, showed that he was amply 
repaid for his fright. This little incident, however, 
made me feel as if I was likely to suffer for my 
temerity in going over a road untravelled b}^ auto- 
mobiles or any other vehicle. It was here that the 
two men who had accompanied His Highness's 
motor-car disappeared from our view. 

After inquiries, we found we were not far off 
the main road, and we soon rolled into Kioto, going 
to the Kioto Hotel, which we reached at five o'clock 
in the afternoon. Here we received the congratula- 
tions of everybody, and again met the party of His 
Highness, all of whom were glad to see us ; and we 
were plied with questions as to how we had found 
the road. As we had got through all right, we 
forgot all past difficulties, and enjoyed meeting our 
friends again. I began to feel that I was really a 
member of His Highness's party. 

The following day we left for Nara, to visit the 
temples, and here also we met with a cordial recep- 

260 



THE MIKADO'S PALACE 

tion. His Highness rode in my car, leading the 
way, with Mr. Brooks, Frank, Albert, and the Sec- 
retary of His Highness ; while I travelled with Her 
Highness and the Princess Indraraja in their car. 
The rest of the suite went by rail. We visited the 
Daibutsu Buddha, at Nara, which is fifty-three feet 
high, and also other temples. Here I again met 
the members of Mr. Atkins's party, and Mrs. Cum- 
mings was delighted to see us, and to be presented to 
Her Highness of Baroda. And she gave Billikins 
a little gold elephant to wear around his neck. 

We were received by the High Priest, who had 
a special dance performed for us by what he called 
the " Holy Girls," or what would be known here as 
nuns, who dance only for royalty. This dance was 
like a mythological play. It became monotonous 
after we had squatted for an hour in a circle around 
the dancers; but we were delighted with the mag- 
nificent embroideries on the kimonos worn by them. 
At night they lighted the sacred walk leading to 
the temple, which is about two and a half miles 
long, and we were informed that this was done only 
on feast days or on some grand occasion. We were 
also accorded the special privilege of going through 
the deer park, where we saw hundreds of the sacred 
deer, as gentle as kittens. These deer will come up 
and eat out of your hand, and one would never 
think they could be the same as the little, frightened 
creatures we had seen in the jungles and in the 
wilds. In Japan, there are no wilds, however, prac- 

263 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

tically the whole land being under cultivation. 
Everybody has to do something with his land in 
order to raise food, as there is so little land and so 
much water, and so many thousands of people to be 
fed. We travelled around here the following day, 
having police and detectives in attendance. We 
discovered that, knowing we were to take this trip, 
the authorities had sent out coolies the night before 
to prepare the roadways, build up places where 
they thought there might be danger, and see that 
everything was done to make us welcome. For all 
this attention, I take to myself no credit ; it was due 
to the fact that we were with His Highness of 
Baroda, who was looked upon as the King of India 
by these simple-minded people. 

The next day Her Highness and the Princess 
rode with me in my car, while His Highness, the 
Secretary, and the rest of the party rode back to 
Kioto in his car. After tea we went to a Japanese 
dinner and tried to eat with chop-sticks ; I say tried, 
as I fear I should have gone hungry if I had 
depended on them. I could manage to hold them, 
but somehow there was difficulty in reaching my 
mouth. These Japanese dinners are interesting, and 
some of the things they serve taste very well, even 
if they do not always look inviting; but I was there 
to see and learn and satisfy my curiosity, so I tried 
almost everything. Some things were palatable, 
but there were some that were not; for instance, I 
drew the line at eating raw fish! 

264 



THE MIKADO'S PALACE 

We had planned to visit the Mikado's Palace, 
and as the Fiat was out of commission after the two 
days' trip, I offered the use of my motor-car. We 
drove up to the palace gates, and, much to my 
surprise, were allowed to go inside. We were told 
this was the first time a vehicle had been permitted 
to enter the gates of the Mikado's palace. Wher- 
ever we went, the police were busy keeping the 
streets cleared, for the people would wait for hours 
if they found out in which direction we intended 
to go, that they might see us. 

The Mikado's Palace is an immense building 
and scrupulously clean. Some of the most exquis- 
ite lacquer work that I have ever seen is there. 
There are sliding doors between the rooms, and 
these were thrown open, and as we walked through 
in our stocking feet the guide would tell us in very 
good English that "this is the Gold Room; this 
is the Yellow Room; this is the Blue Room "; and 
so on, but none of them looked like living-rooms to 
our ej^es. 

There were no seats or chairs, except in one room 
where we were served with tea. There they man- 
aged to get together four chairs, which they placed 
around a small table, but the rest of the party had 
to sit on the floor. Here and there we would see a 
little alcove of beautiful wood, and were informed 
that this had been a sleeping place of the Mikado 
or of Her Highness. Some of the rooms are deco- 
rated with beautiful scrolls, the best work of that 

265 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

age ; and the peacock plays a prominent part in the 
decoration, that bird being held sacred here, as in 
India. We finally reached the Chrysanthemum 
Room, which was the most beautiful of all, and, to 
my way of thinking, the only one possible to be 
occupied in comfort. 

As we came to the end of these rooms, the doors 
were opened on to the most delightful little garden 
I have ever beheld. It looked like a Japanese hand- 
painted picture, and one felt as if one must go up 
and touch the petals of the azaleas, and put one's 
hands in the water, to see if it was real. 

There were miniature lakes, with small islands 
planted with tiny trees. We were told that one 
tree, standing about two feet high, and branching 
out about one and a half yards, was over a thousand 
years old. This seemed hard to realize, but perhaps 
it was true. I believe a few strangers, who have 
come there on the recommendation of their govern- 
ments, have been admitted to this palace, but special 
permission is required from the magistrate, and 
even then they have access to only a few of the 
rooms. So we considered ourselves very highly 
honored. 

We had a particularly pleasant time in Kioto, 
and upon leaving I found my hotel bill receipted, 
which surprised me as well as the rest of the party. 
Yet I had been entertained so royally for so many 
months, that I began to take everything for 
granted. 

266 



THE MIKADO'S PALACE 

On the 12th of May we started for Nagoya. 
This place is noted for its cloisonne and china manu- 
facturing, and an exhibition was being held there of 
Japanese manufactures. 

On the way to Nagoya we had an exciting ex- 
perience. When we were driving through the 
paddy fields, our heavily loaded car began to sink, 




H. H. THE MAHARAJA OF BARODA 



and we discovered that the road had separated. His 
Highness's party being with us at the time, we tied 
two ropes to the rear of our car and the front of 
their car, and they were able to back and pull us 
out after tedious work in jacking up the car. Our 
mid-day luncheon was taken on the way, Her High- 
ness making the sandwiches, and we had a very 
jolly picnic party. 

267 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

When we arrived at Nagoya we were met and 
escorted to the Nagoya Hotel by a number of 
mounted police. This hotel is one of the worst I 
have ever seen. No attention was paid to us, the 
place was inconceivably dirty, and the meals were 
almost impossible. Here Albert's tea-basket and 
our provisions came into play. 

We attended the theatre, where we had private 
boxes, and were treated in royal fashion, being 
permitted to enter and leave before any of the 
audience. For our benefit they had chairs in the 
box used by our party, though the rest of the people 
sat on the floor. There is a raised platform going 
down from what we would call the dress circle, and 
all around on this platform the people sit and listen 
to the play. 

We also visited the old palace here, the oldest 
in Japan. This is almost in ruins, and great care is 
taken to prevent fire, the wood being solid oak, 
black with age, and decidedly dry. Some of the 
people told us that we were having privileges that 
they never expected to possess. They would touch 
the floor of the old palace and kiss their fingers, as 
though it was sacred ground. This was not an 
unusual sight, and I thought I detected in the eyes 
of some of these people a desire to accompany our 
party and walk with us through these sacred rooms. 

When in this palace, the guide pointed out to us 
the overhanging room, and triumphantly told us 
how some few hundred years ago, when the enemies 

268 



THE MIKADO'S PALACE 

of Japan were about to capture this palace, and the 
Mikado's men were without weapons of any kind, 
they heated water to the boiling point and poured 
it in the eyes and faces of the enemy as they scaled 
the walls. He also said that they allowed the wild 
boars to come in and devour the bodies of their 
enemies who were killed. 

In INTagoya their Highnesses devoted many 
hours to shopping, buying considerable cloisonne 
and vases in lacquer ware. Although we had ex- 
pected to start the next day, they asked me to stop 
over as they wanted to do some more shopping. 

There is only the one hotel in Nagoya, and 
although I have given a bad report of it, any one 
going there will have to stop there. I presume 
that is why the proprietor is so independent. 

The thought often occurred to me in Japan, 
why do we Americans use so much and see so much 
Japanese bric-a-brac, while in Japan, where I vis- 
ited not only the palaces, but also some private 
homes, hardly a piece of bric-a-brac is to be seen? 

I remarked to one Japanese, " I think I know 
where all your bric-a-brac goes; it is in America." 
The little cups we sometimes use for cigar ashes are 
used for tea-cups in Japan, and they always have 
the kettle ready to make tea. It was an amusing 
sight in the tea-gardens to see the musicians stop 
in the pauses of the music and take a drink right 
out of the tea-pot, using no sugar or milk. In fact, 
I saw nothing but the condensed milk in Japan. 

269 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

We remained two days in Nagoya, and in the 
evening witnessed a Geisha dance. The second day 
of our visit, we went to the Exhibition. Here the 
wonderful ingenuity of these little people was to 
be seen; also their imitative faculty. We found 
nearly every machine or small article used in 
America is copied right here. The cash register, 
and many of our latest designs in other things, were 
copied so neatly that had we not known they were 
copies, we should have thought they came direct 
from America. One would have thought it was a 
small Exhibition in America, as it was all planned 
and carried out after the American fashion, except 
for the Japanese forms in kimonos that followed us 
everywhere we went. We seemed to be more curi- 
ous to the Japanese than anything they had on ex- 
hibition under glass cases. 

In Nagoya the streets are quite wide, which 
shows that they are on the right road to civilization. 
I was told that wherever a house is torn down or 
destroyed, the law requires that they build farther 
back from the street. 

On the third day, May 13th, we decided to start 
for Yokohama. His Highness had made arrange- 
ments to go with us, but as it was raining hard, and 
he feared his car would skid, he decided to ship his 
car and his party by train. They had no chains 
with them, as we had. We found them very useful. 




:he landing, fugi river 



XXI 

AN EXCITING TIME IN THE FUGI RAPIDS 

SAYING farewell to the rest of the party, and 
making a rendezvous for Tokio, we left our 
friends and started for Yokohama. I felt 
grateful many times afterward that they did not 
accompany us on this trip, as there might have 
been some serious accident, and I had all the re- 
sponsibility I wished with my own party. 

At first the road out of Nagoya was fairly good, 
as we were on the old Tokaido road, which we had 
struck several times on our trip from Kobe. It ran 
along well for a distance, and then suddenly dis- 
appeared. Why, I am at a loss to understand, but 
it was disappointing, as it is a good road, with beau- 
tiful trees on both sides. 

The Japanese follow the old custom of giving 
everybody of wealth or position the right of way, 

271 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

and all coolies or workingmen rushed to one side of 
the road to make room for us, sometimes almost 
upsetting their heavily loaded carts in order to be 
polite; but when we approached Yokohama we 
found there was a great difference in the manners 
of the people in this respect. 

Travelling along, we suddenly found ourselves 
running along narrow paths, around sharp curves, 
and over narrow bridges, where we were obliged to 
get out and with our hatchet chop pieces off the 
bamboo poles or posts to permit the hubs of the 
machine to pass without being jammed. Some of 
these bridges swayed back and forth with the weight 
of the car, and my heart was in my throat a good 
deal of the time, as I expected every minute to see 
the car dashed to the bottom of a fast-running 
stream or into a mud-hole. 

About noon the sun came out, and soon the 
roads were dry and no trace of rain could be seen. 
We found a nice shady place on the roadside where 
we had our lunch, of cold chicken and cold roast 
beef, with tea prepared in our thermos bottle. 

Again we travelled on, over high little narrow 
bridges, many of them long ones, where we were 
obliged to get out and take all the baggage off and 
hire coolies to carry it across on their backs after 
the car had gone ahead. One of these narrow 
bridges I shall never forget, the spans being any- 
where from fifty to seventy-five feet, with only 
poles standing on end, the planks laid on frames, 

272 



AN EXCITING TIME IN THE FUGI RAPIDS 

with anywhere from one to two inches of space 
between them. Mr. Brooks said afterward that he 
thought each moment that the car would surely go 
to the bottom. I doubt if any other car will ever 
go over some of these streams until the present 
bridges have been replaced with new ones. The 
bamboo itself seems to be strong, but when it has 
been standing there for many years the bridge 
begins to sag to one side, and one hardly feels like 
encouraging friends to repeat such an experiment. 
If I had been compelled to return over these same 
bridges or go by train, the train would have satis- 
fied me. I doubt if motoring will be popular on 
this road for at least ten years to come, as it will 
take millions of dollars to build substantial bridges 
over these many streams. At each bridge over 
which we had to pass, I silently thanked the rain- 
storm that had prevented His Highness and his 
party from accompanying us. 

Up over mountains we journeyed, and through 
narrow valleys where only two-wheeled carts drawn 
and pushed by coolies were met. On many occa- 
sions we had to back our car and thus lose a great 
deal of time to make room for these carts to pass. 
We finally reached Shidzwoka about eleven o'clock 
at night, after the weirdest ride I have ever experi- 
enced. My nerves had been on a tension during 
the whole time. At last we saw the Japanese lan- 
terns flashing, and heard cries, and Frank ex- 
claimed, "They are out looking for us!" Sure 

18 273 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

enough, there were many men and boys, headed by 
the police, looking for us, believing that we had 
been lost in the mountains. They escorted us with 
their picturesque but feeble lights, for we had our 
own acetylene lights burning on the car, which made 
futile their attempts to light us along the streets. 
In all cities of Japan, the streets are lighted at 
night with Japanese lanterns of the sort used by us 
for decorations. 

We went to the Daitokwan Hotel, where in a 
few moments we were served with fried eggs, rice 
cakes, fried potatoes, and a pot of hot tea. Before 
we retired for the night, a couple of officers in uni- 
form interviewed me, asking if there was anything 
they coidd do for me, and if I would like to have 
the hotel guarded while I was there. I said, " No; 
why? I am not a bit afraid;" and I expressed 
through my interpreter my thanks for their cour- 
tesy and thoughtfulness. They smiled when I told 
Frank to tell them I felt as safe there as I would 
at the Waldorf-Astoria in New York. There are 
times when the Japanese smile is hardly less than 
gorgeous. 

The next morning photographers, police, and 
representatives of the press were busy sending up 
pieces of pasteboard and asking for an interview. 
I then learned for the first time that it was reported 
that an American lady was racing her car with the 
King of India through Japan, and that the Amer- 
ican lady had won. They were all anxious to know 

274 



AN EXCITING TIME IN THE FUGI RAPIDS 

what had become of the Indian Prince. I informed 
them that this tale was not true; that we had 
started out simply a friendly party, but that His 
Highness had decided it would take too long on 
account of the rain making the roads too hard to 
travel, so he had put his car on the train for Tokio, 
while we decided to stick to the roads. Judging 
by the expression on their faces, and from what my 
guide told me, they thought this would be the end 
of my motor trip also, and that we would be obliged 
to take the train ; but I dared to remark that if any 
one else had ever been over the road, on foot or on 
horseback, I was going. At this they nodded their 
heads and sang out something which sounded like 
" Ohio." Afterward I decided that " ohio " was a 
significant word. 

We were here given the opportunity of visiting 
the public baths, and were amused to learn that the 
men and women bathe together indiscriminately. 
It is one of the people's amusements to visit these 
bathing places at night, the same as our people visit 
the skating rinks. I believe they do not now permit 
the Westerners to look upon this sight, as they are 
beginning to feel a little sensitive about it. 

I shall not forget the courtesy of one of the 
newspaper men here, when I told him I should like 
to see his home, and see how he lived. He told me 
that he was married, and said, " I fear Madam will 
find little to interest her, as we Japanese are poor ; 
but if Madam would like to see my home, I shall 

275 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

take pleasure in showing it to her." We started off 
on foot, and came to a little bamboo house, with an 
artistic roof, and, after removing our shoes, we 
stepped on a raised platform. We had to bow our 
heads to get inside the door, where I found what I 
would call a " Dolls' Playhouse.'" A sweet little 
Japanese woman, evidently not more than fourteen 
years old, greeted us with a queer little courtesy, 
made by running her hands down her body to her 
knees and then clasping them together. In one 
corner of the room an elderly woman and two half- 
grown girls were performing the same salaam, and 
I was told the first one was the wife, the others the 
mother and sisters, all living here together. The 
kitchen was fit only for a toy house. It had one 
little charcoal stove, where they could cook onty 
one thing at a time, and it did not seem that they 
could cook enough there to sustain life. As a mat- 
ter of fact, I saw very few, if any, stout Japanese 
people. The little wife showed me her closets, 
made of beautiful bamboo and lacquer, everything 
in its place and as neat as possible. Nearly always 
you will find in these humble homes some plant in 
flower, a geranium or flowering shrub arranged in 
an artistic manner. Everything is scrupulously 
clean. 

We sat down on the matting, the man of the 
house apologizing for not having a chair to offer, 
evidently thinking that I would consider it a sin to 
sit on the floor. Some tiny tea-cups were handed 

276 



AN EXCITING TIME IN THE FUGI RAPIDS 

around, and we had our drop of tea, for that is 
about all the cups hold. The petite wife chuckled 
and laughed, hiding her face now and then behind 
her husband's coat sleeve, as though one of the 
funniest sights she ever had seen was Mr. Brooks 
and I sitting on the floor. 

We spent the day visiting the fort, and driving 
around the interesting old town, and early the next 
morning we were ready to start for Yokohama. 

It seems that the small pass we had gone 
through on our way here was considered danger- 
ous, and they had not thought it possible for a 
motor-car to get through. Indeed, they had 
planned to send a rescue party to meet us. I am 
inclined to think this motor trip of mine gave these 
people a great deal of excitement, and kept them 
stirred up for days, as we proceeded to get into 
further trouble. 

The reader will understand that I made this 
trip in the face of cautions and warnings in the 
guide-books and other travellers' warnings never 
to travel at night, and that our lives would not be 
safe in the interior of Japan. 

I tried my best to get some information as to 
what lay before us, but all I could find out was that 
we would have to ferry the rapids at the Fugikawa 
River before we could reach Atami. We started 
at five o'clock in the morning. Now and then the 
sun shone and encouraged us a little. Here I used 
the maps which I had obtained in Osaka, and which 

277 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

I was under oath to return to the official who 
loaned them to me. After travelling about three 
hours, we reached the rapids. And what a road it 
was over which we travelled! Mud, washouts, 
sharp turns — a repetition of the day previous. We 
made only a few miles in many hours, but by noon 
we reached Fugikawa, where we again found 
police protection. 

Here we were to cross the rapids, and two 
sampans were lashed together, with planks laid 
across the boats to make a solid platform, on which 
the car was fastened. From the side of the bank 
Mr. Brooks ran the car down on the planks that 
had been previously placed from the bank to the 
boats. After having made fast the ropes, two row- 
boats started ahead to help pull, and to steady the 
boats as we crossed. To add to our discomfort, it 
was raining, and we were obliged to stand out with 
only a small umbrella to protect us, and that was of 
little use as it was blown about by the gusts of wind. 
But, though we did not know what lay before us, 
we were of course obliged to cross; and had no 
thought of returning. 

After the car was safely on board, we ranged up 
alongside it and began our trip across the river with 
hundreds of people on the bank watching us. When 
about midstream, the ropes that were attached to 
the boats pulling us parted with a snap like a pistol 
shot, and left us to the mercy of the rapids, except 
for the men who were trying to row us. Our boat 

278 



AN EXCITING TIME IN THE FUGI RAPIDS 

whirled around like a chip in a whirlpool, and for a 
few moments none of us could speak. We saw that 
we were drawing near the railroad bridge, and 
heard a cry of horror from the people on the bank. 

The car was swaying from side to side, and there 
was only a few inches of room to spare, but, fortu- 
nately, Mr. Brooks had taken the precaution to lash 
the front and rear wheels securely to the planks on 
which the car was standing. I looked into the faces 
of those about me, and saw only expressions of 
fright and anxiety. The coolies at the sides of the 
boat were laboring hard, and their bamboo poles 
were bent almost double as they tried to keep the 
boat off the rocks in the middle of the stream. The 
policemen in their boat were having all they could 
attend to, for it was turning in circles, and their 
coolies were rowing with all their might and main 
to get to a place of safety. 

Suddenly we felt a tremor, and our exhausted 
coolies gave a yell as they discovered that we had 
grounded safe and sound on a big flat rock. We 
had struck it with such force that the boat had been 
lifted right up on it. There we were anchored, 
about fifty feet from shore, and about five hundred 
feet below where we had intended to land. 

Had we gone two hundred feet more, we should 
have crashed into the buttresses of the railroad 
bridge, the only bridge that crosses the Fugi at this 
place. Mr. Brooks simply reached out and shook 

279 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

my hand in silent congratulation, although we were 
all drenched to the skin with the pouring rain. 

Motoring is all right on dry land, or where you 
can count on at least some kind of a bridge across 
the rivers and streams; but this was going a little 
too far! 

Coolies came out to the rock from the bank, and 
Frank told me that I would have to go ashore on 
the back of one of these men. With Billikins 
tightly clasped in my arms, I was carried ashore. 
Here again what appeared to be almost insur- 
mountable difficulties arose; for it was nothing but 
a rock river-bottom, and we should have to travel 
back at least half a mile over this to get near the 
road, where it was necessary again to ford a small 
arm of this stream and get up on the bank. Yet no 
thought of turning back entered my mind. I was 
determined to push onward and overcome what- 
ever difficulties might lie before me between here 
and Yokohama. 

I showed the crowd that had gathered around 
that I wanted them to pick out the largest boulders 
and roll them one side, so as to clear a road for the 
car to run over. Never was a road built with more 
agility and more willing hands. I could speak only 
a few words of their language, and Frank had 
stayed with the car to help Mr. Brooks ; but I could 
point and show what I wanted done, and they 
seemed to understand, and went at it with a will. 
While directing this work, I glanced around and 

2S0 



AN EXCITING TIME IN THE FUGI RAPIDS 

saw a line of men, about a quarter of a mile long, 
carrying planks and bamboo sticks. They ap- 
peared to realize at once what would be necessary to 
get the car off the sampans. Going ahead, I traced 
out a road that I thought the car could make, and 
by the time they got the car off the boat, I had my 
road built. But then came the worst part of the 
business, for the side next the bank was covered 
with slippery boulders, and my car might skid and 
turn turtle. I did not let this frighten me, how- 
ever, but began building up, on the lower side of 
the rocky bank, a sort of wall about two feet high, 
taking the largest boulders to help make the wall, 
and selecting the spot where there would be the 
least slant. 

After four hours of tedious driving in a pouring 
rain, stopping every few feet to take a boulder out 
of the way, and carefully guiding the car, Mr. 
Brooks finally brought it in safety to the other side 
of the bank, and then for the first time I sank down 
almost exhausted. The people shouted with delight 
that we had succeeded in crossing and had arrived 
so far, at least, in safety. 

We found the shelter of a small hut, and re- 
freshed ourselves with tea from our thermos bottle 
and some sandwiches. To our delight, we found 
that the two policemen were to accompany us, as we 
had to travel through some muddy places, where the 
road was under water part of the way. Not know- 
ing just where the road was, and not being accus- 

281 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

tomed to it, they went ahead in a little flat boat, 
with coolies pulling them, and we followed with the 
car, not knowing 1 what minute we might sink till 
the mud was clear over the car. But they led us so 
carefully that we landed in safety in a flat paddy 
field, just at dusk. The people stared at us as if we 
had arisen from the interior of the earth — which 
we had. 

My boy Frank pointed ahead to the Fugi Moun- 
tain, which rises in magnificent beauty, capped with 
snow. He told me that we would have to make the 
Hakone Pass this side of the Fugi Mountain before 
we could camp for the night. 

On Tuesday, May 17th, we started to go 
through the Hakone Range Pass. Every now and 
then the clouds would seem to open and let down 
rain by the bucketful, which made the going very 
slippery, and we were obliged to put on our two 
rear Victor chains. We made hardly more than six 
or eight miles an hour. The excitement, and the 
views we obtained once in a while, as the sun occa- 
sionally appeared, kept us all on a nervous strain, 
as we realized that each moment we were plunging 
into unknown dangers, with no way of knowing 
what the end would be. I have made " Never turn 
back " a motto of my life, and although at times it 
seemed impossible to travel over these roads, we 
still kept on, occasionally referring to the maps, 
and trying to reckon the distance between us and 
civilization. 

282 



AN EXCITING TIME IN THE FUGI RAPIDS 

Here in this range we found about a mile of 
good road, and then we suddenly emerged on noth- 
ing but a path. The reason for this difference was 
explained to me in this way : that wherever the gov- 
ernment fixed the roads, it was done well and thor- 
oughly ; but where the farmers or owners of the land 
made the road, it was done in the cheapest and 
easiest way possible. In some places it was simply 
like steps dug out of the side of the mountain, with 
little rises to the ground, something like waterways, 
and we had to travel over and up, over and up, until 
we found ourselves on a square corner that required 
the most careful and patient driving to get around 
without plunging the car over the side of the 
precipice. 




XXII 

CAMPING CLOSE TO DEATH 

THE road grew more difficult every moment, 
until at last, just as night was approaching, 
we discovered we had reached a narrow foot- 
bridge over a precipice from two to three hundred 
feet deep, with immense mountains rising on both 
sides, and not a vestige of vegetation in sight — 
nothing but black, gigantic rocks. Mr. Brooks was 
nearly exhausted with the strain of this drive as I 
called out to him to stop. At the same moment he 
noticed what I had seen, that the bridge was only 
about half wide enough to permit the car to pass. 
We got out and looked over the sides of the moun- 
tain, and shuddered as we thought what might have 
been our fate had the car gone a couple of feet 
farther. 

284 



CAMPING CLOSE TO DEATH 

I recalled having seen a few huts huddled 
together on the side of the mountain three miles 
back, and I sent Frank back to get help of some 
kind, and, if possible, to telegraph or telephone on 
ahead to Atami for assistance. He was also told 
to bring up some brush for firewood. 

We unpacked our tent, and prepared to camp 
for the night. In spite of careful searching for a 
better place, we found that we would have to erect 
the tent right over a small mountain stream, with 
the water running through the tent, for the pass 
was so narrow, there was no other place. However, 
there was room enough for a cot, and to keep our 
baggage dry. We left the car standing where it 
was on the brink of this awful precipice, while we 
rejoiced at the thought of what we had escaped, not 
fully realizing the dangers of our present position. 

When we started to prepare something to eat, 
we found we had no bread and no baking powder; 
but I had brought a bottle of fruit salts with me, 
and decided there must be some " rising " proper- 
ties in them, and that we would try it on the bread. 
Having lighted our alcohol stove, I took a quart of 
flour, a can of condensed cream, and two teaspoon- 
fuls of the fruit salts, and mixed them in a pan. 
This mixture I dipped out with a spoon on a hot 
plate, letting it brown on one side and then turning 
it over. To our delight, it raised up into the best 
biscuit I ever tasted, not unlike muffins, and we 
ate them to the last crumb. I also gave each of my 

285 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

party a good dose of quinine, and we took some 
stimulants. 

Just as we were finishing our meal, Honkie 
began to bark furiously, announcing strangers, and 
Frank arrived on the scene, bringing with him ten 
or twelve coolies, a bag of charcoal, bundles of 
brush for the fire, and some fresh eggs. 

Six of the men carried planks and bamboo 
poles. Frank announced in great excitement that 
they were looking for us at the foot of the pass, and 
that the next morning, or possibly that night, a 
gang of engineers were to leave Atami, and we 
would meet them somewhere on the pass. The road 
was very bad on the other side of the bridge, and 
they doubted if we could get through. In fact, 
they were surprised at our having got this far. The 
moment I heard that engineers were coming to 
meet us, I said, " You will see whether we get 
through or not. We will do it if we have to build 
a road all around the mountain." And this was 
really about what happened. 

I insisted that Mr. Brooks should take the most 
comfortable bed for the night, while Maria and I 
sat in the car and took turns keeping charcoal and 
wood on the fire. The coolies disappeared among 
the rocks, covered with their woven bamboo cover- 
ings that make them look like huge porcupines, 
but which apparently shed the rain perfectly. Bil- 
likins made a terrible row whenever these men came 
in sight, proving himself almost as good a watch- 

286 



CAMPING CLOSE TO DEATH 

dog as Honkie. The Japanese particularly dislike 
being out in the rain and getting wet, and I was 
informed that one reason was that their houses are 
so small, and they have no way of drying their 
clothes, so they make the whole house damp and 
expose their wives and children to colds and fevers, 
which are only too prevalent here, any way. 

I shall never forget my first glimpse of sunrise 
the next morning, or rather the reflection I got of 
it, for we were so far up in the mountains, and the 
different peaks towered around us and above us so, 
that we could catch only a reflection of the sun's 
rays, but even that was a magnificent sight. We 
gazed over the precipice by daylight; and tried to 
figure out how we could build a bridge that would 
carry the car over. I suggested to Mr. Brooks that 
he and Frank walk over the bridge and go ahead 
for a little way, so as to find out what we should 
have before us after we got over the bridge. I 
wanted to know if the roads were really going to 
be worse, or if we might possibly find them a little 
better on the other side. 

After they left us, I rather regretted having 
sent them, leaving us alone among these wild-look- 
ing men of the mountains. Albert kept pretty close 
to his rifle while he worked, arranging things after 
our morning meal; but outside of a few curious 
looks and motions, we were left entirely to our- 
selves. 

After a couple of hours' tramping, Mr. Brooks 

287 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

and Frank returned, and said the road was not 
much better, but they thought we would get 
through. It would certainly be better than turning 
back. The main thing was to get across this chasm. 
The Japanese went to work with a will building 
another bridge. We were told that the one for- 
merly there had burned down, and they had thrown 
up this temporary foot bridge, never dreaming that 
any one would attempt to go over it with a motor- 
car or even with a horse. 

It was nearly noon before the bridge was ready 
for us to cross. We took our baggage off to make 
the car as light as possible, and while we offered up 
a prayer for Mr. Brooks's safety, he started to 
drive across, having less than three inches to spare 
on each side. But he made sure that the car was 
straight in getting up on the bridge, and by moving 
very cautiously he landed the car on the other side. 
We were much relieved. 

The coolies insisted that it would not be wise to 
put our baggage on the car again, and as they had 
brought with them a small cart and some bamboo 
poles, we permitted them to take our baggage on 
the cart and follow our car, I agreeing to pay them 
twenty yen when we reached the foot of the pass. 
What these poor fellows had to eat, or how they 
lived, was a mystery to me, for they are very shy 
about their eating, and never like any one to look at 
them. They have the same delicacy about watch- 
ing others, and while we were eating they would 

288 



CAMPING CLOSE TO DEATH 

turn their backs and smoke their little pipes, which 
would only last for about a minute. 

I will not weary the reader by telling how many 
times we were obliged to tie ropes on the rear of 
the car going around corners, while the men would 
all hold on with all their strength to keep the car 
from rolling down the side of the mountain. 

In other places, they would tear out a corner of 
the mountain-side with pickaxes, taking rocks and 
building up a space on the outside of the turn, and 
covering it with dirt, so that the car could get 
around the corner. To make the road wider, so 
that the car could pass, they would fill up with dirt 
and stones a stone gutter that had been built to 
carry off the surplus rain-water. I fear it took 
several days after we passed to put the road back 
into its normal condition. 

As we reached the top of the Hakone Range 
Pass, we saw in the distance what looked like a 
black speck moving along, and Frank said it was 
the engineers coming to help us. They arrived just 
in time, for we found directly in our path a boulder 
fully five feet high and eight feet wide, obstructing 
our road like an elephant. Indeed, an elephant 
would not have been so much in our way, for we 
could have made him move. It seemed an impos- 
sibility to surmount this obstacle, and I threw up 
my hands in despair, and thought, " Oh, why did I 
ever undertake this trip!" A few moments later 
a card was presented to me, and I received the con- 

19 289 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

gratulations of an engineer and a police officer, 
who explained to me, through Frank, that they had 
feared we had all gone down the mountain-side, and 
that the people were much excited. My boy trans- 
lated to me that they had called me the " Female 
Napoleon," and that the newspaper men were 
awaiting our arrival in Atami, and could hardly 
believe that we were really alive. 

I pointed to the boulder across our path, and 
made signs with my hands and eyes. They told 
Frank that we must back the car a little, which we 
did; then those little coolies attacked that immense 
stone under the direction of these officers, pushing 
it an inch at a time and moving it little by little, 
until they finally got it to the very brink of the 
precipice. One more push, and it went crashing 
over and down the side of the mountain, making a 
noise like thunder. I afterward wondered if any 
little huts built on the side of that mountain were 
carried down by this rock, and if I would have to 
be responsible for several lives. We stood watch- 
ing the boulder taking trees and rocks down with it, 
as it gained in momentum every moment of its 
descent. 

Again the ropes were attached to the rear of 
the car, and the men held on to them to keep from 
going too fast as we descended the mountain. Some 
of the grades were almost straight up and down; 
and if the brakes had given way, we should have 
plunged hopelessly down to death. 

290 




HONKIE TO THE FORE 



XXIII 
HOSPITALITY OF THE PRINCESS ITO 

A T last, about six o'clock in the evening, we came 
A\ to a viewpoint that passes all description. 
The blue sea smiled at us in the distance, 
and I saw an immense fountain of water spring 
suddenly up into the air, which, I was told, was a 
spring of hot water that came forth every day be- 
tween five and six o'clock, shooting up seventy or 
eighty feet. It keeps this up for half an hour. This 
occurred just in time to greet us as we reached this 
haven of rest, weary and worn, our shoes nearly off 
our feet, but we were relieved that we were safe, 
and that a night's rest was near. 

When we reached the Heguchi Hotel, Atami, 
the only way we could get into the yard was by 
backing the car down the side of the mountain, as 
there was not enough level ground even here for the 
car to stand on. We were told that ours was the 

291 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

only four-wheeled vehicle that ever had entered 
Atami over this pass. Nothing but 'rickshaws and 
two-wheeled carts ever had gone through before. 

We were served with a refreshing meal, and 
they offered the interesting information that we 
could have a natural hot sulphur bath. We availed 
ourselves of this, and had a comfortable night's 
sleep. The next morning we found our clothing 
still too damp to wear; so I put on a kimono, and 
in a comfortable chair sat on the piazza with Billi- 
kins and Honkie and rested and wrote letters while 
my clothes were drying. We were all completely 
worn out, and very much needed a rest. Frank 
disappeared for the day, Albert had strained his 
knee in helping pull the car, and Mr. Brooks had 
blistered his foot in putting in and out the clutch. 
I looked back upon the past two or three days as 
though I had been suffering a nightmare! 

From Atami I immediately sent telegrams to 
His Highness at Tokio, informing them of our safe 
arrival, as I feared they might feel anxious about 
us. We had expected to make this trip in a couple 
of days, and we might have done so as far as the 
distance was concerned, had it not been for the 
awful rivers we had to ferry across, and this pass. 

I was here introduced for the first time to one 
of the good works accomplished by the Japanese. 
In going through the streets of the cities, I had 
often noticed men in white muslin skirts, playing 
plaintive little airs on a flute. When we sounded 

292 



HOSPITALITY OF THE PRINCESS ITO 

our horn as a warning of our approach, they would 
become excited and act as if they had lost their heads 
and did not know where to find them. I asked 
Frank why they acted in this way, and he gravely 
replied that they were blind, and that whenever I 
heard the sound of that little flute I would know 
that it was a blind man announcing the fact in this 
way, and also that he was a masseur. All one had 
to do was to call him if one needed his services. 
This is a fad of the Japanese; they believe in the 
efficacy of massage, seeming to think that every ill 
under the sun can be rubbed away. I was told that 
for hundreds of years they have maintained schools 
where the blind are taught this massage. I sent for 
one of the blind women and had her massage me, 
and I must say that I never enjoyed anything so 
much in my life. She seemed to know every muscle 
and nerve in my body, from my toes to the crown 
of my head. She had a plaintive, solemn little face, 
never uttering a word, but working over me until 
the perspiration streamed from her face. Presently 
I fell into a most refreshing slumber. I only felt 
sorry that I could not stay at this delightful resort 
for a month and rest in this way. 

When I awakened in the morning of the follow- 
ing day, the odor of orange and lemon blossoms 
came through the window. I had been told never to 
leave my windows unlocked in Japan, as we were 
likely to be robbed, but I generally left my windows 

293 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

open, of course having some one in the room with 
me, and I never lost any valuables. 

Looking out, I could see the blue sea dancing 
in the sunlight, and hear the sound of happy chil- 
dren's voices singing in the streets. It was wonder- 
fully peaceful and refreshing after the strain and 
excitement through which we had passed. 

Atami is known as " The Riviera of Japan," 
and is far more beautiful than anything I have ever 
seen on the French coast. Now and then a little 
ferry-boat would dart into sight, crossing from one 
point to another, and, upon raising one's eyes and 
looking out to sea, one would almost always see a 
small boat sailing along, making for some port 
along this attractive little coast, so beautiful, peace- 
ful, and quiet. 

I inquired as to the class of people visiting this 
place, and learned that a few English people had 
discovered it and come here for the baths and 
rest cure. The hotel was comfortable, and the beds 
fairly good; but of course, as in other places, one 
must furnish one's own bedding. The meals fur- 
nished were palatable, and the happy little Japa- 
nese girls waited on you as if the one thing for 
which they lived was to smile and run around in 
their little wooden shoes, doing whatever you 
desired. 

Billikins gave no end of entertainment and 
amusement to the crowds who came to see him. The 
Japanese are especially fond of animals, and Honk- 

294 



HOSPITALITY OF THE PRINCESS ITO 

Honk had a good time here, being permitted to tear 
around and go wherever he pleased. 

It was with real regret that on May 20th we said 
farewell to Atami and again started on the way to 
Yokohama. We received word from the President 
of the narrow gauge railway that runs from Yoko- 
hama to Atami that if we would start exactly at 
nine o'clock, they would hold their car back, giving 
us the lead, as we should be obliged to travel a good 
many times on their track. This railroad has been 
built exactly on the main road, in fact, the only 
road leading from Atami to Yokohama, so it was 
the only way we had of reaching there. 

As on previous days, we often found a stretch of 
pretty fair road, and then came to something nar- 
row and poor. As they were rebuilding the road, 
and had laid new tracks, it made it poor and very 
dangerous in many places, and we had to run on 
the railroad track. Many times we were obliged to 
get out and widen the road, but we had learned 
wisdom, and carried pickaxes with us, as we found 
they were of more use to us than shovels in this 
country. While we made only a few miles, it took 
considerable time. 

About one o'clock, we were rolling along a com- 
paratively wide road, when, suddenly, " bang " 
went one of our tires. Frank, our Japanese boy, 
was almost paralyzed with fear, as this was the first 
time this had happened since he had been with us, 
and he called out in agonized tones, " Shot! Shot! 

295 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

Prince Ito! " I got him by the collar and fairly 
shook him, when he explained to me that we were 
right in front of Prince Ito's house, and that he 
had been shot, and he thought somebody had fired 
at us. I explained to him that one of the tires had 
burst, and told him to get off the seat and take off 
his coat and he would find out how much damage 
had been done. He could hardly believe that one 
of our own tires had made this awful explosion. As 
you cannot stop anywhere in Japan without a 
crowd gathering around, we were soon sur- 
rounded. 

Frank told me that one of the men who talked 
to him was the head gardener of Prince Ito's house. 
Not wishing to waste any time, we began in a busi- 
ness-like way to prepare to eat our lunch while the 
tire was being adjusted. The gardener said that it 
would be much pleasanter if we would come inside, 
and that the Princess Ito would be delighted if we 
would accept her hospitality. We accepted the 
invitation, and rolled through the opened gates into 
a magnificent courtyard. Here again we began to 
make preparations to eat our picnic lunch in the 
car, when we were told it would be much more com- 
fortable on the piazza, so, although we did not quite 
understand this hospitality, we permitted the two 
men to carry our tea-basket, while we walked on 
ahead and arrived at the Princess Ito's country 
house. 

Here we found an open piazza overlooking the 

296 



HOSPITALITY OF THE PRINCESS ITO 

sea, and on it was a small table, set with a beautiful 
cut-glass dish of immense strawberries, dainty little 
sandwiches, sweets, and tea. Three little Japanese 
men busily provided us with everything necessary 
for our luncheon. There was a most fascinating 
little flower garden spread out at our feet, and the 
little Japanese house was marvellously attractive. 
Although it seemed small to us compared to some 
of the palatial residences in our country, it covered 
a good deal of ground, and everything was kept 
scrupulously neat and clean. Here we were left 
with our own party to lunch at leisure. 

We congratulated ourselves on our good luck. 
We were told that very few people ever received 
this hospitality, but that the Princess Ito had heard 
of me and of my trip, and was interested, so she 
had sent down and invited us into the gardens. 
After finishing our lunch, we were invited to go 
through the gardens and the home of the Princess. 
Upon entering the house, the first thing that struck 
my eye was a photograph of William Jennings 
Bryan, with his signature, doubtless presented to 
Prince Ito while on a visit to Japan. 

We strolled through the beautiful gardens, and 
I was surprised to find here the old-fashioned pinks 
I knew so well in my grandmother's garden. Per- 
fect hedges of them bordered the walks, with old- 
fashioned snow-balls and the iris, while the bees 
were humming around us, and the birds twittering 
in the trees, making it a veritable bit of paradise. 

297 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

We were escorted into a little wooden pagoda, 
where we saw four photographs done in India ink, 
one of Prince Ito and the other three of Japanese 
who had paid their lives for daring to open up 
Japan to the Western world, but who are now 
looked upon as saints and martyrs. 

In a small box, shaped something like our cas- 
kets, reposed the mirror Prince Ito had always used. 
These people have a great superstition about the 
mirror, never permitting any one to look into it 
after its owner has departed, and usually burying it 
with its owner. This mirror was carefully put into 
this casket, and on each side of it stood a huge 
bunch of old-fashioned flowers, the favorite flowers 
of Prince Ito. They place fresh flowers there each 
day. 

When we were preparing to leave, I thought a 
tip would be appreciated by the gardener, and con- 
sulted Frank about it. After a little hesitation, he 
consented; so I offered it, but the gardener put his 
hands behind him, shook his head, and, bowing very 
low, said, " Madam, this is Prince Ito's house, and 
no one in Prince Ito's service can accept a tip." As 
1 did not wish to leave without his having some 
little souvenir of our visit, I found a couple of post- 
cards with photographs of my villa on Lake Como, 
and of my car, which he appeared delighted to 
receive. He insisted on my inscribing my name on 
them, and also brought out a large book in which 
we were asked to write our names as guests of the 

298 



HOSPITALITY OF THE PRINCESS ITO 

Princess Ito. After cordial farewells, we parted. 
Upon entering my car, I found lying on my seat a 
huge bunch of old-fashioned roses from the garden 
of Prince Ito, to cheer me on my way. 

While we were rolling along, congratulating 
ourselves on the good things that were happening to 
us, we suddenly came to the end of this beautiful 
wide road, and struck into a narrow one. We were 
making about ten miles an hour, when I saw a little 
child peep out from the side of a building and start 
to run forward and then back. Just as we were 
passing, the child ran right in front of the car, and, 
catching its little wooden shoes on a stone, tripped 
and fell. How Mr. Brooks ever did it, I do not 
know; but he turned the car into a fence so quickly 
that it saved the life of the child. I expected to 
see the little one crushed under our wheels, but 
Frank jumped off and picked it up from the oppo- 
site side. The body of the car had evidently passed 
directly over it, but the wheels had not touched the 
child. There was just a little bump on its forehead, 
where it had probably struck a stone in falling. I 
took the child in my arms to see if any bones were 
broken, and, upon realizing it was in the arms of a 
stranger, it let out a yell that convinced me no great 
harm had been done. When a woman came out 
and took the child, I told her to take it to the well 
and wash the dust off its face so that we could 
examine it better. Several people had seen the 
child run in front of the car, and expected to see it 

299 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

killed. How the car was stopped and the life of 
the child saved was always a mystery to me, but it 
was done at the risk of the lives of the whole party, 
for we had knocked down the fence and the nose 
of the car was buried deep in it. Had the fence 
been anything but bamboo, we should all have been 
crushed to death. 

I had heard about motorists being mobbed, so 
as the crowd approached, I told Frank to explain 
how the accident had occurred. We got back into 
the car and moved on, leaving the man to whom 
the fence belonged extremely angry. 

We finally rolled into Yokohama, and stopped 
at the Oriental Palace Hotel, where rooms had been 
engaged for us. Here we were beset with news- 
paper men and photographers from all sides. The 
next day a policeman called in regard to the child, 
and I told him the whole story, and that ended it. 

The following day we arranged to start for 
Tokio. Wishing to show one of the newspaper men 
how difficult it was to drive through the narrow, 
crowded streets, one of them agreed to sit on the 
box and go with us, and I sent Frank ahead by 
train to Tokio to arrange for our coming. 

At Tokio we were received by Her Highness 
and His Highness of Baroda, who were delighted 
to see us. His Highness regretted that he had not 
been with us, saying he would have enjoyed just 
such adventures that we had passed through. We 
rested here one or two days, and Her Highness 

300 



HOSPITALITY OF THE PRINCESS ITO 

invited me to accompany her to Yokohama in a 
special car provided by the Mikado, to do some 
shopping and sight-seeing, which invitation I ac- 
cepted. While I was lunching with her in Yoko- 




WITH A LITERARY MAN OF J .A PAN 

hama, word was received that I was to go to the 
police station in regard to something that had 
occurred on the road from Prince Ito's house to 
Yokohama. I found there the man whose fence 

301 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

we had run into and broken down, and he insisted 
on a payment of sixty yen, which I gave him, where- 
upon we all shook hands. 

The Mikado, having heard of my trip, sent one 
of his engineers to look at my car, and also to offer 
me the courtesy of Tokio, and I am indebted to the 
Mikado for many drives and visits during my stay. 
Here we spent a very pleasant time. The news- 
paper men were hospitable, inviting us to the the- 
atres, and always sending with us some one who 
could speak English and thus interpret the play 
to us. 

One night we visited some of the sights of Tokio, 
one of them being where the " painted dolls " are 
on exhibition behind the bars, and where the Japa- 
nese buy their wives when they want an especially 
pretty one. It reminded me of the side-show of a 
circus, more than anything I had seen, as the owners 
of these girls sit outside in a little booth like our 
" barkers," telling of their attractions. You can 
buy your wife by number, photograph, or really see 
her; each one has her price. The little women sit 
there apparently perfectly indifferent to every one, 
putting on their paint and powder and making their 
toilet as if in their private dressing-room, and not 
paying the slightest attention to the passer-by. 
This market has been in existence for thousands of 
years, and we wonder if the light of the Western 
world will in time change all this. It is a sad sight. 

Speaking of the Japanese women, the girls are 

302 



HOSPITALITY OF THE PRINCESS ITO 

generally modest, gentle, and pleasing-looking, but 
I saw nothing like even passable good looks. Their 
noses are flat, the lips thick, the eyes of that slant- 
ing Mongolian type. The common custom of 
shaving the eyebrows and blackening the teeth of 
the married women (although this is less common 
in Tokio than formerly ) , together with an obvious 
lack of soul, gives nearly all the faces an inane, 
vacant expression. 

The narrow, scanty dress enables one to judge 
of their physique, and they look badly nourished, 
as if the race was wearing out. Their shoulders are 
round, their chests hollow, and their hips narrow. 
Their hands and feet are very small, and their 
stature generally about four feet eight inches, to 
five feet one inch. They look as if the girls passed 
from girlhood to middle age almost at once when 
wedded. 

We had a pleasant call on Mr. O'Brien, the 
American Ambassador in Tokio, and his wife. He 
remarked, " Why, you seem to be the talk of 
Tokio!" 

At the American Ambassador's I met an inter- 
esting Japanese lady who was at the head of the 
Girls' School in Tokio. She was -anxious to have 
me make an address to che girls at the school, but 
lack of time obliged me to decline. 

When in Tokio, as well as all along the roads, 
we saw any number of imitations of the American 
baby coach. It is a mystery where all the children 

303 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

come from in Japan. The streets and bungalows 
are literally crowded with them, while one rarely 
sees an old woman. 

We now and then saw a motor-car in Tokio, 
but there were only a few there. We saw three or 
four in Yokohama also, and here for the first time 
in Japan my car was under shelter, as they have a 
small garage there. In going from Yokohama to 
Tokio we received the first impertinent looks from 
people on the streets, none of them seeming any too 
friendly toward the motor-car. 

On May 27th we were dined as the Mikado's 
guests, and he presented strawberries from the 
Imperial Gardens. The next day we were to start 
for old Nikko. We were told that we should again 
have some ferrying to do, but that was about all 
the information I could obtain as to what was in 
store for us. 




THE CRATED CAR AT YOKOHAMA 

XXIV 

YOKOHAMA TO HONOLULU 

N r IKKO is a little over a hundred miles from 
Tokio. We left the latter city at about 
nine o'clock in the morning, and reached 
Nikko at 3 :30 in the afternoon, travelling most of 
the way over the most beautiful road I have ever 
seen. Unfortunately, the Japanese have permitted 
telegraph poles to be erected close together, which 
makes it sometimes almost impossible to pass. Two 
motor-cars could not pass in some places. For 
fifty miles we travelled over that beautiful avenue 
of Red Cedars (Cryptomeria Road), a distance 
which seems all too short in a motor-car, though 
doubtless it would seem an endless way to pedes- 
trians, or to people in 'rickshaws or on ponies. The 
tops of the trees meet overhead, forming a com- 

20 305 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

plete canopy, with occasional glimpses of blue sky. 
The views one gets at intervals make the drive well 
worth while. This is called the " Cryptomeria 
Road." 

Arriving at Nikko, we astonished the natives by 
climbing a steep hill, on the top of which our stop- 
ping place, the Kanaya Hotel, is situated. We 
visited the temples, going over the Sacred Bridge. 
After a couple of days here, we returned to Yoko- 
hama, where we began to make preparations for 
our homeward voyage. 

I have spoken elsewhere of the love of the Japa- 
nese for flowers. In Japan the badges of the most 
celebrated houses or families are floral. The Im- 
perial or public badge of the Mikado is an open 
Chrysanthemum with sixteen petals; his private 
badge represents the blossoms and leaves of the 
Paulowaia Imperalis. The celebrated badge of the 
Shoguns of the Tokugawa dynasty is three leaves 
of a species of Mallow, united at their tops. No 
matter how simple the table arrangements in Japan, 
there was always a small spray of flowers, or some- 
times only one flower arranged in a beautiful vase, 
giving an artistic air to the whole room, however 
plainly furnished it might be in other respects. 

The Japanese are energetic little folk, desirous 
of education, and they have good schools in Tokio. 
They always greeted us with a pleasant smile, and 
would respond pleasantly to our greeting when we 

306 



YOKOHAMA TO HONOLULU 

called out, "Ohio" ("Good-morning") or "Ari- 
goto" ("Thank you"). 

The Japanese have great faith in the Shinto 
religion, Nature worship, and Ancestor worship, 
and they have quantities of gods and goddesses. 
They have gods for wind, the ocean, fire, food, 
pestilence, mountains, rivers, and for certain special 
mountains and rivers, certain trees, temples, etc. 
Chief of these is Ama-Terasu, the radiant goddess 
of the sun, born from the left eye of Izamage, the 
Guardian of Japan. From his right eye was pro- 
duced the God of the Moon ; from his nose the vio- 
lent god, Susa Moo, who subjected his sister to 
various indignities, and was chastised accordingly. 

The sun goddess was the ancestress of the 
heaven-descended Mikados, who have reigned in 
unbroken succession from the beginning of the 
world, and they are accordingly looked upon as 
gods upon the earth. To the fact that the Mikado 
was interested in my motor trip, we believe, was 
due the protection we received from his people. I 
am pleased to tell of this experience, as most of the 
guide-books will tell you quite the contrary in 
regard to the interior of Japan and the treatment 
you will receive there. 

With moral teaching, Shintoism does not pro- 
fess to concern itself. " Follow your natural 
impulses, and obey the Mikado's decrees " — such is 
the sum of its theory of human duty. Preaching 
forms no part of its instruction, nor are the rewards 

307 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

and punishments of a future life used as an incen- 
tive to right conduct. The continued existence of 
the dead is believed in, but whether in a condition of 
joy or pain is nowhere declared. 

At Yokohama we crated our car and shipped it 
through to San Francisco on the same steamer on 
which we were to sail, the Pacific Mail Steamship 
Siberia, and, with the Gaekwar of Baroda and his 
suite, we sailed June 1st. 

When we left Yokohama, the newspaper men 
gathered at the pier to take farewell photographs 
of our party, and I was presented with a little Japa- 
nese " Cheen " dog. I named him " Jappy " on 
the spot, and, with Honk-Honk and Billikins, my 
family of pets was complete. On board the steamer 
1 found many bouquets sent by friends as a fare- 
well token from Japan. On one card the donors 
" thanked Mrs. Clark Fisher for opening up Japan 
to the motoring world." This was the largest 
bouquet of flowers I have ever seen, and w T as 
arranged most beautifully. 

Sailing toward Honolulu, on June 8th we cele- 
brated " Antipodes Day," as we have two days of 
the same date, two Tuesdays and two 8ths of June, 
because of crossing the 180th degree. This re- 
minded me of the story of Jules Verne, winning the 
wager in travelling around the world in eighty days, 
on account of this extra day. 

We arrived in Honolulu on June 10th, and here 
again we were met by representatives of the press, 

308 



YOKOHAMA TO HONOLULU 

and the Maharaja got his share of newspaper noto- 
riety. The Maharaja had cabled ahead and secured 
motor-cars for us, and I accepted his invitation to 
motor around Honolulu. We returned to the 
Moana Hotel for supper, and went aboard the 
steamer the same night. In Honolulu I also saw 
the house of the former Queen. 

In the Pacific Commercial Advertiser, Hono- 
lulu, June 11th, was a long account relative to the 
Maharaja, from which I quote only the following: 

No other man in the world is the possessor of so many 
jewels as this Indian Raja, and he is the owner of the only 
gold and silver artillery in the world. Posted to defend his 
gorgeous palace are four guns fashioned from gold and silver. 
They are the products of a native artisan, who worked five 
years in fashioning them. Each of the cannon weighs four 
hundred pounds, and two are of solid gold and two are of 
solid silver, save for the inner barrel, which is of steel. 

Dazzling and magnificent is the apparel of the bullocks that 
haul this royal artillery. Forty-five thousand dollars is said to 
be the cost of the trappings. On the horns of the animals are 
golden caps, and on their legs are anklets of gold and silver. 
Ornaments of gold adorn their heads, and when the royal 
artillery is in motion the splendor of it dazzles the eyes. The 
guns are guarded day and night by picked men from the royal 
bodyguard. 

The most famous diamond necklace of the world is the 
property of the maharaja. It is composed of two hundred 
beautiful brilliants of marvellous purity, each as large as a 
hazelnut. This necklace is valued at $12,000,000. Then he 
has a famous collarette, made of five hundred diamonds. 
Hanging from this circle of light is the fifth largest diamond 

309 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

in the world, the Star of the South. Emeralds are strung 
between the diamonds. 

In one room of the palace is a rug with a surface of four 
square yards, made entirely of beautiful diamonds, pearls, and 
rubies. The gems have been woven into a regular carpet, with 
designs and margins clearly defined. 

His household expenses are borne by the people, so that he 
is enabled to invest his enormous income in gems, rare carvings, 
paintings, and rugs. 

The ]3rincess yesterday on landing wore two magnificent 
bracelets set with emeralds and diamonds, which drew all eyes 
as the beautiful young woman walked to the waiting automobile. 

Travelling with the party is Mrs. Clark Fisher of New 
Jersey, a woman of wealth and social position, who is a close 
friend of the Gaekwar's family. On arrival in San Francisco, 
Mrs. Fisher will travel across the mainland by motor. Her 
machine is aboard the Siberia. 

Referring to this jewelry, I wish to say that 
while this magnificent jewelry is worn by the Prin- 
cess Indraraja and Her Highness, it really belongs 
to the estate of Baroda, and they are responsible 
for every jewel carried away. If lost, they would 
have to be paid for out of His Highness's private 
income. The servants who have the jewel caskets 
in charge keep a strict record of every jewel taken 
out, and when returned. Should one be lost through 
their negligence, they must work and pay it back 
to the estate. 




AFTER THE FAREWELL. LUNCHEON WITH THE PRINCESS OF BARODA 

XXV 

AMERICAN SOIL AGAIN 

WE arrived at San Francisco on June 17th, 
about five o'clock in the morning, and pride 
possessed us as we entered and passed 
through the wonderful " Golden Gate." As we 
shook hands with our steamer acquaintances, the 
words passed around the ship, " Is it not good to be 
at home again!" This was my first visit to this 
western coast of America, and I felt the least bit 
homesick; but hardly had this thought passed 
through my mind when I was greeted by a gentle- 
man with the words, " Is this Mrs. Fisher? I am 
Mr. Williams, of the Locomobile Company. They 
wished to congratulate you on your safe arrival, 
and to place an automobile at your disposal in San 
Francisco." 

So with Billikins under one arm and Jappy 

311 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

under the other, I stepped proudly forth, when I 
was stopped by an official at the end of the gang- 
plank, who said firmly, " Madam, you cannot land 
with those animals." 

"Why not?" 

" Because you have no permit, and no ani- 
mals are allowed to land on the Pacific Coast with- 
out a doctor's certificate." 

There was no use arguing with the man, as he 
was only carrying out his orders, so I was obliged to 
return to the boat, which I did in rather a crestfallen 
manner, and called to Albert to take charge of the 
dogs and the monkey and remain on board until I 
could find out what must be done. No one had told 
me of this law before I left Yokohama, and now for 
the first time I learned that I should have obtained 
a certificate from the American Consul at Yoko- 
hama, and should also have got a doctor's certificate 
that my animals were in perfect health and condi- 
tion when they went on board ship, and that they 
had not been to Manila. However, it was rather 
late in the day to learn this now. As the animals 
had been kept in my bath-room all the way over, 
and were in perfect health and condition, I finally 
obtained permission to land them, though only after 
considerable trouble. By four o'clock we were 
safely housed in the Palace Hotel. 

The account published in the San Francisco 
Call was rather amusing. I quote part of it as 
follows : 

312 



AMERICAN SOIL AGAIN 

WOMAN MAKES ROUND THE WORLD TOUR WITH 
PETS IN AUTOMOBILE 

Except where there were oceans to cross, Mrs. Clark Fisher, 
who arrived here yesterday on the liner Siberia^ has made the 
journey from her summer home on Lake Como, Italy, in a big 
Locomobile touring-car, Mr. H. F. Brooks running the car. 
Accompanying her was her maid, a man servant, and Honk- 
Honk, a Boston bull terrier. In India a monkey was added to 
the entourage, and in Japan a Cheen dog. The journey has 
occupied eleven months so far. The only hitch in her whole 
journey occurred yesterday, when Chief Officer Stevens refused 
to allow the dogs and the monkey to land, because Mrs. Fisher 
had neglected to acquire a health certificate for them before 
leaving Yokohama. Mrs. Fisher stormed and even threatened, 
and refused to be separated from her pets. Honk-Honk was 
a native born pup, the monkey her closest companion, and the 
Japanese dog too cute for anything. Stevens remained obdu- 
rate to her pleadings and only smiled when she told him she 
would report the matter to Washington. " All right," she said; 
" I will go back on board the ship with my pets, and will never, 
never, never leave unless they go ashore with me." The Pacific 
Mail Company, however, was spared the burden of maintaining 
a permanent boarder and a menagerie, by the intervention of 
Chief Officer Trotter, who said he had no objection to the pets 
being landed. 

It transpired later that Mrs. Fisher had brought all her 
trouble upon herself. She smuggled the pets on board with 
her at Yokohama, and kept their presence in her stateroom a 
secret for two days. "If she had taken them on board openly," 
said the inspector, " she would have been given a certificate 
which would have insured their landing here without difficulty." 

Mrs. Fisher's home is in Trenton, New Jersey, and she said 
she valued her bull terrier more for his watchfulness than as 
a pet. " Honk-Honk stood guard at night," declared Mrs. 
Fisher, " and a native would have been extraordinarily clever 

313 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

to have got within ten feet of our bungalow or tent without 
Honk-Honk knowing it and giving the alarm. He rather dis- 
graced himself in some of the native villages by chasing chick- 
ens, but he took such good care of us that we could not deny 
him a little diversion once in a while." 

In San Francisco many of my old acquaintances 
called on me, some being people that I had not 
heard from or seen in years. Among them was the 
wife of one of the officers stationed there, and 
together we visited the government reservation and 
had tea in the officers' quarters. 

One day we spent in driving through the Park, 
and we also had a farewell luncheon with the Prin- 
cess Indraraja at the Cliff House, for here we had 
to say farewell to His Highness of Baroda and 
party, as they were en route for Canada and so on 
to New York. 

Mr. Brooks examined every part of the car to 
find out how the engine had stood the strain after 
the thousands of miles we had covered by land and 
sea, and reported that some of the main bearings 
were loose, and that it was only necessary to take 
them up a little. He also took down the cooler 
and saw that everything was thoroughly oiled 
before putting it back, and changed a few washers 
on the different parts of the machine. That was 
about all that was needed ; he did not have to renew 
any part of my car. 

Here we added a small air-pump on the side of 
the car for the gasoline tank, as in going up the 

314 



AMERICAN SOIL AGAIN 

high grades we had found that this would he neces- 
sary. Otherwise, the gas would have to be forced 
up or the engine would now and then stop. This 
forcing was done by Albert putting his mouth to 
the gasoline tank and blowing. This was the first 
time Mr. Brooks had ground any valves or cleaned 
out carbon since we had left India. 

On June 22d the Locomobile people gave me a 
banquet, there being about seventy-five guests 
present. I was called upon for a speech, and an- 
swered many questions about our trip through 
India and Japan. 

Here also the Michelin people, whose tires we 
had used, bestowed attention upon us. 

In San Francisco the spirit of entertaining 
seemed to follow us, and each day we were enter- 
tained at a luncheon or a dinner, so that here again, 
where I had expected to be among strangers, I 
was at once made to feel at home. 

On June 26th we packed our baggage on the 
car and were ready to start on our long journey 
across the continent to New York. The first part 
of this trip we were accompanied by eight or ten 
automobiles containing San Francisco friends, who 
rode with us for about thirty miles, when we were 
served with a buffet lunch and wished bon voyage. 

We ran from San Francisco to San Jose, to 
Sacramento, to Niles, to Livermore, and to Stock- 
ton, a long hard run, with several stretches of sand, 

315 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

and in some places very rough roads. The weather 
was extremely warm. 

Billikins and the two little dogs always received 
their full share of attention at the hotels and en 
route, Billikins winning friends by his sad visage, 
and his friendly little hand outstretched in greeting. 
During all this time he had behaved very well, 
giving his mistress no trouble whatever, and the 
three little animals were good comrades. When- 
ever we stopped to rest by the wayside, they en- 
joyed grand romps, never losing their tempers or 
hurting one another. 







HOT CREEK RANCH 



XXVI 

ROUGH ROADS AND TOUGH HOTELS 

WE stopped at Placefville for luncheon. We 
shall never do so again. The meat was 
tough, the milk sour, the tea cold, and the 
waitress impertinent. She was grievously insulted 
because we asked for a second cup of tea. ' We 
only furnish one cup of tea for forty cents!" she 
said, tossing her head. After inquiring the price 
of a second cup, and assuring her of our ability to 
pay for it, we succeeded in getting it. 

From here we went to Sugar Loaf, where we 
found a small mountain house. The proprietress, 
a German by birth, and her two daughters, were 
polite and friendly, and made us feel quite at home. 
They told us that the streams in the vicinity were 
full of trout, and that the few people who came 

317 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

there were mostly school-teachers from San Fran- 
cisco, who spent their vacations in this peaceful 
spot. The water was clear and cold, and the odor 
of the pines and the good fresh air made it a delight- 
ful spot in which to linger, and we remained here 
for two days. 

On June 30th, at 9 :30 a. m., we left Sugar Loaf 
and arrived at Lake Talioe at noon. Going to the 
summit of the mountain, our engine got hot and 
the water boiled over. This "Sir. Brooks remedied 
by opening the sides of the hood, allowing the air, 
which in the middle of the day was hot, to play 
around the cylinders. He also discovered that it 
was necessary to use heavier oil in this altitude. 

Lake Tahoe is a beautiful sheet of water, and 
the mountain air is invigorating. The cottages are 
built in a circle in the woods, all having a view of 
the lake. 

Here we engaged a cottage containing three 
rooms and a bath, and, drawing up our motor along- 
side, made ourselves quite at home. My little ani- 
mal family enjoyed the freedom from restraint, 
and romped merrily. 

I became very ill, having contracted ptomaine 
poisoning, from which I had suffered more or less 
ever since we had landed in San Francisco. Doctor 
Kelsey, who was taking his vacation and staying in 
the neighboring cottage with his wife and children, 
saw me safely through this illness. 

We remained here two days longer than I had 

318 



ROUGH ROADS AND TOUGH HOTELS 

expected, in order to recuperate and enjoy the 
delightful air and the fresh lake trout. We wished 
to avoid the crowds of people who were pushing, 
riding, crawling — any way to get to Reno, to see 
the Johnson-Jeffries tight, this place being on the 
direct road to Reno. We decided we would go at 
least one hundred miles out of the way, if neces- 
sary, in order to avoid this exhibition of a white man 
standing up to be pummelled by a black one. 

We were amused here at the sight of an old 
automobile coach which was used in place of the 
stage-coach of earlier days. This automobile 
made two trips a day, carrying the mail and pas- 
sengers, between Placerville and Lake Tahoe. The 
auto was much battered, and dirty and greasy-look- 
ing, but the passengers sat up proudly and looked 
as if they enjoyed it as much as if it was the finest- 
looking car ever put on the road. 

Another car that attracted our attention was 
one containing a party of men who had started from 
San Francisco in high spirits, and doubtless livelier 
spirits inside. In coming over the same route we 
had travelled, they had run into a car ahead of 
them, breaking their water cooler. But in this case 
mind overcame matter, and they had purchased an 
old milk-can, which they were utilizing as a water 
cooler by running the pipes in some way or other, 
and off they started the next morning with the old 
milk-can standing on the running board of the car. 
and evidently answering every purpose. 

319 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

While we were here some cowboys came in with 
cattle, and to entertain me they gave an exhibition 
of the way they lasso them, in front of my cottage. 

We found that the engine lost a little power 
from the high altitude, but otherwise everything 
was all right; so, making an early start, we resumed 
our journey. 




A MID-DAY REST IN CALIFORNIA 



On the road from Lake Tahoe to Kingsbury, 
Nevada, the roads were narrow and the grades 
steep and long, one of them being eight miles in 
length, with short, sharp turns before reaching 
Wally Springs. We cut across the fields to Gran- 
gerville, and from there went by way of Mount 
House to Wellington. From Wellington we trav- 

320 



ROUGH ROADS AND TOUGH HOTELS 

elled to Hawthorne, a distance of seventy-three 
miles over a rough road, hot and dusty. Passing 
through the most desolate, barren country, the earth 
parched and brown, through sagebrush and over 
rocks, we came upon Lucky Boy Camp, and finally 
reached Hawthorne, a distance of one hundred and 
twenty-four miles from Tahoe. Here we stopped 
for the night. 

Here we secured a supply of gasoline and 
engine oil, and then ran from Hawthorne to Mina, 
where we had lunch. I am certain there were two 
thousand whiskey bottles lining the road through 
which we passed. We met one stage-coach drawn 
by four poor-looking horses whose ribs could be 
counted. We passed the carcasses of horses, cows, 
and sheep, which had been overcome by thirst in 
this desert country and had dropped down to die. 
We also saw plenty of coyotes and rabbits, the 
coyotes not coming very near our car, however. 
Here Billikins's little cry of warning would inform 
us of their proximity long before we saw any signs 
of them. We filled our water bottles whenever pos- 
sible, for we were thirsty, and with the hot sun 
beating into our faces, and the heat of the desert, 
ii; was not a pleasant ride. On this road we passed 
two automobiles that had been stranded and left 
there, the owners having either been taken on by 
ether cars, or tramping all the way to Mina. 

From Mina we ran to Miller's Siding, and from 
Miller's Siding on to Tonopah. On the way to the 

21 321 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

latter place, at a turn in the road, we saw a water 
trough, and stopped to fill our water bottles. 
While doing this, two or three men approached us, 
one carrying a gun. At first we thought we might 
be in for a real hold-up, but they entered into 
friendly conversation, asking for the latest news 
from Reno, as they had heard that Jeffries had 
been knocked out in the fifth round. We said we 
did not care if they knocked each other's heads off. 

They replied, " Well, it is easy to see you are 
not from the West. Which way are you going? " 

We told them we were on our way to Tonopah, 
and they said that the coach had just gone through, 
and that the driver, who had been drinking a little 
too much, had dropped the mail-bag off the coach 
about two miles down the road, but would not take 
time to go back for it; so we might pick it up and 
leave it at the first camp we came to. 

We found the mail-bag just as they had said; 
but the first camp we reached was twenty miles 
farther on. We asked for the proprietor, to whom 
we handed over the mail-bag, and he seemed much 
amused, remarking, " I thought Bill would drop 
something before reaching his destination." It 
seemed to me that this was a place where a little 
government oversight would not be misplaced. 

For about three miles outside of Tonopah one 
has to travel over a road filled with empty tin cans, 
bottles, glass, etc. One can see the smokestacks of 
the rnines, pouring out black smoke. Not a garden, 

322 



ROUGH ROADS AND TOUGH HOTELS 

or even an attempt at one, did we see in this place ; 
everybody here lives on canned goods. We also 
passed many holes prospectors had dug into the 
ground, expecting to find a fortune. Outside of 
these deserted holes, one would generally see a 
couple of hammers, a pickaxe, and a shovel, left to 
rust in the sun. The tin cans and bottles were dis- 
astrous to our tires, and we found we would have 
to lay in an extra supply. 

We reached Tonopah when they were celebrat- 
ing the Fourth of July in regular mining-town 
style. One of the entertainments was a water fight, 
which took place on opposite sides of the street. 
The men taking part were dressed in rubber suits 
and divided into two parties, each armed with a big 
fire hose, with which they played water on the oppo- 
site party. The side that caused the other to re- 
treat around the corner won the prize ! 

At Tonopah we had no trouble in obtaining 
plenty of gasoline, and we here supplied ourselves 
with a pocket comjoass and two two-and-one-half 
gallon water skins extra ; also a long-handled shovel 
and an extra five-gallon can of gasoline, which we 
placed on the running board of our car. In the 
hotel here we found everything clean but expensive. 

From Tonopah we rolled on through the desert, 
seeing rabbits, and here and there springs of water 
bubbling out of the ground. About four o'clock in 
the afternoon, to our great astonishment in this 
barren country, we came to a house that looked as 

323 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

if it had slipped out of some country suburb, with a 
well-kept yard and everything clean and comfort- 
able. We stopped here and asked for a drink of 
cold water, and learned that the place was called 
" Hot Creek Ranch." A sweet-faced woman, 
whom we afterward learned was Mrs. Williams, 
came to the door, and said, " Oh, you don't want 
water, do you? Wouldn't you prefer a glass of 
milk?" 

Presently a little girl came out with four glasses 
and a large glass pitcher filled with delicious sweet 
milk. We were asked where we were going and 
where we came from, and after we had given an 
account of ourselves, our good friend insisted on our 
getting out and spending the night, saying she so 
seldom saw anybody, she would be delighted to have 
us. We decided to accept her hospitality, and get 
an early start in the morning; so, seated on the 
pleasant piazza, I listened to the account of how her 
husband had settled there many years ago. She 
introduced me to her two daughters, who had mar- 
ried lawyers and left home, one living in Chicago 
and the other in New York, but who were spending 
the summer months with her. 

This home way off in this desolate country is as 
refined and comfortable as one could desire. The 
hostess said that sometimes for six weeks at a time 
they would not see a person outside of their own 
family. Only once a week were they able to send 
off or receive mail. They were looking forward 

324 



ROUGH ROADS AND TOUGH HOTELS 

to the building of a new railroad through there. 
They claimed there was plenty of copper and lead 
there, but it cost too much to haul it with mules to 
Tonopah, the nearest shipping station. 

The next morning we travelled from Hot Creek 
to Ely, over a rough, hard road, and in some places 
through desolate fields. Here and there we would 
find a ranch fence, and be obliged to travel four or 
five miles around over rough stubble and sagebrush 
before we could again reach the road. These 
fenced-in places generally contained a notice that 
any one caught trespassing would be shot without 
further notice, so we were careful to hunt up a road, 
if there was none in sight, and we never attempted 
to disregard that warning. 

We took the advice of some ranchmen to take a 
short cut from Ely to Current Creek, but I would 
not advise any other motorists to follow this short 
cut, as this is one of the instances where the " Far- 
thest way around is the shortest way " to the place 
you desire to reach. We passed an extinct volcano 
on this road, and here our right rear tire blew out. 
As we always carried three extra ones, we were 
inconvenienced by only a short delay, but it was a 
hot, desolate place in which to stop. 

While Mr. Brooks and Albert were working on 
the tire, Maria and I took the dogs for a little exer- 
cise, and came across a little spring bubbling up 
from the ground on the side of a hill. Not knowing 
whether or not it was one of the arsenic springs that 

325 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 



abound in that part of the country, we did not dare 
drink, only taking water for our motor. 

Snakes abound in this part of the country also, 
but they are mostly of the harmless variety. We 
ran over several of them in our journey. We saw 
one or two black snakes on the road, but the most 
curious-looking ones we saw were called " Blow 




ON THE AMERICAN DESERT 



Snakes." These would lie right across the road- 
way, and would puff themselves up something like 
adders, only we were told these were harmless. I 
suggested that in their inflated condition they would 
not make bad inner tubes. 

We ran on to Cherry Creek, where we stopped 
for the night. Here we met a miner who came to 
look at the car, upon hearing of our arrival, and the 
next morning at five o'clock he was there again and 
presented to me some pieces of rock which looked 

326 



ROUGH ROADS AND TOUGH HOTELS 

like hard stones, but which I have since had cut and 
polished and they form beautiful turquoises, with 
ninety per cent, gold running through the stones. 

From Cherry Creek we ran on to Cobra, then 
to Montello, and soon to Lucin, where we stopped 
for the night. The only place to stay was a little 
dugout. For two rooms, with the privilege of a cot 
in my room; supper and breakfast for four, and 
one quart of coffee, they charged us a total of $6.15. 
This was a stopping place for nearly all the motor- 
ists who had been through up to this time, but they 
told us that almost always they would send their 
motors on by rail to the nearest repair shop from 
here after making this trip. 

Early the next morning, we started on our jour- 
ney toward Ogden. This was one of the worst 
trips we had made since we started out. At Ter- 
race, Utah, we tried running on the railroad ties, 
but found this not only uncomfortable, but hard on 
the tires, so we went down the bank and struck 
what we thought was the road, but found it was 
nothing but a sheej) trail, on which we lost our way. 
We had no directions except what the guide-book 
told us, which was to follow the old Union Pacific 
railroad. We took it for granted this meant the 
tracks, so we tried that and stuck to the tracks all 
right ; but, reaching a place that was almost impos- 
sible to get through, and seeing what we all thought 
was a fairly good road on the other side of the track, 

327 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

we decided after a good deal of parleying to go 
over. We were hot, dusty, and tired. 

We started to cross the track, but the cinders 
and dust being very light, and the front wheels not 
striking the ties but going down between them, we 
stuck there. I suddenly noticed oil pouring from 
underneath the car, found the petcock broken, and 
then began the liveliest work our little party had 
performed since we had left comfortable quarters 
in America on the 16th of the previous July. 

We did not know what time a train might be 
due on this road, and had nothing to work with in 
the way of lumber except a few old railroad ties 
which we found lying at some distance. These we 
carried to the car, also some rocks which we found, 
and with them we tried to jack up the car and get 
it over the tracks. The hot sun poured down on our 
heads, the perspiration streamed from our faces, but 
we worked like beavers and at last managed to jack 
up the rear. I took my station some distance away 
so as to warn any approaching train, while the rest 
of the party worked. It was a relief indeed when 
at last the motor-car was safely off the track and on 
the other side, and we sank down nearly exhausted, 
but still looking for that train that did not come. 
We learned afterward, upon arriving at Kelton, 
that only about once a week a freight train ran over 
this track! 

Then we had to study how to mend that petcock, 
for our oil was getting lower all this time. Mr. 

328 



ROUGH ROADS AND TOUGH HOTELS 

Brooks found some canvas patches in his repair kit, 
which I named " porous plasters," and these were 
put over the hole and fastened securely with twine 
which we always carried with us, some one in the 
meantime holding a hand over the broken part, to 
keep the oil from pouring out until the plaster was 
completed. We worked there for nearly three 
hours, in the heat of the day, and we did not even 
think of lunch, simply taking a swallow of water 
every little while, as our mouths and throats were 
parched with the alkali dust. 

I noticed Mr. Brooks and Albert in consulta- 
tion, and did not like the expression of their faces, 
as I anticipated what was coming. They thought 
I was too rash in keeping on, as the road seemed to 
grow worse instead of better, with deep washouts 
every fifty to seventy-five feet. Each time we 
would go through one of these, it seemed as if some- 
thing must break or give way on the car. I was 
determined we should keep on, however, as we knew 
we were headed in the right direction, any way; so 
to prevent any mutiny, I took all the attractions, 
the two dogs, the monkey, and Maria, and we 
started walking on ahead. They were obliged to 
follow with the car, as they feared to lose sight of 
us in this desert place. 

They found a ravine which led under the rail- 
road track, so decided to go down the embankment 
and under the tracks instead of trying again to go 
over them, but this was such a strain on the car that 

329 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

the driving chain slipped off the right wheel. After 
some little delay, Mr. Brooks was able to replace 
the chain, and they climbed up rather a slippery 
bank and followed us, when I discovered the foot- 
prints of our own kind in the shape of an empty 
gasoline can, and part of an inner tube. I picked 
up this tube and swung it around my head in 
delight, for I knew that in this case, what man had 
done woman could do. Evidently a car had been 
through here before us ; so when my car caught up 
with us, Mr. Brooks said, " I did think we ought to 
turn back, but now we have got into the road." 
And sure enough, about half a mile farther on we 
struck the main road which we had lost at Terrace. 

We reached Kelton about five o'clock in the 
evening, July 10th. Here we found a place to 
lodge, with one mirror in four rooms, one wash- 
bowl, a broken pitcher, and a piece of tea-towelling 
cut up into foot squares and called towels. Here 
was served to us a Sunday-night supper consisting 
of tough beef, greasy fried potatoes, sour canned 
peaches, and hot water which they called tea. 

From Kelton we started early Monday morn- 
ing for Ogden, passing through Ogden to Salt Lake 
City. About ten miles outside of the city we were 
met by Mr. Karr, and escorted by him to Salt Lake. 
We stayed two days here, stopping at the Knuts- 
ford Hotel, where they charged twelve dollars for 
miserable rooms. The meals were also expensive. 
It was about 120° in the sun that day, the ther- 

330 




THE MORMON TEMPLE, SALT LAKE CITT 



ROUGH ROADS AND TOUGH HOTELS 

mometer seeming to soar with the prices. We 
stayed here longer than we intended, so as to have a 
proper patch put on the crank case. We also dis- 
covered that the bearings on one of the rear wheels 
were getting worn, so we fitted up the wheel with 
new ones. 

While in Salt Lake City, I was anxious to see 
a real Mormon, and several were pointed out to me, 
but I could find no marks of identification that 
made them any different from other men in the 
East. 

We left Salt Lake City on July 14th. The road 
back from Salt Lake City to Ogden was bad. They 
were building a new one and had torn it up for 
miles, leaving the soft dirt. As our engine pulled 
us through, we passed four cars standing there, 
waiting for teams to come and haul them out of 
this dirt. 

We managed to reach Evanston, Wyoming, the 
night of the 14th, where Mr. Spaulding gave us 
directions which were of great assistance to us in 
reaching Cheyenne. He had motored over the 
road, and told us that about thirty miles from 
Evanston we would find a beautiful spring, where 
we could camp. We started from Evanston in a 
pouring rain on the 15th, not knowing that the 
roads were clay and very slippery, but our Victor 
chains again saved the day for us, and we rolled on, 
much to the chagrin of some farmers who stood 
watching us and making remarks on the possibility 
of our having to give up. 




IN MEDICINE BOW 



XXVII 
THE IRRESPONSIBLE MR, McBLUFF 

IN Evanston, among others, there is a more or less 
wonderful hotel. At least, they call it a hotel. 
I insisted on my maid sleeping in the folding- 
bed that was in my room, while I occupied a sort of 
sofa that was supposed to be attached to the wall. 
It looked, if possible, more inviting than the bed, 
but as we were tired after a hard day's run, I did not 
examine it with care. An hour after I had retired, with 
both dogs asleep on the foot of my couch, I dreamed 
that I had gone to bed on the back of a bucking 
bronco. I found myself and the dogs in a heap on 
the floor. In turning over, I had got on the wrong 
side of this bed, and it had doubled up, throwing us 
all out, mercifully, instead of shutting us all in. 

334 



THE IRRESPONSIBLE MR. McBLUFF 

From Evanston we went to Grangers, fording 
the river here. Passing through Green River, we 
stopped at Rock Springs for the night. It took us 
all day to get from Grangers to Rock Springs, and 
we found long stretches of deep sand with high 
centres. On turning to the left we came to Rock 
Springs, consisting mainly of a railroad station, a 
hotel and pool-room, the restaurant containing 
three rooms, kitchen, dining-room, and bed-room. 

Sitting on a home-made bench outside the res- 
taurant were an Irishman and an Italian. 

A little to the right of the hotel and pool-room, 
in an enclosure, were a couple of mules, and we 
were informed that the men made their living by 
waiting here to pull the heavy caravans and auto- 
mobiles through the sand with these mules, as the 
horses alone were not able to pull the heavy cara- 
vans through the heavy roads. They were dis- 
appointed when they learned that we would not 
require their services. 

We passed on through Point of Rocks, and near 
Bitter Creek had a very disagreeable time, having 
to fill in washouts in the road with sagebrush, every 
few miles. We crept carefully along through the 
soft mud, with not a vestige of life in sight — only 
miles of desert meeting our view. This place, I 
believe, is known as " The Red Desert." 

From Bitter Creek we went on to Rawlins. 
Here we got off the road, and went around the 
country about twenty miles to get to Haiina. The 

335 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

road was sandy, with high centres, and the ground 
squirrels had burrowed into the ground, making it 
dangerous travelling for motorists. Every now 
and then we would find ourselves taking a sudden 
jump as the rear wheels would be buried in these 
holes. 

From Hanna, after a great deal of hard pulling, 
we managed to reach Medicine Bow. All this time 
we were obliged to keep our chains on. Drawing 
up to the hotel, we were told that it was full, but 
that a Mr. McBluff, who lived around the corner, 
sometimes would let people have rooms in his house. 
As we had found no inviting place in which to put 
up our tent and camp for the night, we decided to 
try Mr. McBluff's. 

A man in his shirt sleeves, dressed in his best 
Sunday clothes evidently, appeared and in answer 
to our inquiries said, " Yes, yez can have rooms, but 
me wife is sick." 

As there was nothing better in sight, we con- 
cluded to risk even the indisposition of Mr. Mc- 
Bluff's wife. 

From Mr. McBluff's wobbly walk and loose 
tongue, I judged he had been indulging in intoxi- 
cants; but we took the rooms, and, after washing, 
went over to the restaurant to get something to eat. 
Mr. Brooks and Albert called on the saloon-keeper, 
Mr. Gus Grimm, asking for directions to get from 
Medicine Bow to Che3 r enne. We afterward found 
the name " Gus Grimm " on many sheep trails and 

336 



THE IRRESPONSIBLE MR. McBLUFF 

roads giving directions, but the hand always pointed 
toward Gus Grimm s place of business, telling the 
traveller where he could get fine whiskey. 

Maria and I were returning to Mr. McBluff 
when we were startled by a woman's voice crying 
out, " Murder! Help! " Two little girls came run- 
ning from the house with the interesting informa- 
tion that " father " was killing " mother." I rushed 
into the house, and found Mr. McBluff clinching 
and wrestling with a young man, while a woman in 
her night-clothes and her hair streaming down her 
back was trying to hold her husband and was 
screaming for help. I asked wherefore, and was 
told the young man was a son of Mr. McBluff, 
and when the father threatened to strike his wife, 
the boy had clinched with him, and would not permit 
the blow, thus bringing the wrath of the father on 
the son. 

My appearance on the scene quieted them some- 
what ; I took Mr. McBluff by the arm and led him 
from the room, asking what the trouble was about. 
He said he had been in Denver for three days, and 
had spent three hundred dollars, saying, "One hun- 
dred dollars a day is not bad for a blacksmith, is 
it?" I replied that I thought it was pretty good 
under the circumstances, and he went on to say that 
he had earned the money himself, and he thought he 
had a right to spend it as he pleased, and that his 
wife could not dictate to him how he should spend 
liis money. 

22 337 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

After a few moments' further conversation he 
turned to me and said, " Are you a Salvation Army 
girl? " Upon telling him that I was not, he wanted 
to know what I was doing travelling around with 
that caravan out there. " Do yez need any 
repairs?" he asked. Upon my replying in the 
negative, he remarked that we were the first auto- 
ists that had been through there, and he had seen 
several hundred, that did not come to him for 
repairs to the machines. So I gradually drew his 
attention from his wife to himself, and he told me 
the sad story of his life. Here was a man who 
would work for months and then take his hard- 
earned money and spend it in Denver in a few days, 
as though all he had to do was to sign a check to get 
more. If gentlemen of Mr. McBluff's ilk worked 
harder and earned less they would not throw it 
away so carelessly. 

We left Medicine Bow on July 20th and 
lunched at Laramie; the road ran over the prairie 
and was pretty well cut up and filled with the holes 
made by the prairie dogs. Nearly all the way we 
followed Gus Grimm's signs, going, however, in the 
opposite direction to which the hand pointed; we 
were grateful for even this guidance, for the mirage 
we encountered here would often lead us to think 
we were coming to a mountain or a cliff, when we 
would find ourselves simply rolling along the road. 
We passed many alkali lakes which looked as if 

338 



THE IRRESPONSIBLE MR. McBLUFF 

filled with water, but, upon reaching the supposed 
lakes, we would find nothing but sand. About 
fifty-four miles from Laramie we found a fine 
spring of water, and here we camped for the night, 
starting off early the next day and reaching Chey- 
enne in time for dinner. 

Cheyenne is not unbearably interesting. We 
laid in a new supply of tires, and hurried on. 

Travelling through the country, we saw the 
alleged crops. The wheat and oats yields in 
Wyoming and Nevada were what I should call 
poor. The farmers cut their oats, and make no 
attempt to thresh them. 

The odor from the wheat-fields and the corn 
was delicious, and contrasted strongly with the 
odors of flowers that had filled the air of most of 
the other countries through which we had passed. 
I was interested, too, in noting the condition of the 
ground through Wyoming and on until we reached 
Colorado. 

The farmers seem to have used the ground until 
it is almost worn out, evidently never returning any 
of the crops, or any part of them, for fertilizing 
purposes, and on many occasions I noticed bad 
places in the roads had been filled in with good 
fertilizer, evidently the easiest way of getting rid 
of it. When I saw the poor crops, I could not help 
wondering why that fertilizer had not been put in 
the fields instead of the roads! The drouth had 

339 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

affected the corn-fields so that I was in doubt 
whether they would ever amount to anything; but 
as we rolled on toward Nebraska, and within the 
upper part of Colorado, all doubts as to crops 
ceased. 

Here we could look for miles and miles around 
the country, and see nothing but beautiful corn and 
wheat fields. An interesting sight through this 
country was the tremendous threshing machines at 
work, threshing the grain and stacking the straw 
with the binders and piling it up for shipment. 
These machines seem almost human in what they 
can accomplish. 

At one time I thought Billikins would be left 
to the tender mercies of the Nebraska farmers. 
Had this happened, I feel quite sure there would 
have been no plague of grasshoppers in that part of 
the country, for they were a tender morsel for 
Billikins, and whenever we stopped along the way, 
and he had the opportunity, he was busily at work 
devouring these little pests. 

Stopping under an inviting-looking apple tree, 
to get a few for our own use, as the branches were 
hanging over the roadside, we forgot Billikins's 
chain for a moment, and we all exclaimed in one 
breath, " Oh, see Billikins! " and in as short a time 
as it takes to tell this, little Billikins was in the top 
of the tree having a most delightful time, picking 
the apples and mischievously dropping them. 

340 



THE IRRESPONSIBLE MR. McBLUFF 

Xo amount of persuasion could entice him from 
his exalted position, so I decided that one of the 
men must climb the tree and secure him. This 
caused a hot argument, as neither of them claimed 
any expert abilit}^ in this capacity. 

We finally started the car, and upon my getting 
out and calling Billikins, to our surprise he came 
down from the tree and hopped into my arms, 
evidently satisfied with his pleasure, and fearing he 
would be left behind. 




AT SANDUSKY 



XXVIII 
MR. KETCHUM, OF SANDUSKY, OHIO 

A S we approached Denver, we saw many beauti- 
^/j^ ful homes. Only a few years ago log huts 
graced the site. 

Here were magnificent roads. After all the 
hardships we had encountered in passing through 
the desert, the old car seemed to shake off her 
laboring, and darted along at the rate of thirty-five 
miles an hour, as if she had never done anything in 
her existence except roll through a park with 
smooth roads. 

We arrived in Denver, Colorado, the night of 
the 21st. We put up the car with the Sanford 
Motor Company, and Mr. Sanford entertained us. 
We spent the evening at the White City, a most 
interesting resort, and afterward had supper at one 
of the clubs outside of Denver. 

342 



MR. KETCHUM, OF SANDUSKY, OHIO 

On the 24th of July we left Denver ; we reached 
Sterling, Colorado, that evening at 7:30, having 
made one hundred and fifty miles in the day's run. 

On July 25th we left Sterling, after filling up 
with gasoline and oil. Roads were fairly good from 
Sterling to North Platte, Nebraska, with a good 
many stretches of sand in between Ogallala and 
North Platte. From North Platte we ran to Grand 
Island, Nebraska, where a Democratic State Con- 
vention was being held. It was impossible to get 
a room in the hotels, but a man on the street told us 
we could get rooms over the garage. As we were 
hot and tired, we were glad to get rooms almost 
anywhere. We had looked at the places outside of 
Grand Island for twent}^ miles around, but could 
find no place to camp, as there was no water or 
firewood to be found, and nothing but ugly wire 
fences ; so we applied to the house referred to. The 
woman who met us desired twenty dollars for two 
miserable rooms in the rear of the house over the 
garage ; and of all the forlorn and generally dilapi- 
dated outlooks I ever witnessed, the one we could 
view from our window was the most perfect of its 
kind. Old baskets, bottles, rags, and garbage of 
every description seemed to have been thrown out 
in the rear of this expensive place. I refused to 
pay twenty dollars for these accommodations, and 
we finally settled on ten dollars. It was a noble 
price. 

Outside of Grand Island we passed the point 

343 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

midway between the Coasts, just half way between 
Boston and San Francisco. We left Grand Island 
on the 27th, about nine o'clock, and found bad 
roads until within about twenty-five miles of 
Omaha; from there the roads were in tine condi- 
tion. In Omaha we stopped at the Henshaw Hotel. 
Here I learned that Mr. Curtiss had been giving 
an exhibition that day of his ability to fly in his 
airship. At nine o'clock in the evening he sent up 
his card, and we had a pleasant little chat, he telling 
me that he was sure we would meet somewhere 
again on the globe in my " around the world " 
tour. The last time I had met him was in Brescia. 

After a day, we left Omaha for Chicago, via 
Des Moines, and reached Des Moines about noon 
of July 30th, where we were met and entertained 
at a luncheon given by the manager of the Iowa 
Auto Supply Company. The President of the 
Motor Club presented me with a little gold badge. 
From Des Moines, we ran to Newton, where we had 
a tire blow-out. We spent the night at Newton, 
and left on the 31st about seven o'clock. We had 
an excellent road and good guide-posts on the 
River to River road, arriving in Davenport about 
eight o'clock in the evening. We put our car in 
Peterson's garage in Davenport. 

From here the roads began to get a little rough. 
When we got to within about thirty miles of Chi- 
cago, Mr. Banta sent two gentlemen to meet us and 
escort us into the city of Chicago. Here we were 

344 



MR. KETCHUM, OF SANDUSKY, OHIO 

obliged to put two new leaves in our front spring, 
which began to show signs of the hard work it had 
endured, the roads over which we had passed being 
so rough and the car so heavily loaded. In Chicago. 
Mr. Banta gave a banquet at which he introduced 
me to many of the citizens, and he also presented 
to me a set of automobile Blue Books handsomely 
bound, with photographs of myself and party en 
route. Speeches were made, and I received many 
congratulations. 

On August 14th we left Chicago, with the 
American Beauty roses which had been presented 
to me tied on the side of the car. At Valparaiso, 
we struck an awful washout, and again broke a leaf 
in the right spring, but we managed to go on slowly 
until we reached La Porte. The next day we trav- 
elled to Waterloo, Indiana. 

Here we remained two days, resting, and I en- 
joyed the good home cooking they served to us at 
the Waterloo Hotel, a small place but very com- 
fortable. There I enjoyed my first taste of green 
corn since I had left America. 

We arrived in Toledo, Ohio, the 8th of August, 
and spent the night there, going on the following- 
day. On August 10th we reached Sandusky, Ohio, 
about 3:30 o'clock. While we were rolling along 
the streets, looking for the corner at which we were 
to turn according to directions we had received, and 
not going over twelve miles an hour, a man on a 
motor-cycle pulled up alongside of us and told us 

347 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

we were under arrest for speeding. Asking him 
what the limit was, he told us eighteen miles, and I 
pointed to our spedometer, showing that we were 
only going at the rate of twelve to fifteen miles an 
hour. 

He hinted that a slight remuneration might 
permit us to go on unmolested, but I declined to 
remunerate, and was informed that I would have 
to go back with him to an official's office. So we 
turned our heavily loaded motor-car around, and 
as we were returning, people hailed us from private 
residences, asking if that man had arrested us. 
Upon my answering that he had, they said it was 
an outrage, and that they would come to my assist- 
ance, and asked what I intended to do. I said I 
would see the official, and upon my explaining to 
him how slowly we were travelling, and telling him 
who I was, I thought we could settle the matter. In 
this I was disappointed, for the man Ketchum went 
ahead and saw the official first. When we reached 
the official's office, I saw a man sitting tilted back 
in his chair, his feet on the desk, and a cigar in his 
mouth, and a not over-pleasant expression on his 
face. 

I asked if this was the official I was to see, and 
he grunted out " yes." I told him that we had been 
stopped at the railroad crossing for speeding, and 
that this was not right; that there must be some- 
thing wrong with the man's spedometer, as I knew 
mine was absolutely correct, and that the man had 

348 



MR. KETCHUM, OF SANDUSKY, OHIO 

informed me if I would come back and explain the 
matter to the proper official, he would let us go. 
Upon this the official turned to me and said, " You 
will put up a hundred-dollar check before you go.' 

I said, " What does this treatment mean? " He 
said, " It means just that you will put up a check 
for a hundred dollars or the cash, or we will take 
your car." 

I refused to put up the check or money, and he 
gave orders to have the car seized. Albert told me 
afterward that Ketchum and a policeman under- 
took to start the car, but could not do it ; so I think 
the car would have been standing there yet, or been 
hauled off with a horse; but upon second thought, 
I decided to give my check for one hundred dollars 
to appear the next morning, remembering that I 
had been accosted by respectable citizens who had 
told me they would come to my assistance if neces- 
sary. I had never submitted to an outrage of this 
kind, and I did not propose to do it then. In the 
meantime the citizens came to me, offering assist- 
ance. The next morning at ten o'clock I appeared 
at the office, a little earl} 7 , as I wished to be on hand 
in good time. The office was crowded with people 
who had heard of the affair, among them being two 
ladies whose kindness I shall never forget. They 
had been sitting on their piazza and had seen us 
pass, and remarked, " There goes a motor-car in 
which the people look as though they were having a 
good time; and they treat us with proper respect 

349 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

too, not tearing through the town," and they in- 
formed the official to this effect. I was then 
informed that the hearing was postponed for two 
weeks, when I could appear, or could pay a fine of 
$13.60. 

A gentleman present offered to go on my bond 
for one hundred dollars, the official evidently not 
liking to give up my check, but I demanded the 
check, and, upon consultation with some of the men 
there, and finding there was no redress, I paid the 
fine. After doing this, I turned to Mr. Ketchum 
and remarked, " For swearing to a lie and giving 
false evidence, I hope some day you will have a 
tumble from your motor-cycle and will be laid up 
long enough to give you time to consider what an 
outrage you have done to me." Amid the congratu- 
lations of the people that I had not left my check 
with the official, I left the office. 

As a curious coincidence, I wish to say that 
Ketchum was discharged about two weeks after this 
occurrence ; and shortly after he fell from his motor- 
cycle and broke his leg, and I understand will have 
to lose a foot. I very much regret having wished 
anything so severe, although the annoyance at the 
time provoked it. I was afterward told that one of 
the reasons he was so anxious to arrest strangers 
was that he got a percentage on the amount of the 
fines. 

This was the first time we had been held up in 
this way on our whole trip, and the first time I had 

350 



MR. KETCHUM, OF SANDUSKY, OHIO 

been compelled to pay a fine, or been subjected to 
any annoyance; and it hurt the more after having 
been treated in foreign countries with all courtesy. 
We left Sandusky about noon on the 12th of 
August, and arrived in Cleveland at 3:30, where we 
remained all night. We called on old friends in 
Cleveland, who had a breakfast prepared for our 
party. 




THE TRIUMPHANT CAR 

XXIX 

A ROYAL WELCOME HOME 

WHEN we reached Cleveland, our trip 
around the world was really finished, as 
the reader will remember my trial trip was 
to Cleveland and return; so every mile from there 
to New York was an extra lap. 

The following morning we were escorted by 
several motor-cars from Cleveland to Painesville, 
Ohio. This was a charming ride, with the lake on 
our left, and beautiful homes all along the way. 
And here the odor of the vineyards greeted us, while 
the air felt dry and fresh. 

We went on from Painesville, stopping at 
Madison, Ohio, for lunch, and then on to Erie, 
Pennsylvania, where we stopped at the Reed 
House. On the 14th we left Erie, stopping for a 

352 



A ROYAL WELCOME HOME 

short time at Buffalo, New York, and arriving in 
Rochester about 6 :30 that evening. 

In all the States through which we passed from 
San Francisco to New York, we found our New 
Jersey license was all that was necessary. This was 
true of California, Nevada, Utah, Wyoming, 
Nebraska, Iowa, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, Pennsyl- 
vania, and New York; but since then I believe 
Pennsylvania has passed a law giving an exemption 
for ten days if one's home State reciprocates; and 
we had a New York license with us. 

The Rochester Herald published the following 
under date of August 14, 1910: 

WOMAN IN WORLD MOTOR TRIP HERE 

Arrives in Rochester, Ending Remarkable Journey — 
20,000 Miles in Her Touring Car 

Intrepid New Jersey Woman, Factory Owner and Operator, 
Visits Europe, India, Asia, and Japan. 

There arrived in Rochester last night, quietly and unan- 
nounced, a woman who has just finished accomplishing a feat 
that for a man would deserve universal applause, and for a 
member of the gentler sex almost staggers belief. This woman 
was Mrs. Clark Fisher of Trenton, N. J., and the feat a tour 
around the world, traversing more than twenty thousand miles 
of actual travel by motor through Europe, Asia, India, Japan, 
and the United States. 

Mrs. Fisher is a woman of wealth and of unusual enter- 
prise. For ten years, since the death of her husband, Clark 
Fisher, she has by her intrepid work and executive ability 
personally carried on a manufacturing plant, making anvils, 
vises, and rail-joints. She employs more than three hundred 
23 353 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

men and boys who belong to no union, many of whom have 
been in the service of the company for years. Since the busi- 
ness has been in her hands, she has increased its capacity about 
four times. 

So it is little wonder that when she started on a tour around 
the world a year ago it was one that had to be carried through. 
And it has been carried through, all but the few remaining 
miles that lie between Rochester and New York City. 

Mrs. Fisher sailed for France with a " Locomobile " forty 
horse-power machine among her baggage, on July 19th last. 
Accompanying her were Harold Fisher Brooks, who is an 
expert engineer and has had in charge the driving of the 
machine since the start; Albert Bacheller, her secretary, and a 
maid. All the members of the party have made the long 
journey without mishap, and are with Mrs. Fisher at the 
present time. 

To this party one other member, Honk-Honk, a beautiful 
Boston terrier, needs to be added. Honk-Honk has the dis- 
tinction of being the only dog of which history knows, who has 
circled the globe. Billikins, a red, man-faced monkey secured 
in India, and Jappy, a Japanese Cheen dog presented to Mrs. 
Fisher by the Japanese press, are companions which have been 
added to the party, to the delight of Honk-Honk, and all of 
them were to be seen at the Hotel Rochester last night. 

Mrs. Fisher, with her companions, has practically lived in 
the automobile since leaving this country. Only once has she 
had recourse to a railroad train, and the mere mention of one 
causes her to throw up her hands. " Don't mention the stuffy 
things," she said last night. " Of course, I know that they are 
necessary, but the thought of them stifles me after travel by 
motor in the open air." 

On arrival in France, Mrs. Fisher motored the country in 
her big machine. From France she toured Germany, Switzer- 
land, and Italy, stopping for a two months' rest at Lake Como, 
where she owns a beautiful villa. From Lake Como, Mrs. 
Fisher again took up her travel, motoring to Genoa and Mar- 

354 



A ROYAL WELCOME HOME 

seilles and thence to Egypt. She spent her Christmas holidays 
with the Egyptians, visiting the places of interest for about 
three weeks. 

From thence the party sailed to India and motored from 
Bombay to Calcutta, hundreds of miles through the jungle. 
In reality, this was the most remarkable strip of the journey. 
The thought of a woman rolling over the sands of India and 
skirting the terrors of the jungle in an automobile is enough 
to catch the breath. Yet this is what this daring New Jersey 
woman did, and she now owns the distinction of being the only 
person who has attempted this feat. The Indians were so aston- 
ished when they saw this intrepid American woman buzzing 
along in a devil wagon," they fell prone to the earth as the 
party passed, and salaamed her as a magic princess from the 
land of marvels. When she reached Calcutta, it was with 
difficulty that she made them understand that she had really 
come from Bombay. 

From India the party sailed for Japan, and here once more 
took up the journey to the throbbing music of the motor-car. 
Here it was that the most untraversable roads were found. 
The Emperor of Japan, who learned that an American woman 
was touring his dominions in an auto, sent his chief engineer 
to escort the party over the perilous mountain trails, but they 
had been passed before the engineer met the party. 

Having covered Japan, the motor was once more resigned 
to the mercy of the waves to San Francisco, from where the 
trip has continued thus far. 

Mrs. Fisher comes back from her trip filled with enthu- 
siasm for the things she has seen and heard from her car on 
the remarkable journey, and she describes them with a pictu- 
resque charm. She has taken the time to study the people, both 
high and low, whom she has met, and her description of them 
is human and sympathetic. She has the greatest praise for 
her usage at the hands of the great wide world. 

" Everywhere I went," she said, " I was met with the utmost 
courtesy and consideration. I did not ask it. It came to me to 

355 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

such a surprising extent that sometimes my breath was almost 
taken away by it. 

" But I am glad to get back home again. I am growing a 
little excited as I near friends and relatives again. More than 
a year on wheels, dependent on the graces of strangers, how- 
ever kind, stirs up in one an appetite for home." 

Mrs. Fisher will leave Rochester this morning for New 
York City, by way of Syracuse, Utica, and Albany, after which 
she will go immediately to Trenton, as she is eager to take her 
place again in the factory which she operates with such 
success. 

On the 15th we left Rochester for Utica, where 
we had lunch, and arrived in Poughkeepsie about 
six o'clock. Here we were met by friends, who 
afterward escorted us on to New York. After a 
pleasant dinner and a good night's rest, we left 
Poughkeepsie about eight o'clock in the morning. 

For the benefit of motorists, I would say that 
the roads were fine all the way from Buffalo, but 
in many places there had been fresh oil used on the 
roads, which spattered over everything, and this oil 
also eats the tires, and, when dry, must make a very 
disagreeable dust for the traveller to inhale. It 
seems that the one idea of the men who have charge 
of oiling these roads is to spread it over in a thick 
paste, about three inches deep. 

At Tarrytown there was a lunch prepared for 
us, and here we were met by eight or ten motor-cars, 
the occupants welcoming us back, and joining in 
the escort to New York City. Here, too, speeches 
were made, and we received a hearty welcome home. 

356 



A ROYAL WELCOME HOME 

If all these kind friends could only know how much 
happiness it brought me, they would feel repaid for 
the long dusty trip ; for, the cars following so closely 
one after the other on the way back to New York, 
we were hardly recognizable to each other when we 
reached Seventy-second Street and Broadway, 
where again many motor enthusiasts and reporters 
greeted us. 

At the banquet given me in San Francisco, a 
silver plate was presented to me by the Locomobile 
Company of San Francisco in commemoration of 
my trip ; and upon my arrival in New York, I was 
presented by the Locomobile Company of New 
York with another silver plate as a souvenir of the 
trip, and my safe arrival home. 

Then on for a merry run to Trenton, New 
Jersey, where I found my home, that had been 
closed for over a year, opened by my faithful 
employees. Everything being in readiness, Albert 
soon prepared a nice home supper for us, and here 
I must say good-by to my readers until we meet 
again on new roads. 

The Trenton Daily Gazette, under date of 
August 17, 1910, published the following: 

WORLD TOUR IN AUTO COMPLETED BY 
MRS. FISHER 

Distinguished Woman Home From Remarkable Journey 
Ahead of Schedule Time. Receives Official Greeting 

With the distinction of being the first woman who has ever 
made a trip around the world, depending on an automobile for 

357 



A WOMAN'S WORLD TOUR IN A MOTOR 

land travellings Mrs. Clark Fisher at seven o'clock last evening 
reached her home at 125 East Hanover Street. 

The famous woman was escorted from New York by repre- 
sentatives of the Automobile Club of America, and the car in 
which she made the long journey kept the others going at a 
lively pace all the way over. 

Common Council last evening paid Mrs. Fisher a well- 
deserved compliment by adopting, on motion of Edward C. 
Bullock, of the First Ward, the following resolution : 

" Resolved, That the congratulations of this body be ex- 
tended to Mrs. Clark Fisher, who to-night arrived home after 
having completed in her automobile a tour of the world, during 
which the distinguished woman spread the name of Trenton 
products in many foreign climes." 

All the employees of Fisher & Norris anvil works, owned 
by Mrs. Fisher, were at her home when she reached it, and 
gave her a most cordial reception. Great bunches of American 
Beauty roses from prominent business concerns stood in the 
parlors, and many small clusters of garden flowers brought by 
the workmen were there. Mrs. Fisher was received by Austin 
B. Snider, formerly cashier of the Trenton Banking Company, 
who is now her financial adviser, and Franklin Hendrickson, 
the manager of her manufacturing plant. 

After greetings had been exchanged, the men of the anvil 
plant departed, and an hour later Mrs. Fisher was enjoying 
her supper, with her feet under her own table, for the first time 
since July 17th last, when she started on her remarkable tour. 

When asked if she was glad to be home, she said: " Yes, I 
am; for after all there is no place like America, and I love it, 
and I shall enjoy settling down to work once more, and am 
prepared to start in just as soon as I get my 
unpacked." 



APPENDIX 
FOREIGN TOURING 

IT has been suggested in the interest of the in- 
creasingly large number of Americans tour- 
ing abroad every year, that a few practical 
hints might prove invaluable to those who contem- 
plate such a trip for the first time. 

Plan Your Tour in Advance, — With the coun- 
tries you desire to traverse as a basis, lay out an 
itinerary of the cities and places of interest which 
it is desired to include in your visit. It will be of 
material assistance to have at hand for this purpose 
a selection of some of the many fine publications on 
foreign touring. A complete catalogue can be 
secured through booksellers. 

Among the best of the maps may be mentioned 
the Bartholomew strip maps of England, the 
Routes Taride for Paris and vicinity (published 
also for Italy and Switzerland) , the Carte Routiere 
Dion-Bouton as a good general road map of France 
and Mittelbach's road maps of Germany and Aus- 
tria. Good hand-books are published by several 
of the tire manufacturers and are easily obtainable. 
Le Guide Taride is a guide book that is regarded 
as excellent for touring in France. 

The automobile clubs of France, Italy and Swit- 
zerland publish excellent guide books, and member- 

359 



APPENDIX 

ship in these clubs will enable the tourist to secure 
copies of their books. Membership in the Touring 
Club of France costs six francs and can be secured 
by presenting certificate of membership in the 
A. C. A., or a letter from the A. A. A., certifying 
membership therein. The Touring Club of France 
arranges for a deposit to cover customs, duties, etc., 
by a " Triptyque." Deposit is returned at the end 
of the tour. Thus all duties are paid in advance, 
eliminating delays and trouble. 

The Association Generale of France also offers 
service to the tourist. Membership is ten francs a 
year. Application blanks may be secured from 
the A. C. A. or the A. A. A. This Association can 
furnish chauffeurs and has the power to issue 
licenses. The matter of license is very important 
in France. 

The A. A. A. maintains reciprocal arrangements 
with the Automobile Association of London, and 
the Motor Union of Great Britain and Ireland, 
whereby these bodies extend certain courtesies and 
certain information upon presentation of A. A. A. 
membership cards. Members of the A. C. A. are 
able to secure cards of introduction to the Royal 
Automobile Club in order to secure information 
in planning trips in Europe. 

Before starting, obtain a letter from the manu- 
facturer of the car, giving the name of the maker, 
model (year), style of car, car number, color of 
body and chassis, make of tires, number of seats 

360 



APPENDIX 

( places ) , weight, value, number of motor, number 
of cylinders, motive power, horse power, and the 
owner's name and address. 

Shipment of the car may be placed in the hands 
of some reliable custom-house broker in New York, 
or wherever the point of departure may be. He 
can take care of many details including the crate, 
which should be of the " knock down " variety, and 
ordinarily costing from $40 to $65. He can also 
pay the ocean freight and other charges, all for a 
lump sum. The rates for ocean freight are cheap 
from Boston and Philadelphia. All charges, in- 
cluding freight (ocean), boxing, dock charges, and 
customs charges, from New York to Liverpool, 
amount to about $108. 

The owner's car must be registered at the Custom 
House in New York, or other point of departure, 
to obtain outward bound clearance. Before return- 
ing to America the owner must obtain from the 
American Consul at the point of departure, an 
inward bound clearance, and make a declaration 
before him that the car was exported from America. 
Shipping the car through a customs broker, how- 
ever, obviates this trouble. 

Pamphlets explaining methods of shipment can 
be obtained from the express companies. 

It is well to carry one or more of the various 
forms of automobile insurance. 



y 



